Patrick Vernon Grand Junction, CO

[Hide Comment] There is an alternate rap anchor to the right of Reggae (when facing it) two new bolts. This will get you to a ledge that lets you traverse to the rap anchors on the first pitch of Calypso, and is probably the safest descent. The walkoff to the left is sketchy with loose rock, and continuing to the summit is annoying (although it is a cool summit) this rap station is a nice thing to know about, you can use it to descend from routes on the South Face too. Jan 1, 2001

Ben Mottinger

[Hide Comment] Myke and I did the 8 variation today (12/15) in the snow--quite fun actually. I wanted to mention that there are three starts to this climb. 1: 5.5: the crack on the far right, then traverse left to the dihedral. 2. 5.8: straight up the middle to the dihedral. 3. 5.6: next to the boulder, then traverse left to the dihedral. Also, if you do the roof variation, you can rap 75 from the Tagger anchors. Jan 1, 2001

Ben Mottinger

[Hide Comment] I just read these comments again and realized I made a mistake. For the first variation I meant to say the crack on the far "left" then traverse "right" to gain the crack. Jan 1, 2001

Andrew Klein

[Hide Comment] Mace, pepper spray, or tranquilizer gun may be needed (from May-November) to ward of herds of pesky climbers queued up at the base. Dec 23, 2001

Greg Kneser

[Hide Comment] This route is a great climb aside from the one questionable large flake about 3/4 of the way up. One other note: you can make it to the ground from the top of the first pitch if you have a 60meter rope, though it will take some rope stretch to get all the way down or you'll have to swing over a little to the left to get to higher rocks. This route can be done with a fairly standard rack, nothing too big necessary. Feb 16, 2002

Anonymous Coward

[Hide Comment] The loose flake on the 1st pitch is an accident waiting to happen. I hung out waiting for a family watching me to leave before I yarded up on the thing. It's ready to go. Warn your belayer ahead of time before you start up the pitch and make sure there isn't anyone below you when you yard on the thing. On a side note. This pitch goes without the flake at 5.8. You just kind of layback and step over it. Someone with a crow bar could remove the thing pretty easily. Do us all a favor. Maybe at night on rappel. Anyway, just a warning to those who climb the route. Apr 23, 2002

Jason Carter Monument, CO

[Hide Comment] With a 60m rope and well thought out pro placements one can start left of the boulder, move right into the crack, continue up to the roof, pull the roof to the left, and continue to the second belay ledge, although you'll end up setting up a hanging belay just short of the cave/ledge. There are two pins and numerous nut placements for a bomber belay - also the roof below protects well, med cam and/or nut sits well before you commit. This avoids that nasty flake I've been hearing about! Apr 26, 2002

Michael Komarnitsky Seattle, WA   5.6

[Hide Comment] A more enjoyable finish than the crumbly walk off: swing right onto the face and follow easy climbing up 50 feet, before a somewhat rotten dihedral of more easy climbing. Then you're at the top; enjoy the view! (I'm not really sure why I'm suggesting that a variation involving rotten rock is enjoyable.... but I think the walk-off is boring and lame, and topping out is always more fun.) May 5, 2002

Kreighton Bieger

[Hide Comment] Did Calypso as one long 60m pitch today with no problems and no hanging belay, and rope to spare. Started left (the easy start), lots of long runners, and didn't place any gear to the left at the first roof/corner. A blue Alien placed near the right side of the roof with a long sling will get you a pretty straight rope line. Skip the bolts, fire right up the second pitch crack and you should arrive at the first big ledge with some rope to spare. I don't know if I could have made it 10 feet higher to the walk off ledge proper, though. I did a seated belay on the lower ledge with a thread and a #1 Camalot placement. May 18, 2002

J. Thompson denver, co

[Hide Comment] I used to think that the flake on the first pitch was going to come tumbling off any second. I would have to admit that it looks like it might, however it's been there for years and the route see's like a jillion ascents a year (it gets pulled on a lot)- Moral of the story it's probably good so please don't pry it off! Jun 23, 2002

DanMoore

[Hide Comment] Just did this today. I'm pretty new to leading, but I have a few words for folks interested in this climb. If you are going to do the walk off, realize that it is pretty exposed. I was happy to be roped up. The protection is a bit thin, but I felt the walk off was very exposed. Conversely, I was interested in rappelling (from the bolts on top of Reggae), but when I got the the ledge on the second pitch, I couldn't find much pro placement. In either case, don't be deceived by the direct nature of the first half of the second pitch. I had quite a bit of rope drag when I wandered around the walkoff looking for a belay. Sep 24, 2002

Scott Thompson

[Hide Comment] Calypso Direct: this variation is fun. it seemed a tad tough to me, the holds are all super-pos, even a tad too sharp (ouch), but getting my feet above the lip was pretty hard, however, this move is very well protected if you can reach high enough from the stance below the roof. once you have your feet above the lip, its hard to find gear above you, and the stance is really weird. if youre leading at your limit, youd definately want a piece, becuase decking onto the slab below the roof would not be pleasant. theres probably a stopper placement, but it would take up a nice finger slot. sure its a few-move wonder, but anyone else feel that its a bit hard? maybe i missed something. Oct 2, 2002

