PRINT: Rock Climb Left Dihedral aka Dihedral 1 aka First Dihedral, Grand Junction Area

Left Dihedral aka Dihedral 1 aka First Dihedral

5.9, Trad, 2 pitches,

Avg: 2.9 from 67 votes
FA: Harvey T. Carter
Colorado > Grand Junction… > Colorado Nation… > Monument Canyon

Description

This is the right-facing dihedral at the Side Areas at area 1. A clean finger and hand crack crack offers good jams up the ramp to the chains. This route's first pitch and the other dihedral are good warmups for getting used to the sandstone in the area.

Pitch one goes at ~5.8+.

P2: per ??: The second pitch goes free at about 11+/12-.

Protection

Standard rack with an extra #1 and 1.5 Friend. Also a #4 Friend. 50m rope to lower off fixed anchor.

For P2 per ??: The thin sections protect reasonably well with micro stoppers (Metolius offsets are quite useful). A single set of Camalots #0.1-2, a single set of offset micro stoppers, and a couple extra hand size pieces will suffice for protection (for free climbing it).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The reluctant leader.

Kati enjoying the climb on a beautiful day!

The Captain leading D1 on the Slabs.

The vistas from this area are amazing. Jim is cleaning the route on rappel.

Rick Sanders in Dihedral #1.

untitled

Matt trying to free climb the moves on the 2nd aid pitch of the 1st Dihedral route.

Dihedral #1 (5.8 - 1st pitch).

Lay'n it back!

The British Invasion on her hardest tick to date.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Frank Stock

Quality route-what you see is what you get from the ground. Low angle makes it easier than it appears though. The right angling 5.9 diagonal crack just to the left that finishes directly abouve the left dihedral is very worth doing although the start has a bit of dubious rock. Jun 5, 2001

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado

This is also known as Dihedral #1 from the old Desert Rock guide. It has 2 pitches. Done by Harvey T Carter. 2nd pitch is 10+ A3. Thin, Challenging, inviting. Mar 9, 2002

Doug Redosh
Golden, CO

Known as First Dihedral in Desert Rock III. Can rap from chains 50' feet up. Harder than it looks, with the first of 2 cruxes @ 30'. Protects well and solid rock. Apr 18, 2003

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

5.9

[Fun] intro to [the] area and rock there. The route [is] good on the bottom pitch, and looks good on the top 5.10 section, although I did not do that, and apparently nobody else does either. The book claims A3 to get to that, but in reality it looks like 2 bomber cams to a perfect cam-hook crack for maybe 5 meters. A3? No. I wish I'd taken a few cam- hooks or Crack'n-ups on the trip to enable me to go up for the top of this one. May 9, 2005

Ben Boykin
Cheyenne, WY

5.9

First pitch only. Dang this was hard for me. Didn't keep my feet high enough so I was struggling all the way. Hate liebacks, so I guess I was asking for trouble: Climbed it as a thin hands/fingers crack. Don't do that! Lieback the thing, jam when it opens up for you, & rest.

Beautiful route. Mar 27, 2007

Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co

The second pitch goes clean at C2. Bring some small nuts and cams and two large Cam Hooks. Watch out for the loose blocks up top. The anchors are are in good condition. A 70 meter rope with stretch makes you to the ground barely. Oct 21, 2008

Mikelsons Mikelsons
Boulder, CO

5.7+

This is a beautiful line and it must be climbed. I lead it and it's solid 5.7. There's not much variety in the moves - just layback the whole thing. There are at least two good rests. If you're in this area, climb this one! Oct 28, 2009

Cameron Turner
Eagle

5.8+

Good route, good gear, do it :) Apr 29, 2015

Zero is my Hero

5.9

The first pitch is such a great climb! For gear, it chews up BD-C4 0.3 - 0.5s. I brought triples in these sizes. I think singles of other sizes up to a #3 would sew this climb up! Have fun! Oct 5, 2020

j mo
n az

Could not disagree more with Zero on the gear beta. 0.75s are the key. Start with a 0.5 then 2-3 0.75s, 1 x 0.4, and 1 x#3. After the 3, you can throw a 0.2, #1, or another 0.4 at it depending on where you want to place. Mar 13, 2022