Richard M. Wright Lakewood, CO

[Hide Comment] After a certain point and after a certain number of burns through a route, there comes a point when one justifiably owns a route, and now I own Ten Digit Dialing. Just as QS says, working out the beta on this route is a kick, albeit sometimes frustrating. I won't give it away, but the kicker on this ever so slightly past vertical route lies in figuring out how to dial in the feet and keep them working through the crimps that comprise the crux. This is a brilliant route on which the climbing just gets harder and harder with every move up the wall. Worth ten stars on a three star scale. Three cheers to Alan Nelson for this one, seriously. May 24, 2001

Richard M. Wright Lakewood, CO

[Hide Comment] Without being too patronizing, I would not ascribe old, fat, weak, out of shape..... etc, etc, to the first ascensionist of Ten Digit Dialing. In fact, reference to approximately 30 years of climbing experience should add something to one's qualification to grade a route. And this Alan Nelson has. For TDD, I'll offer no personal opinion here, however, consensus grading seems to be one of the final arbitors for establishing a grade. Another arbitor is reference to a "Gold Standard" for the grade, in the area. As far as Clear Creek is concerned: Is TDD easier than Twitch? Is it harder than Anarchitect? Is it on par with Evil? What I will offer is that TDD has at least one move harder than Battle's End, which we call 5.12c and that seems to be well accepted. Down-grading by strong, young bloods should be taken with a grain of salt. I've climbed with some of these guys, and many are so strong now that most 5.12 comes very easy. Let's say that no matter how young and strong you are, a "Gold Standard" is the inviolate reference point. So think about the reference point when picking the grade, and remember: it's okay to get better, but getting better doesn't mean that a route has gotten easier. Jun 13, 2001

Nate Weitzel

[Hide Comment] In regard to the above discussion on grading in Clear Creek, and especially TDD, I would have to agree with the concept of using Gold Standard routes to compare moves. I have tried many of the Clear Creek 12d's and 13a's, as well as having completed a number of the 12c's in the canyon. My opinion of the grade is based on these routes, and I would reference Twitch in particular. Twitch is very similar to TDD, although the crux moves are on slightly smaller holds. For this reason alone, TDD seems to be 12c, although definitely a hard 12c. Also, compare TDD to Sucking my will to live at the Primo Wall. I found Sucking to be more challenging and powerful, and it is another 5.12c. I agree with Quinn and would love to applaud both Alan Nelson and Richard Wright for so many phenomenal routes in CCC, and thank them for all their hard work. I also respect the right of the first ascentionist to give a grade, but this grade needs to be worked out with the climbing community to establish the final grade. This happens with all good routes over time, the grade often changes a bit as more people figure it out. One other comment is that the grade should be accurate to give people who are aspiring to certain climbing levels a realistic feel for that grade. I have been quite disappointed in the past by trying routes in many areas that I put on my goal list, only to find the grade to be easier than stated. This can give people a false sense of security, which can be a dangerous thing. Finally, even though I am a younger climber, I am definitely not a young gun who warms up on 13a. It has taken me 8+ years to be able to even try some of these routes that we are discussing, so I feel justified in giving my opinion on the grades. Jul 12, 2001

Sven Lavransen

[Hide Comment] A very good route about which I am very happy for careful and thinking Flash. Good moves to start with much harder finger moves near end, but route is very short so power is not very great. Having long reach in crux makes move to left not so hard as for the shorter person. Aug 9, 2001

Peter Beal Boulder Colorado

[Hide Comment] Having flashed this route, I have to say that comparing it with its neighbor, Reefer Madness, there is no single move on the 5.12 harder than the crux of the "11a". This doesn't make TDD easier but makes me wonder about Reefer Madness. Aug 28, 2001

Walt Wehner

[Hide Comment] This is a stellar route, but I'll eat my shorts if it's 13a. My best guess would be that it'd rate 12b or maybe b/c at an older area like Shelf. I haven't really climbed in 2 years, and I came within a hang of flashing it this weekend, meaning that it can't possibly be that hard ('cause I ain't that good!) One of my favorite routes a Clear Creek! 10 stars on a 3 star scale sounds about right! Sep 4, 2001

Anonymous Coward

[Hide Comment] 5.12c - Not a bad little onsight Aug 19, 2002

richard magill

[Hide Comment] I would go with 12c, but I think calling it any easier than that is just serious sandbagging. Aug 20, 2002

richard magill

[Hide Comment] Phenomenal. Oct 2, 2002

Joe Collins Boulder, CO   5.12c

[Hide Comment] This is the best sport pitch I've climbed thus far in Clear Creek! Unless I've gotten much better this winter, I agree with the above comments regarding the inaccurate guidebook rating of 12d/13a. Its probably more like 12c, and not a particular stout one at that. Best sport pitch I've done in Clear Creek (caveat: I have not tried Anarchitecht or Sonic Youth). fair to middlin' 12c Mar 17, 2003

