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Dyno Monkey

5.11c, Sport, TR,  Avg: 1.8 from 19 votes
FA: Chris Alber, 2000
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Sport Park > Visor
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Description

This route is on The Visor, which is a small, overhanging wall at the top end of the Surprising Crag. The route takes the steepest line possible up the left side of the wall, connecting some obvious jugs. It starts about 10 or 15 feet from the left edge of the wall. NOTE: this is the most heavily modified piece of rock I have ever seen or could ever imagine. There is no way on Earth that the jugs on this thing could have even started out as natural holds. All are completely comfortized for your dynoing pleasure. That said, it is fun, and the huge dyno is great for photo-ops. Also, the grade is probably more like a mid-5.11 (other sources call it 12b, however), but if you're short, it is more difficult.

Protection

6 quickdraws (including 2 for the anchor). All bolts are brand new and totally bomber, and there are two rap bolts at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Coming down after a long day at the Sport Park.
[Hide Photo] Coming down after a long day at the Sport Park.
Nick Strohecker preparing for the big move.
[Hide Photo] Nick Strohecker preparing for the big move.
Pete Franzen climbing manufactured jugs on Dyno Monkey.
[Hide Photo] Pete Franzen climbing manufactured jugs on Dyno Monkey.
Pete Franzen on the crux final move of Dyno Monkey
[Hide Photo] Pete Franzen on the crux final move of Dyno Monkey
If only my arm was 6 inches longer...
[Hide Photo] If only my arm was 6 inches longer...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Well, it's probably a number grade too high. A similar, but harder route at Smith Rocks (Toxic), is rated 11b. Jul 6, 2001
[Hide Comment] Great route and movement! A little soft though...wouldn't call it 12b, but well worth doing! Feb 26, 2004
TBlom
5.11b
[Hide Comment] The only 12 I've ever been to the anchors on. Sport Park is also home of the only 11d I've redpointed. Oh well, still had a great time on the route. A fun TR because no one gets to dog around after they fall off. I love huge jugs up overhangs, too bad they are man made. I'll do it again for sure though. Aug 29, 2004
Mark Rolofson
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] The route has some very positive holds. This climb is more about power & strength, less about subtle technique. Dynos do require technique & practice to perfect. Sport Park is a great place for that. The crux dyno is pretty wild & finishing it out is still powerful. A fun, short, very overhanging route.

I can see how someone would call this .11d, but there is a point where downrating a climb is really a great way to flex your ego & draw attention to yourself. Calling this route about the same grade as Flying Machines (.11a/b) is pretty silly. I can think of numerous people who can climb most .11c or d routes but would struggle to send this route. Clearly ratings are subjective. If dynoing & hanging by one arm with feet dangling is your thing, then this route is for you.

There are 4 bolts / 2 Fixe rings on this route. Best advice is don't try to clip the anchor until you are on the long horizontal jug off to the right. Jul 28, 2017