Bryson Slothower Portland, OR

[Hide Comment] Does anyone place a nut under the roof of this route. I have placed one before but don't realy think it's necessary. I've heard that the route gets its name from the placement though...anyone? I thought this route was rated 10.c until I saw it listed here, that makes me feel better... Dec 14, 2001

Scott Duke

[Hide Comment] The classic of Table! It's an 11 if you follow the crack to the left, then traverse under the roof to the heel hook. If you blast straight up the bolts, it's 12ish! A nut up in the horizontal crack will better protect a fall, but the rope drag sucks. No TR'ing here. Lead it, baby! Oct 15, 2002

chris deulen Denver-ish, CO   5.12a

[Hide Comment] There's a mysterious hidden crimp out to the far right on the cruxy face, for the sportsters, that may come in handy for some. Otherwise, better work on Helicopter for awhile before testing your crimping skills here. May 24, 2006

Sam Benedict Denver, CO   5.11c

[Hide Comment] This is no doubt one of the best routes at the Table, if not THE best. It has been a project of mine since I started climbing, and is one hell of a testpiece. It is fair to say it's harder than 11c due to the baby-bottom like texture of most of the holds, and the very beta-intensive nature of the route. But if you put everything together smoothly (on a cool day), it can actually feel like 11c. Dec 14, 2006

Ken Trout Golden, CO

[Hide Comment] Guy Lords was watching me dangle under the roof while taking a break from his Lying On The Ground project. I proposed placing a nut under the roof. Guy pointed out that nuts were for lightweights and rodents, and then came up with the route name. Neither of us ever placed the nut because we found a beta trick. I found the trick on top rope, not onsighting. For too many years I'd see good climbers flash the face-crux and then get stymied by the clip over the roof. That is exactly what I'd intended; that this climb would require hang-dogging to send. We'll I don't like how I used to think, so there is a new bolt in the roof now. The loose bolts at the lower crux are fixed too. I not really sure what to rate this, but I'm glad people like it. Nov 28, 2007

Mikeco Highlands Ranch CO

[Hide Comment] Straight up the bolts, through the crimpy face feels like full value 5.11c. There are no true recovery-style rests on the thing, just less pumpage after you get under the roof on the bigger holds. The roof is comparatively easy if you ask me - you are just drained by the time you get there. Nov 10, 2008

Jay Samuelson Colorado   5.11+

[Hide Comment] This is a great route. Tricky, fun face climbing up to a rest, then a fun roof to pull. Feb 25, 2009

Jason Antin Golden, CO   5.11c/d

[Hide Comment] Full value for sure. Really enjoyed this line! Apr 10, 2011

Bruce Hildenbrand Silicon Valley/Boulder

[Hide Comment] Pretty simple fix for that bad looking bolt. Take a wrench and hammer up there and loosen the nut 1 or 2 turns then tap the bolt back flush with the rock and re-tighten the nut. Be careful when you re-tighten the nut that you don't apply too much torque. You might also want to re-position the hanger so that it receives minimal downward torque in a fall. Feb 12, 2012

Jay Samuelson Colorado   5.11+

[Hide Comment] Good idea, Bruce, thanks for the tip. I'll give it a try if I make it up there soon. Feb 13, 2012

Jay Samuelson Colorado   5.11+

[Hide Comment] I tried going up there and just pounding the bolt back flush and re-tightening it, but this didn't work at all. Within only a few bounce tests, the bolt had pulled even further out than it was before. This bolt definitely needed to go. I replaced it with a Rawl 5 piece and a new Fixe hanger. Feb 23, 2012

Bruce Hildenbrand Silicon Valley/Boulder

[Hide Comment] Jay, Sometimes you can retighten them, sometimes not. My guess is that the bolt has been fallen on sufficient enough times that the hole was now bad. Good call on the replacement. Feb 23, 2012

Jay Samuelson Colorado   5.11+

[Hide Comment] Hey Bruce, that's what I figured. Still glad for the tip, might save me some money and work in the future. But yeah, that bolt had been beaten to death. Feb 23, 2012

Kris Holub Boulder, Colorado

[Hide Comment] Is this route supposed to go straight up the bolts or left of the bolts with a rightwards traverse under the roof? The way the bolts are placed it feels off-route to stay left (reachy clips), but all the chalked up holds are on the left side and non-existent holds on the right make it seem harder than 11c to fire up the bolts. Sep 10, 2012

Andy Riley Barcelona, ES

[Hide Comment] In my opinion, following the bolt line of Mr. Squirrel is more difficult than .11c. It was much more difficult for me than "Death of Innocents," "Lying on the Ground," and "Unknown Route (Brown Cloud);" all of these routes are N. Table routes that are rated 5.11d. I would say that it was on par or slightly easier than Mrs. Hen (12a) and Chicken Dance (12a). Feb 17, 2014

Seth Hogan Frisco, Co

[Hide Comment] This is the most difficult 11 I've done so far at North Table. The roof wasn't the crux IMHO. Dec 5, 2016

Brent Kelly Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] Sharing a reminder to brush off your tick marks when you’re done for the day. This one is super fun to suss out! But slightly less super fun when every substantial hold has a big white chalk splotch next to it. "All right, you guys know the rules. I want a good clean fight. Let's get it on!" Jan 22, 2020

Dave Stainback Arvada

[Hide Comment] It appears this route's roof will need to be lead with a nut placement under the roof (as the name suggests). Walking back from a warm day of sunny cragging this past weekend, I saw someone on lead have to take before clipping the bolt above the overhang. Spectating from the trail 150-200' away, I witnessed what appeared to be a nut placement pop off and the bolt well below the overhang caught the climber's fall. Suspecting the climber had lead it with a nut placement in the roof, I excitedly ran up to converse with the group only to see that the bolt had blown. Disappointing as I've been wanting to redpoint this route before it gets too warm this season. Looks like I'll have to give it a go with a nut placement if so! Mar 20, 2020

Narjit Aujla Denver, CO

[Hide Comment] Can confirm Dave's comment: the roof bolt is gone, and it took me by surprise as I usually can't see it that well from the ground. I assumed it was just shaded. A nut or small cam would help as a fall clipping the next bolt could be uncomfortable with the wrong swing. Jun 6, 2020

Charlie Martz Fort Collins

[Hide Comment] As of 9/27, a glue-in bolt has been installed in the roof. There was some caution tape on the first bolt that said the bolt would be safe to climb on 9/27. I took the caution tape down with me. Sep 27, 2020

Aleks Gro

[Hide Comment] A video for those interested: youtu.be/xKGJ3F_NYig. Apr 10, 2023

Will Tolleson Golden, CO

[Hide Comment] Taking direct line through small crimps feels like solid 12a at the least. Using crack way out left and traversing right is about 11b. It is too bad there is not a better clipping hold for 2nd clip, or that bolt could've been moved further right to deter people from using the crack, but it is what it is, hence the 11c grade arising from many people taking the easy road, that should really be 11b. Really sweet line either way you do it. Perhaps for climbs like this that have obvious variations, the variation should be listed as a separate climb, so that grading can be reliable. Mar 13, 2024