Anonymous Coward

[Hide Comment] I think what people need to keep in mind is that the shorter you are the more difficult the crux is on this route. I did the route with someone only a few inches taller than me and watched him reach through the crux holds using the same solid good feet, whereas I had to move my feet twice onto much less desired footholds. Having said that, I did TDD 2 years ago on my 2 try. While it didnt feel 13a for me, I would give it 12c/d based on the single hard move. Sucking my will to live is more sustained, but TDD has a harder move. Its a stellar route whatever the grade is! Kathleen Staffa - (too lazy to register) Apr 25, 2003

Anonymous Coward

[Hide Comment] I would have to say that height is not really a factor on this route. 12d at Smith took me two weeks, TDD took me three tries on the same day, and I am only 5'6 and I pretty much suck at sport climbing. 12c seems good but maybe a little generous. Would love it it if were 13a. Great route fun moves. Jun 14, 2003

jonah

[Hide Comment] Climbed this thing today, so I wanted to log on to see what people said about the route. Imagine my disappointment to find nothing but a bunch of insecure pussies trying to boost their own egos by spraying about how easy they found this route. What about "great job, Alan, thanks for putting in the time and effort to bolt such a fun route" or "is there a better way to reach the sidepull than popping into an undercling on the triangular horn" or anything anyone cares about other than all the bitching about ratings. Wankers... Jul 3, 2003

Area Dan Oakland, CA

[Hide Comment] I got on this route today- perfect weather. I must say it is really one of the highest quality pitches I have ever been on. I don't know and don't care about the grade, but thanks for bolting this masterpiece. Now I just have to go back and link it up to the bird poop.www.areadan.com. Oct 12, 2003

Patheticus   5.12d

[Hide Comment] Another 100' of this would make my shorts wet... Hmm... wet shorts... Ratings be damned, it is one of the best routes in the park. Sequential, dynamic, 3-bolt crux. 'Git on it!! Oct 13, 2003

Anonymous Coward

[Hide Comment] Alan, I think this is a really good line (and well bolted) but there is no way it's 13a. Just because this climb took you a certain number of tries does not necessarily mean that it is a certain grade. Different climbs favor different people. I got this route on my second try in the middle of summer whereas Anarchitect took more than five days of work over the course of a month. I usually dont redpoint 12c on my second try but favor crimps over slopers and power over endurance so 12c seems reasonable. Oct 17, 2003

Darren Mabe   5.12

[Hide Comment] Great fun. I was expecting the start to be more difficult than it is, from all the hype this little route gets. The crux is certainly no harder than 12c. Probably the biggest crux is deciphering the most efficient sequence, as every available feature, edge, bump, and crimp, are chalked and ticked! Plenty of good rests before the crux, great clipping stances. Aug 15, 2005

Wyatt Payne Littleton CO

[Hide Comment] This is one of my favorite routes in the canyon. Definitely a good one to repeat. I jumped on it today and noticed that the crux is easier. A sloping side pull has mysteriously become quite positive. I'm afraid someone has chipped it, and want to know if anyone else has noticed this. I was definitely bummed. I'd like to think climbers are more respectful. Let me know what's up. Sep 18, 2005

BZD	[Hide Comment] I just recently had my draws stolen off Ten Digit Dialing, like in the past 4 or 5 days. Does anyone know anything that could help me get them back? I really need them. I won't be pissed off. I just want them back. Thanks. Oct 2, 2006

micah stocker

[Hide Comment] God I love this place! The only problem is what the hell happened to it. It's like I move away and now the whole Golden Cliffs crowed has moved in. Funny story, I watched like ten different climbers get on TDD this weekend. They all lowered off and down graded it. Best part was not a single one sent the dam thing. No wonder grades are so out of WHACK! Everyone that has sent it, is pretty set on 12c, however, pulling on a draw must to make it soft for the grade.... LOL. Oct 7, 2007

Sam Benedict Denver, CO   5.12c

[Hide Comment] I hate this climb with all my heart. It is a fine route...for me to poop on. Mar 27, 2008

doug rouse Denver, CO.