ROC Denver, CO

[Hide Comment] Did this today. Very pleased with the 1st pitch, get 5.6 climbing with bomber holds and decent pro. Was a bit let down with the second pitch on. I would recomend only doing the 1st. Thats where all the real fun is to be had. The start of the second is good also, with great exposure and huge jugs all the way. Once you top out on the bulge at the start of the second the fun is pretty much done. From there its just the business of getting off the rock with out getting killed. Aug 13, 2003

shad O'Neel

[Hide Comment] Cams in pockets gets you a good second belay, as stated above, and a good nut at your feet. The third pitch adds a lot to the climb. I find it quite enjoyable with not that much loose rock. Stepping out around the corner is a great move with lots of air under your feet. To me, it seems less loose choss than the ledge walk......besides it's always good to finish a climb..... Jan 12, 2004

Ray Broscovak   5.6

[Hide Comment] I really enjoy this route but the one problem i had was that i did the second pitch for the first time just recently. The area on the photo above marked Walk-off is NOT really a walk-off, it is more of crumbley traverse... i was rather mislead. I think that it is best to stay ropped up for this one and finish the third pitch. May 6, 2004

DanMoore

[Hide Comment] Another accident on Calypso. The climber walked away from 80 foot fall: dailycamera.com/bdc/county_… May 7, 2004

Greg Hand Golden, CO

[Hide Comment] I am always intrigued by accident reports in a newspaper. I know there are (were) some old pitons at the top of the first pitch of Calypso, but did he not clip the bolted anchors? I wonder what the full story is. Must have been an exciting 2.236 seconds! Good to hear he walked away. May 7, 2004

Ben Couch

[Hide Comment] Did this route Thursday, May 6, pulled pro and a fixed pin at the top of the secound pitch. I fell to the belay ledge at the top of the first pitch, as I was off belay and sitting on the anchor. Have since heard much advice of climbing past the end of the small dihedral at the end of the second pitch and moving left to straddle a block for the belay of your second. Good advice, I think I will surely take next time. Stellar route though and very enjoyable. Peace. May 8, 2004

Anonymous Coward

[Hide Comment] Possibly Eldo's best .6 though it has become polished in recent years- be forewarned. Fun, fun, fun. I think it best not to think of there being a 3rd pitch to the top of Wind Tower above the 2nd because this formation layer in the tower is rotten. Careful traversing on the walk-off ledge through Wind Ridge is preferable. Jun 12, 2004

Michael J Yarros Colorado Springs, CO   5.6

[Hide Comment] Fun route, loved the traverse at the top of the 1st pitch. Jul 14, 2004

James Durden   5.6

[Hide Comment] I took the 5.6 start just under and to the left of the Boulder. I placed a #4 cam into the crack in the first 10 feet to protect this start. It is a traditional Eldo cruxy start. Balancy and fun it did take me quite some time to unlock the footwork. The pro is great and plentiful over the large majority of the pitch. The pro is pretty thin to the right of the traverse. The holds are vertical grippers that are a bit polished..that goes for the feet as well. I was able to place two nuts in the horizontal crack in the roof and then once on the right side of the roof I found a very attractive little area that wouldn't accept jack! I tried 4-5 pieces. I looked above it after abandoning that little crack. I was happy to find two piton scars that would accept a green and a yellow alien. The protection wasn't bomber but it was good. Then I began the climb up - a little smooth but positive overall. You'll need a #3 cam for the top 10 feet of the route. Hand jam with right hand...bring your feet up step by step - balancing then reach for the top of the crack with your left hand - nice REALLY nice finger placement at the very top of the crack on the first pitch. I felt like having a cigarette and taking a nap after getting that finger there. :) Oct 6, 2004

Gary Schmidt Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] Lots of fun. A suggestion for those who wish to top-out on wind tower and avoid some of the loose rock potential (though there is still some) after the second pitch. We traversed the "walk off ledge" (exposed)over to the top of second pitch of wind ridge and then did the third pitch of wind ridge. Made for a nice outing. Also if you are a confident down climber the traditional rappel north of the summit is a reasonable downclimb. Dec 18, 2004

Gary Schmidt Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] Just a word of caution about anchors at the second ledge from experience. Even though the anchors pickings look slim and the ledge appears rather wide when you first arrive at the second belay ledge don't be tempted to skimp on your anchor! There are two round holes which you can make use of. The upper one took a bomber blue tri-cam. Up to the right of that is a crack that I managed to fiddle an ok medium hex into. Below the lower hole a blue H.B cam fit quite well in a flaring crack. I only say all this because if I hadn't taken the time to build a solid anchor my partner and I would probably be playing harp duets in the blue yonder right now instead of me writing this note. My second struggled getting off the start of the second pitch and eventually fell. He would surely have pulled me off if I hadn't been solidly anchored. Have you kissed your cordellete today? Dec 31, 2004

