PRINT: Rock Climb Monkey Wrench, Golden

Monkey Wrench

5.11c, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),

Avg: 2 from 117 votes
FA: Alan Nelson/Kurt Smith, 1990
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Anarchy Wall

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!

Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31

Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…

Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 1 (MM 270, W of Tunnel 1). Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 2 (E of Tunnel 2). In 2016, the closure WAS lifted June 9 for ONLY the 2016 season, per Eric Krause, JeffCo OS Ranger. Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.

Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:

Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves

Description

Personally, this is my least favorite line on the wall. It climbs up a sloping shelf (just left of the center of the wall) to a crack for a few moves, but then it becomes an awkward slopefest. There are definitely better lines on the wall.

Protection

4 bolts / 2 bolt anchor (coldshuts).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Out with the [[Old]]106552036 in with the New. 9-22-09.

Out with the ?Old? in with the New. 9-22-09.

Sam on Monkey Wrench.

At the third bolt.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado

Having done this 30-40 times, I have to second Alan's verdict. Aug 28, 2001

Nate Weitzel

5.11c

Based on the above comments, I tried route again and will now disagree with myself. This is quite a good route and I agree that it seems to be good training for the other routes on the wall. I guess I had a bad day when I tried it the first time around! Thanks for the comments and stimulus to get on this one again....... Sep 22, 2001

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado

This was my kind intro 11c sport route a bit back. Keeps your interest in such a short bit of climbing. Beware, Brian, on his first lead of this route, snapped off a good hold before the 1st bolt and had to be spotted down. Have fun but Be Careful. Mar 5, 2002

Sam Benedict
Denver, CO

5.11c

This is a pretty rad line. In good weather the slopers are extremely positive, almost like jugs. most of the climbing is kind of powerful and fairly obvious, with some trickery right of the ground and right before the anchors. It also serves as a much friendlier warm up than Power Trip. Oct 19, 2007

Jay Samuelson
Colorado

5.11+

I thought this route was pretty fun, good warm up. Apr 28, 2008

Harald Harb
Dumont

5.11c PG13

I started climbing the Anarchy wall this summer. Found Monkey Wrench fun and challenging. Once you figure out the feet on the first rail, it's great, working to the top ledge another left moving rail but shorter, great gymnastic change of pace climb. Oct 28, 2009

Brent Walker
Denver, CO

I replaced the biners up top with a couple of my own, as they were getting dangerously worn. They won't last all that long, but I'm poor, and it was all I had. May 27, 2012