[Hide Comment] 5.12b--I guess I will open my yap on this one as well. First I need to say that I usually do not contribute to public spray, and that I thought this to be an amazing line! I will further add that I have climbed other routes given .12c, and found most of them to require further effort. By example I would say this one feels easier than Pizza Dick, Power Bulge, most certaily easier than Je T'aime...If you can make the reach properly ( which feels natural ), then you're stylin' to the chains! I have yet to encounter a bad day climbing at CCC! Peace, Young Doug. Sep 2, 2008

Micah Holt Pittsburgh, PA   5.12d

[Hide Comment] I thought it was harder than Finger Prince....maybe I am just weird, but really. I think 12c if not 12d...I lean towards 12d. I also thought that it was close to on par with Flying Cowboys and Sucking My Will To Live. It's just hard to grade due to the cryptic beta. Nov 10, 2008

half-pad-mini-jug crauschville   5.12c

[Hide Comment] I find it interesting that many people have 'ticked' this route without actually redpointing it.... Don't really care, but isn't that the definition of a 'tick'??? Sep 5, 2009

Monomaniac Morrison, CO

[Hide Comment] It is to you and me Darth, but apparently we're in the minority. Sep 8, 2009

Luke Childers

[Hide Comment] Great line!! Felt solid at 12c. Cool crux section as well. Did not get the on-sight but will be back for the red point!!! Nov 11, 2009

Jason Antin Golden, CO   5.12c

[Hide Comment] FANTASTIC LINE! Looking forward to working on this one.... May 10, 2011

Stephen Nance Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] Spot on .12c. I am 6'5", and it is still hard. Rhe bottom crux sequence maybe easier for me, but getting my feet up for the last sequence to the jug is very tough for me with my height. My opinion, this could be the benchmark 12c in CCC. May 30, 2011

Monty Golden, CO

[Hide Comment] If you're bored with the start of TDD, you can add another 5.12 crux by starting up Reefer Madness. Traverse up and left at the 3rd bolt staying at the level of the jug before the crux of Reefer. Dumb but fun. Aug 3, 2011

slim   5.12c

[Hide Comment] If you've sent Lucid Dreaming, I think it's ok for you to say that you climb hardish 12. Which route was easier for you, TDD or LD? Sep 15, 2011

Darren Mabe   5.12

[Hide Comment] I think Coy Flynn should try some harder routes in the Front Range. He may surprise himself or at least have a better idea of 5.12 ratings. I think some folks rate TDD on the onsight, some rate it on the redpoint. Sep 15, 2011

Adam Peters Glenwood Springs, CO   5.12b/c

[Hide Comment] Corey, you should try Testify at Wall of J mountainproject.com/v/testi…. Sep 20, 2011

Curt MacNeill Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] Great route with funs flowy moves and a super fun crux. There is a reason someone is always on this thing. On par with Ken Tanks, Anarchitect, and Sucking in terms of quality.... Jan 16, 2012

Adam Peters Glenwood Springs, CO   5.12b/c

[Hide Comment] Enough said...bahahahahahaha! I love mp.com. Classic! Jan 21, 2012

richard magill

[Hide Comment] Outstanding 12c route. Jan 23, 2012

Ben Hall Los Angeles, CA   5.12c

[Hide Comment] Rock is very very greasy at this time. Still, arguably, one of the best routes at Clear Creek. May 13, 2013

climberboy228 Romano

[Hide Comment] Got on it for the first time today...awesome! I was on TR set quite easily after ascending Reefer Madness. I got the first 2/3 of the route clean first go until the last two bolts where the crux lies. It looks like you can string together a series of sequency crimps through the crux rather than the desperate sloper/squeeze problem people talk about. I will return and try some more. May 26, 2014

DPug   5.12c

[Hide Comment] Yesterday I ended up breaking off the good incut right above the third bolt. There still is the good flat edge to the right of where the hold broke, so it doesn't change anything. Just thought I'd let people know. Jun 9, 2014

Clint Hager 1 Colorado Springs, Colorado

[Hide Comment] I was climbing here on June 11th, and I was next to a party that were climbing this route and Wet Dream. Anyways, they accidentally forgot to clean one of their draws on this route. I think one person in the party's name was Mike. Mike, if you're reading this, I have your quickdraw. Send me a message, and I can give it back to you. -Clint Jun 12, 2014

Samuel Perakis

[Hide Comment] My partner and I mistook this for Reefer Madness and had to bail at the fifth bolt. We left two quickdraws. If you find them and clean them, could you send me a PM please? I'll describe them to whomever finds them. Thanks! Jun 23, 2016

Nolan Robertson Durango, CO   5.12c

[Hide Comment] The finishing moves of the crux sequence on this thing are exciting! You think you'll be getting a jug sooner than you really do! Apr 7, 2017

Geoff U Centennial, CO   5.12c

[Hide Comment] This stays dry in the rain. May 20, 2018

Kevin Capps Golden, CO   5.12c

[Hide Comment] I replaced the crux bolt today, so it’s good to go! I was able to just screw in a new 1/2” stainless to the existing sleeve and cone, and I tightened it to 25 foot pounds. Apr 25, 2019

