PRINT: Rock Climb Crack of Fear, Lumpy Ridge

Crack of Fear

5.10d, Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II,

Avg: 3.9 from 47 votes
FA: Layton Kor; FFA: Chris Fredericks and Jamie Logan, early 1960s
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Twin Owls

Access Issue: 2024 Partial Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/21/24 Details

From the Denver Post 7/21/24: some of the raptor closures have been lifted, officials announced.

Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.

Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.

Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.

Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)

Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.

Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!

Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:

Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock

Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.

All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.

Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…

When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.

Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.

Description

This is the hardest climb I have ever done. I can offer a first-hand account of the first two pitches only (we rapped due to the onset of darkness). However, the third pitch could not be more obvious, and if you can do the crux second pitch you should have no problems with it, according to my partner who had done the route previously.

Hike up the Gem Lake trail past a huge boulder, and take the left-hand approach path for Bowls of the Owls and Hen and Chickens Rock. The crack is an obvious wide affair, in a nebulous corner, which runs the entire height of the East Owl (shortly right of a prominent, deep chimney which also reaches the top). It is further recognized by a 30 foot pillar (the Rat's Tooth) which must be ascended to reach the crack's base.

P1. Ascend the hand crack on the left side of the pillar (5.9), or take either of two 5.10 finger cracks to the right. Go up the off-width for about 30 feet, then step left onto the face (to avoid too much punishment!) and climb to a belay ledge with bolts (5.9, 80 feet).

P2. Struggle up past a bulging body jam section (crux, old bolts and a #5 Camalot) and then make a difficult undercling to the left. Fight into a 5.10 chimney and belay at bolts soon after its rear (70 feet).

P3. Continue up the crack with more 5.10 OW, though not as hard. Belay or stretch to the summit, then go west to find the descent.

Protection

Bring all the wide gear you and all your friends own! Seriously, most will want at least two #5 Camalots and 2 #4s, and possibly a couple of Big Bros for the 3rd pitch.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Perhaps a descendant of the creature after which Rat Tooth Pillar was named.

The Owls West face routes.

Dean Potter starting up Crack of Fear, early to mid '90s.

Mike Colacino, demonstrating the first rule of offwidth.<br>
Don't offwidth.

Mike Colacino, demonstrating the first rule of offwidth. Don't offwidth.

Luke, not having fun.

Dave's happy to get a foothold, but still about ready to throw up.

A much needed photo of someone facing the "correct" way for proper offwidthing. This section on P2 felt like the crux. You can see Layton's bolts behind and above me, they don't get in the way one…

Keith Higgins adorned with a Durag belays me up the start of Crack of Fear with two home made wooden 4x4 chalks in tow: Elvis and twin (i.e., name withheld for decencies sake) circa 1990. Thankfull…

The crux section of the second pitch.

Near the end of the hard part of the first pitch. Viper (A5) on the left.

Filming on the Crack of Fear August 8, 2002. Unknown party.

Unknown party filming on Crack of Fear Aubust 8, 2002.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Steve Bartlett

I'm too fat to do this! The crux would be easier for skinnier folks, who can keep their hips in the crack as they are easing up towards the beckoning (but still tiny) face holds. This is a masochistic struggle. The climb has unrelenting offwidths/flares/chimneys, and is very sustained. The 5.10d rating is traditional. This sandbagging can backfire. The route was soloed on sight by Derek Hersey, who, after reading the guidebook's "5.10+ 3-star crack" but not knowing anyone who had climbed it, was expecting a real 5.10+ crack, with fist jams etc, kinda like Diving Board. Anyway, he nearly popped his clogs at the crux and could barely walk for several days after, due to grinding a deep puncture wound into his knee. Feb 19, 2002

Bill Wright

I did this route with Dr. Offwidth and I've seen him onsight 5.11 offwidth before. I led the first and third pitches and he led the crux, second pitch. He fell his first time up, lowered back to the belay and tried again. He fell again and decided to just continue up. He's a big guy (6'3", 200 pounds) and for his size there is no way this is 5.10. He is a VERY good offwidth climber.

