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Not Long For This World
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.7 from 39
votes
Routes in Falls Wall
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Another World (formerly The Fat Raisen Sings) T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Arborist Arms S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bitch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bob's Fib V1 5 |
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Bones S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Chimney Sweep TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Club Cafe TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fear of the Lord V5 6C PG13 |
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Gherkin Spire TR 5.15d 9c 39 XIII- 41 E11 8c V17 9A A5+ |
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Headless Corpse of Roger Henry Floth, The TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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High Road to Antwerp T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Internal Affairs TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Invaders from the North S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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It's Flakey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lactic Tactics T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Not Long For This World S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Out of Arms Reach S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Philologus V2 5+ |
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Raison d'Être T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Rim Job S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Situation I've Created, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Steam Rock Fever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Swinging Sirloin S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown TR TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wall of Gore S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, TR |
| FA: | Chris Drysdale & Elliott Crooks, '86 or '87 |
| Page Views: | 1,323 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Historical seasonal raptor closures with 2023 updates
Details
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Description
This route is pretty cool--a tricky start gains a large pocket just below the small, right-facing dihedral. There is a very thin crack here, but you can't really jam it. Instead, stem up this steep face using holds on all three faces. It would be a dicey lead but not unprotectable.
Protection
RPs, TCUs, and some mid-size Aliens for some pockets down low (or tricams). There are 2 bolts on top of wall for a toprope.
Per Erin O'Brien: the climb is now bolted (3-4?).
Per Erin O'Brien: the climb is now bolted (3-4?).
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