Stefan Levinson   5.12c

[Hide Comment] The good right hand crimp used to move up to the better edge above the 2nd bolt is flexing quite a bit, just be light and careful there. Jun 11, 2019

Dylan Cousins

[Hide Comment] Sorry to hear that the crux bolt came out. I actually had to go back and tighten it a few months after I replaced it, because it was loose. Since the sleeve seems to be fine, the bolt did not need to be removed, but rather, just tightened. This is a good reminder to carry a wrench as part of your cragging kit. Thanks, Kevin, for remedying the situation. The long term solution may be just to put a glue-in there, since that is the bolt that everyone hangs on. The reason that I decided to replace the bolts on this in the first place was that the crux used to have a wedge bolt that was worn halfway through from the hanger spinning around when people hung on it. Jul 5, 2019

Kevbert Seivin Golden, CO

[Hide Comment] That crux bolt is back in and good to go! The other day, I watched some younger beefcakes, climbing it without the crux bolt in it, taking whip after whip, it was quite exciting. I told them it was missing a bolt... they didn't believe me until they finally noticed the hole while lowering off the anchors. I guess they just figured it was just another one of those Clear Creek heady testpieces. Anyways, the falls are clean! Skipping the last bolt is a good strategy if you're all pumped at the top. Apr 22, 2020

ALuckyDuck Boulder, CO   5.12c

[Hide Comment] The crux thumb catch seems to have been broken.... Shame. Feels maybe a little harder now but not enough to change a letter grade. May 8, 2020

Anthony Manzione   5.12c

[Hide Comment] Clean your tick marks, people! Jun 18, 2020

Jack Sparrow denver, co   5.12c/d

[Hide Comment] Wow, 320 ticks that’s crazy til you realize 150 of are Jeremy Stocks. Dammmmn, what a boss could you imagine sending their RIG that many times, if you ever wondered, don’t search any farther for father Stocks has written this overdue gospel. Aug 9, 2020

Chris Ham   5.12c

[Hide Comment] I think ALuckyDuck is right, I remember the thumb catch being quite a bit more pronounced. Certainly does not make it that much harder, but I think continues to solidify the grade. Do yourself a favor, and clip the 7th bolt on your redpoint attempt. I know several people who skip it. Personally, I think it adds to the quality of the climbing and some of the desperation at the last compression moves. Nov 16, 2020

Tzilla Rapdrilla

[Hide Comment] Unknown to most, this entire route was about 1 - 2 feet below the original surface. Richard Wright and I also helped put this route up with Alan. During some of the original cleaning sessions, I was wondering if there would be anything climbable left. It would’ve been easier in its original and unstable form. Mar 25, 2021

Payton Reinoehl Denver, CO

[Hide Comment] I am by no means an expert on the matter, but it appears that bolt 5 is coming out of the wall a bit. I will try and tighten it with a wrench if I’m back in the near future. You clip the next bolt before the beginning of the crux so shouldn’t be whipping on it, but I thought it was worth mentioning. Apr 5, 2021

Isaac Palatt Denver, CO

[Hide Comment] The previous commenter is correct, the 5th bolt is pretty sketch on this one right now. It 100% needs to be replaced in the near future, before taking too many more falls. Today I wiggled it with my fingers like a loose tooth and chose to bail on the OS attempt, lower, and then stickclip past it, due to its present condition. If you're confident you won't fall there, by all means go for it, but I wanted to post this for the public record. Aug 24, 2022

Alex R Golden

[Hide Comment] The 5th bolt has been fixed. Sep 1, 2022

Rachel Cope Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] This weekend a large part of the jug hold before the crux sequence broke off. My partner & I found it both more difficult to rest on and made our crux sequence more difficult. I am curious how other people find this change. Aug 7, 2023

Evan McCormick Clinton, NY

[Hide Comment] Person in the comments: "just because it took you a certain number of tries doesn't mean it's a certain grade!" The same person two sentences later: "I got it on my second try, the grade is definitely inflated!" XD Sep 17, 2023

Samuel Puckett Denver, CO

[Hide Comment] The good hold below the crux definitely broke, and a key foot before the last bolt is gone. It feels quite a bit harder now. Dec 21, 2023

Rachel P Louisville, CO   5.12c/d

[Hide Comment] It's interesting how so many people think that using the far left sidepull to start the crux is the 'tall person beta'. I'm under 5'7" with a 0 ape index and have no issue getting my left hand on the sidepull and reaching the crimp above the 2nd to last draw with my right hand, and that sequence worked well for my redpoint. Not the best video, but here's how I did the crux (which is very similar to all the other videos out there on YT): youtu.be/k0ZTdoc-_jo?featur…. Jun 10, 2024