I found this pitch to be easiest if climbed right side in for halfways up it, then switch to left side in. This does make it more difficult to start the undercling, but it works. The crux would be making this switch. I did it by hanging on the rope! :-)

Three hundred feet of offwidth...This route will seem a lot longer than a normal three pitch route. I took a fall leading the third pitch, but got wedged in the crack further down and didn't weight the rope. The third pitch is much easier than the second pitch and harder than the first, but has some good rests on it and more protection opportunities. May 6, 2002

Dan St John
Castle Rock

Climbed the first and half of the second pitch, then bailed. The first pitch is the hardest 5.9 I have ever done. I have climbed my fair share of 5.10 OW and never wanted to puck like I did on Crack of Fear. The first pitch is honest 5.10 in my book. The second pitch shut me down. I fell out of the crack about the first bolt a couple of times. The old rusted 1/4 inch bolts gives me the willies. Would be a problem if some one replaced the old quarter inch bolts with nice new ones? Aug 26, 2002

Bill Wright

My vote for the hardest 5.9 route in the Boulder area is By Gully on Castle Rock. Especially if you have a big chest (I don't, but my partner did). An equal sandbag is Coffin Crack just to the left. If you don't have huge hands, this route just can't be 5.10! Aug 26, 2002

George Bell
Boulder, CO

My only "attempt" at this route was in 1983, when I was visting the area and a buddy who lived in Boulder suggested we "check it out". Knowing nothing of the route, I foolishly agreed, figuring my friend probably wanted to lead it anyway. We got to the base, and there was a party ahead of us. I thought nothing of this at the time, but it must be rather rare on this route. In this case, it turned out to be a good thing. Some guy was following the first pitch, and man it looked horrendous! He struggled mightily but ended up dangling on the rope, and after he noticed us racking up he asked how many tube chocks we had bought, perhaps hoping to combine forces on the crux pitch.

My buddy was already trying to sucker me into leading the first pitch, and I looked down at the rack to see our largest pro is a #4 Friend and #12 Hex. I shouted this information up and the climber above started laughing hysterically. At this point I started getting worried that maybe this wasn't such a good idea. Needless to say we never left the ground. I don't know what my friend was thinking. Oct 24, 2002

Anonymous Coward

The hardest 5.10 in the universe...hopefully, anyway. I've climbed 5.10 and 5.11 offwidths in Moab, Indian Creek, Vedauwoo, etc., and COF felt considerably harder than any of them. I didn't think the first or third pitches were too sandbaggy, but the crux section on the 2nd pitch is insanely tough to stick to, much less get past. My guidebook shows a 10c move at the undercling just above the 10d crux. That undercling is in fact a thank-god hold, and the 10c move is a complete piece o' cake compared to the crux thrash-fest. In fact, I felt really solid on the whole climb, except for the 8 feet or so that is the crux, which worked me SILLY. Didn't get me too psyched to jump on Peaches and Cream!

Anyway, Crack of Fear is a mega classic, and most definitely a MUST-DO climb. Yes, the crux section is real stiff, but definitely worth it. With modern offwidth pro this is a very safe climb, so you have no excuse! Give it a whirl. All in all, one of the very most satisfying climbs I've ever done (ok, maybe not including Diamond routes), despite my getting swatted around all over the place at the crux. May 18, 2003

Nate Christiansen

I onsight hard double digit and can't even climb the 5.9 first pitch clean? Thats not good. can someone say sandbag? Aug 1, 2003

Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO

First pitch left side in? On TR, I got half way up the smooth section with right side in before I ran out of motivation. I then hung, turned around, and put left side in. That felt a full grade easier. There are occasional good knobs for the right foot, and frequent good knobs for the right hand. Chicken winging and heel-toe seemed much easier than with right side in. Perhaps because the low angle wall is at your back? It was pretty strange getting to the flake left of the crack while facing out. Bring same small wires to back up the pin at the flake. There is a very good nut below the pin--about 1/4". Aug 10, 2003

Anonymous Coward

I'm sure its hard for the grade, but didn't Layton free all but the undercling move, first go, no modern gear, etc, etc. I think it tells about this in Climb! Sep 22, 2003

Jamie Logan

The grade of this route was never an attempt to sandbag anyone. When we did the first free ascent in 1966 5.10 was the hardest grade there was. T2 was 5.9 and the Grand Giraffe was 5.8. It would be fine with me if someone wanted to give this climb a modern grade ( I have done it a number of times, but never since big cams were around and would rate it hard 11 or maybe 12A). The bolts date from 1963 or so and are not very long. Layton used them to aid the dificult section to the roof which we used to protect with an angle driven straight up. Placing and removing this pin was the crux at that time. I would not trust the bolts. Jul 17, 2004

L. Hamilton

5.10d

On one hand, it would be fun if Jim's suggestion were followed and the route upgraded to 5.12a -- making me a 5.12 climber back in '73 (and Jim in '66). But honestly, I don't think it's that hard. As Jim mentioned, Grand Giraffe was 5.8 at the time, as was Hollow Flake crack in the Valley; climbs like By Gully, Coffin Crack and the Umph Slot were all 5.9, and many of us just expected to thrash on 5.10 offwidth. Let's keep the old grade, for a sense of perspective on how far modern ratings have drifted. Jul 17, 2004

Bernard Gillett

Hi Jim and Larry - perhaps you guys can help clear up a bit of the confused history on this climb. Jim, you say you did Crack of Fear in 1966. Pat Ament puts the date at 1967 in his History of Free Climbing book, and I recall a discussion with him where he was pretty convinced 1967 was the correct year. Do you remember which year it was? Larry - do you remember our discussion about Twister, right next to Crack of Fear? You said the Fricke guide listed the route as having a free ascent in 1966, and you proceeded to free climb it in the early 1970s. But Twister was freed after Crack of Fear (yes, Jim?), so Fricke must have that wrong. Jim, do you know the year you freed Twister? Is it possible Larry beat you to it by accident?

Regarding the rating of Crack of Fear: I can't see it at hard 5.11 or 5.12a. I freed it on my first try (following my brother's lead), and led it all free a week later, and this was back when I had no more than a handful of 5.11 leads under my belt. Maybe 5.11a, but I think 5.10d is fair. It's impossible to compare it to the ratings on bolted climbs... OWs always require more caloric output than your typical 5.12a bolt climb (though I don't think that makes it more difficult). Perhaps if we went back to the day where all you did was a steady diet of crack climbing, Crack of Fear wouldn't seem so bad. Agreed that it feels god-awful desperate after a month of bolt clipping.

If anyone replaces those bolts (see Dan St John's comments) at the crux, I would vote for moving the higher one to the wall on the left. As it is, clipping that old piece of junk on the right wall serves only to tangle the rope up beyond reason. Might have been the right place for a bolt while aiding, but a bolt on the left would make more sense fo Jul 25, 2004

L. Hamilton

5.10d

I doubt that Ray & I got the Twister FFA, but I'll let Jim address the 'when' question. In the meantime, this photo I posted on Rockclimbing.com adds another little-known but amazing historical note about Twister: rockclimbing.com/photos.php… Jul 26, 2004

Steve Annecone
Boulder, CO

5.11a

Having done many offwidths in Yosemite and Vedauwoo in this grade range, I'd rate it as 5.11a, as it is harder than any 10d offwidth I can think of around here or elsewhere. The route Cream in Yosemite is rated as 11a, and I think Crack of Fear is harder. But 10d is a classic, very hard rating for offwidths so I guess I wouldn't argue that rating too much, it's close. I strongly agree with Bernard's assessment above... if those bolts are ever replaced, they [belong] on the left side.... it was very difficult clipping those bolts behind your head with your right side in the crack. Jul 26, 2004

