PRINT: Climb Right Side, Boulder

Right Side

V5, Boulder,

Avg: 3 from 20 votes
FA: [Pat Ament]
Colorado > Boulder > Flagstaff > Red Wall

Description

This is one of Flag's classic hard problems, very height-dependent. Start with your left hand in the notorious sloping dish that is the right handhold for the [Eric Varney] route. (I use the crimp on the bottom of this dish) right hand in a little pocket. Smear your right foot in a slippery pod, and make a large reach for a shitty crystal, then bump again for a good obvious pod. It is a classic problem that should make even seasoned boulderers think twice.

Protection

Cheater stones.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ben C. on the right side.

My wife Caolan MacMahon took this photo of me on the regular right side problem.

Me gusta bailar.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Adam Brink
trying to get to Sardinia

No offense, but V6 and V7 for shorter people? Are you kidding? I've seen shorter people walk this line and heard no talk of it being as hard as just right. I know problems are different grades for different people but V7, or even V6, seems a bit much. This is a tricky, technical V4, it shouldn't feel easy no matter what your height. Nov 22, 2002

Patrick Vernon
Grand Junction, CO

I didn't submit the first comment, but this problem is harder for shorter people.I think it is easier to use the crimp just below the dish, this is the first way I ever did it, whatever the case may be it is a hard problem because it requires technique as well as strength.

-pat Dec 13, 2002

Jeffrey Struck
Portland

To do the "proper" Right Side of Red Wall, must you bump to the good pocket with your right (after pinching the crappy crystal/"edge")? That's the popular beta, but the one and only time I managed to get my ass up this problem is when I crossed with my left to the good pocket (from the dish). I had tried this problem for years...and of course, as the years go by, the holds get slicker & slicker, and the ground continues to erode! Of course, my ego tells me I did the problem, but maybe someone (Pat Ament, Bob Williams, Jim Holloway, et al.!) has a strict notion of the proper sequence... Aug 4, 2007

Nate26 Nowinowski
Portland, OR

Just for the record, I did not think that it was easy because I was tall (6'3"). I couldn't use any of the normal feet without coming up and off the dish. I had to use some very odd foot movements, and it took me about 40 more tries than a V4 usually does. Sep 23, 2007

Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado

Yesterday I did an interesting sit start to this problem. You start down and right on two obvious small crimps, just about where the little retaining wall is by the tree. LH to the 2-finger pocket, RH to a very thin sidepull, LH to the edge under the soap dish, RH to the 2-finger, LH to the soap dish and finish as for the regular problem. V8 at least maybe 9.

In the photo, I am standing on one of the starting crimps with my right foot. Feb 25, 2008