Henry Lester
Boulder, CO

I agree with Steve A. and other similar comments and having followed the route a couple of times but having failed at leading a couple of times, I feel that the insecurity combined with the normal exertion associated with OW is being confused by some with technical difficulty. What exactly is the situation for replacing bolts on this route? Although it is clearly well protected with a 5 Camalot, I, for one, would enjoy and appreciate new bolts. Jul 26, 2004

Jamie Logan

I am positive that we climbed the Crack of Fear in the summer of 1966, probably in July. I led the FFA of Twister in August of 1966. I remember climbing into the first crux with no protection and thinking I couldn't climb back down so I climbed up into the crack where I placed a bolt. I was supposed to be at a CU PE class in rock climbing (summer school) and got a C in the class for missing class to climb Twister. Jul 31, 2004

L. Hamilton

5.10d

That's a great story about the PE class, Jim! Glad to see the record settled regarding Twister -- and that Fricke had it right, as we assumed in 1972 when Ray Jardine and I hiked up there. Twister was my first 5.10 lead, a two-pitch epic that I still remember well. Aug 1, 2004

Anonymous Coward

Ich will ihn Oct 17, 2005

Wade Griffith

5.10d

Thought the first pitch was definitely 5.9, good edges outside of the crack. I agree with the traditional ratings, just need to be a solid 5.10 OW leader. The crux that I fell on was the undercling after the OW on the second pitch due to the pump factor. Compared to Vedauwoo ratings it is on. Don't think rebolting would be appropriate on this one since cams are so bomber, keep the adventure! May 7, 2006

Mark Hammond
Eldorado Springs, CO

5.10d

I placed a #4 Bigbro on the 2nd and 3rd pitches, it was nice to have.
Not sure if a #3 would work. Also, the new #6 Camalot was soooopa!
Seemed like a better size for this than the old #5. I had 1 of each.
I agree with the 5.10d rating. You have to want it, but it is not technically that difficult.
Mark
PS- I vote for removing the old bolts. Or at least the 1st one on the crux pitch with that old ?? hanger. It appears ready to slice a falling climber to ribbons as you slide past it. Aug 20, 2007

Jason Haas
Broomfield, CO

I climbed this route for the second time today, leading all three pitches. For gear both times, I placed a light rack up to #2 Camalot and then 2 new #5 Camalots, 1 old #5 Camalot, and 1 new #6 Camalot. I second my alias' comments about the new #6 Camalot being essential. If I could of had ideal gear, I would of had an another #6 Friend or #6 Camalot instead of the old #5 Camalot and I would of taken a #4 Big Bro, because no cams fit for a long way on pitch three. Absolutely classic route, a must do for any offwidth afficionado!

I'm not necessarily in favor of replacing the old bolts on Pitch 2, but I wouldn't mind the old ones staying, since I did like them for helping to keep the rope out of the crack while leading. Just my two sense on the matter. The ancient bolt anchor atop pitch 2 could stand to be replaced though. Sep 9, 2007

Bob Rotert
Broomfield

Just to weigh in on the bolt question. The old bolts have been there too long... I think it would be a great service if someone would replace them so they are reliable protection. Otherwise, they might as well not be there.... It does not make sense to me to remove them just because there is larger protection available today. Although, I can understand why some might lobby for that. Not everyone has big bros or double/ triple #5 & 6 cams. Not only were the bolts used for the FFA it also makes the climb doable without having to necessarily borrow protection or climb with a rack of big cams & big bros. Which is kind of nice. They were there for the first ascent & first free ascent, chopping them would be ugly & the holes & bolts are there now.... They should be made trustworthy.

On the rating subject. I would agree with some of the above posts. This climb is pretty accurately rated within a couple of letter grades as it is. Climbing an OW is totally different from 5.12 sport & requires totally different skills. If you think you should be able to cruise a 10 or 11 OW because you can climb 12 face or crack you've got some learning to do. Get on some OWs, and I think you will be school'd on this subject.

Amazing & righteous FFA for the era. There were some very "Bad Ass" climbers back then and Chris & Jim are certainly in that category!! Sep 16, 2007

Mike D
Fort Collins, CO

My opinion would be to remove the old bolts at the crux but not replace them as solid cams now protect this section, if you can climb it you probably own the rack required. Hard for OW 10d I thought Nov 8, 2007

John Korfmacher
Fort Collins, CO

Derek Hersey, when asked about the climb, is supposed to have simply replied, "Horrifying." I'll take his word for it. Feb 11, 2008

Bob Rotert
Broomfield

It's good to get some consensus opinions when talking about bolt removals and altering a route in some way that has existed for many years. And no offense meant to anyone on this post because I don't know who has or has not done this. However, I think there should be a caveat for posts on a route bolt removal request, moving a bolt is a different issue. But to have a "fair" assessment only folks that have actually lead the route without using the bolts should/would have the merit & reference to suggest the bolts should be removed. If someone hasn't done that, I don't think they should be posting a suggestion to remove the bolts. Point being, without having done that you might not have enough of a "true" perspective to suggest the bolts should be removed.

To have fair assessment. If you have done it without using the bolts, I think you should say so. But if you clipped/used the existing bolts or have only followed it you probably shouldn't be suggesting removal of bolts that were used for your ascent. Jul 16, 2009

Lenore Sparks
Bishop, CA

This climb is sweet because you don't have to wait in line for it. Aug 14, 2009

slim

5.10d

That's pretty funny because both times I have done the route there were 2 other parties on it. Actually, the first time I did it, there were 2 ahead of us, and then 2 or 3 parties showed up after us, but decided to get on something else. Aug 14, 2009

steve shea

Steve Kentz and I did it in '72 or '73. We had custom tube chocks. Great route! A confidence builder which took us to the next level. Apr 27, 2012

Greg Cameron

Just did this again yesterday after more then 20 years. I think the rating is spot-on. Maybe one of the problems is that all of the pictures here show right-side-in. It's much easier if you're left-side-in. In fact, you should be left-side-in for all but the last 10 feet or so of the first pitch and the first 10 or 15 feet of the second (up to the bolt). With modern gear, 2 No. 5 and two No. 6 Camalots are sufficient, and you will not need to clip into the crummy bolts. You'll need to walk the cams for sections, of course.

By the way, after Turnkorner on Sundance, this is the best route at Lumpy IMO. Aug 4, 2013

topher donahue
Nederland, CO

Please don't replace the old bolts at the crux. They are a monument to Layton's first ascent, and it's great to look up there and see how rad it was that he was somehow able to place them, free climbing most of the route in between the occasional bong, a couple of bolts and pins. With modern gear, clipping the bolts is not only unnecessary but probably INCREASES the length of any fall because you'd fall out of the crack onto the bolt. Big cams slide right up the crack, giving a perfect top rope all the way so if you fall you only sag onto the rope. The rope runs fine in the crack (remember the crack is 8 inches wide and the rope is only 10mm wide), and cams provide overhead gear all the way through the section with the bolts. Look at them as an in-situ museum on climbing in the old days, not actual protection. The climb is hard, but with big cams, leading the crux section is a top rope experience. Please don't replace the old bolts at the crux. Aug 14, 2016

MauryB
Boulder, CO

5.12

Gnarly. Jesse Huey got the onsight, proud.

We went to the top, which I wouldn't recommend. Unremarkable climbing at the expense of a full walk off as opposed to nice ring bolts to rap from the top of P1 and P2. Sep 22, 2016

KT Cassidy

Hey there climbed COF in 1979 or '80. Led 2nd pitch, so I feel okay giving input. Although I'm an old fart now, still hoping to get back on some climbs. I have old gear, and I don't want to buy or borrow or carry a bunch of big new gear. I'm open to replacing the old bolts (or bolt , don't remember), but please don't just chop them. There is an aesthetic pleasure in the simplicity of the old way. Yeah, I know, if I get up there again I'll be wishin' for the big cammies!!, but I'm hoping really and truly that we can update the bolt at the most. Thanks for listening. Sep 16, 2019

George Bracksieck

I was up at the Owls recently, scoping out clean-aid routes to do before the nesting closure. I wondered if I could rap down after Viper/King Cobra without having to top out. So I checked out this page for anchor situations and read these stories. I’ll add mine:

In 1976, Doug Hill knew L. Buddie Guthrie, who was a strong young climber visiting from Virginia He was just out of high school, climbed in the Southeast, and wasn’t experienced with wide cracks. Doug must have suggested the Crack because he didn’t want to lead it, and neither did I. Jesse, the name he’s gone by since, led all three pitches, using my tube chocks in the wide. He had to hang in a few places but made a great effort. Doug and I followed. On the third pitch, I hammered out a fixed tube that was buried under a pile of dry pigeon shit, using a loose rock. I gave it to “Buddie” for his hard work.

In 1981, I led Mike Endicott up all three pitches. My rack was a single set of tubes, wires, and Friends. I had a thick chest, thin waist, and short feet; I climbed with my right side in, until making the crux reach with my right hand into the undercling. At that point, my body was completely horizontal, with my right heel/toe thrashing for purchase deep in the maw, while being careful not to dislodge my deeply placed 6” tube.

I didn’t clip the bolt, which was in the way of palming down with my left hand. Above the bolt was a good edge to palm, which ended up damaging a nerve in my hand, which took months to heal. After I had inched up high enough to get a jam in the undercling with my right, I was eventually able to shuffle my feet up enough so I could get my left hand jammed. I pulled into a full undercling/lieback and gunned up the leaning crack, stopping to place a 2.5 Friend. I’m glad that I didn’t have to hammer in pitons. If I could free it, it couldn’t be harder than 10d. Jan 13, 2021

Milt Strickler
Louisville CO

I climbed Crack of Fear (or at least tried to) in 1989 with Rob Kelman. Rob is a Vedauwoo veteran with lots of chimney/OW skill. We had all the advantages offered by modern offwidth protection, sticky rubber shoes, chalk, etc., but we were both shut down by P2 and used several points of aid. (Both of us did fine on P1 and P3).

The interesting point here is that the day before this COF fiasco, I led all of the Diving Board (5.11a off width crux) with Paul Kunasz with no falls or rests. The very next day I wasn't even close to doing COF P2 with a toprope. Had it seemed close to doable for me, I would have returned to try to climb it all in good style. In retrospect I might have done better had I been rested and not fatigued from the previous day's strenuous outing, but in any case I never returned to COF.

I really can't rate something I couldn't do, but COF P2 seemed MUCH harder than Diving Board, Naked Edge P4, Simian's Way, Supersqueeze, etc., all of which I led first try. The 5.10+ OW pitch on Captain Beyond seemed like an easy stroll to me compared to COF P2. A year before this COF attempt, I followed a 5.11+ flared overhanging chimney in Indian Creek. Very insecure/strenuous but I made it. COF seemed harder than this. All I can say is that COF seemed like an even bigger sandbag at 5.10d than By Gully at Castle Rock is for 5.9.

Incidentally, George Bracksieck says above that Crack of Fear can't be harder than 5.10d if he can lead it. He's selling himself short, I think. He and I have climbed a lot together since the 1970s, and he's by far the best chimney/OW climber I know. Jun 26, 2023