Kevin Craig

[Hide Comment] FINALLY led the first pitch today after it spanked me very early in my leading career. What a HOOT! Great route! Granted, I've got a lot more experience now, but I'm still no super-rock-jock, and I found the climbing secure and the gear good! Did the 5.5 start from the left - No gear and a bit balancy, but quite secure. There's a bomber nut in an old pin scar (odd though that sounds) on your left right before the traverse starts. Used a yellow alien part way across, and take 2 x #2 Camalots for the last 20 or so feet to the belay ledge (textbook placements on the L). Vast majority of the route is easily done on passive gear (nuts, hexes, tri-cams). Whoo hoo! Mar 4, 2005

nick moeckel   5.6

[Hide Comment] I spent quite a while being a little freaked out about this climb and its reputation, finally hopped on it the other day. Fun and easy climbing up to a decent stance below the roof, from which you can lean and place a stopper before starting the traverse. A couple of fairly nice alien placements after the traverse pretty much eliminate the risk of dihedral-smackage if a fall were to occur. I was pleasently surprised at the quality of the pro, and *really* liked the underclingy moves on the traverse. May 27, 2005

Mike Abraham   5.7

[Hide Comment] This news may already be in the climbingboulder post queue, so sorry in advance if this winds up being a redundant post.... The flake is gone. Yesterday morning my partner and I arrived at the start to see some big blocks and debris on the ground. Sure enough, the flake had fallen (or was pulled off). It had been there when we did the route over Memorial Day weekend. There was grit on both the ground and the route, possibly indicating that the flake had fallen very recently, since there were heavy rains only the day before, which I assume would have washed the grit away had the flake fallen earlier in the week. Anybody have more information or know when and how it occurred? Jun 6, 2005

Alex Andrews   5.7

[Hide Comment] Just did it the route after the flake come off from above the overhang, it made the route a little harder 5.7, I think it made it a little better, it just needs some rain to wash away the dirt from under the flake, one of my favorite climbs of its grade. Jun 7, 2005

Anonymous Coward

[Hide Comment] With the flake gone, the section between the roof traverse and the red ledge near the anchor is pretty sustained dihedral climbing (with slippery dirt on slopey edges where the flake was). It makes the climb a bit more aesthetic but pumpier. The Kevin Currigan photo below shows a climber just below the monster flake that is no more. Now it's a smaller wobbler at the base..-s Jun 7, 2005

Mike Abraham   5.7

[Hide Comment] I agree that the route is a little harder now. 5.7, I guess. I think there's good edges for your feet, which'll be more obvious once the grit's gone, and there's good hands along the dihedral itself. So, the hard stretch just seems a bit longer now. Jun 7, 2005

Rob

[Hide Comment] I climbed Calypso with a friend on June 6th and couldn't get over how recently the flake must've fallen. Crisp fractures on the ground, lotta sand on the holds, vertical scars on the face. It struck me that the route didn't change that much. Maybe .5 grade harder (call it a 6+) for the slightly more sustained last quarter of the pitch. It may be an improvement since the rest was maybe out of character with the route? I'll bet new climbers to the area won't have much problem with calling it "sustained 5.6." It sure must've been something to see. Jun 13, 2005

Friso Schlottau

[Hide Comment] I too was surprised when I found the flake missing on P1. However, I think that the quality of the route has actually gone up. That flake was always a bit of a weird spot to be avoided, making an otherwise great line a bit contrived... Jun 17, 2005

J. Thompson denver, co

[Hide Comment] Laughing at my comments above from about2-3 years ago..."that flake is bomber, it's never coming off!!" HaHa!! On really wet spring and...PING!! Anyway climbed the route again yesterday, I found it to be easier since the flake is gone. There is no longer any loose stuff or sand/dirt there making the area slippery. And now there is a HUGE foot hold where the flake used to be. Now instead of trying to avoid the flake you can just step up and pull right thru....the route is still 5.6 but the climbing thru that section is now less awkward. ENJOY!! josh Jun 19, 2005

Kevin Craig

[Hide Comment] Led this again sans flake on 6/24. I'd agree both that the route is now more aesthetic, but also more sustained. Now that the dirt/sand has washed off, I don't think it's enough harder to warrant a 5.7 but a former "solid" rest is now missing. Makes the crux longer and placing gear for the last half a bit pumpier especially the 2nd gold Camalot I mention above - now a #3 (blue) is probably the pro of choice for that placement (difficult to reach as high). But overall the "new" climbing is of similar difficulty to the rest of the crux. I'd say 5.6+ or simply sustained 5.6. Jun 26, 2005

JPVallone

[Hide Comment] Just did this last Wednsday sans flake for the first time. Yes this route is way better with out the flake. For most people this makes the route harder, and more sustained for climbers of the grade. For me, the route is easier. I have climbed this route close to 30 times or so. I don't really know, mostly guided. I have never touched that flake nor have I ever put a piece of gear behind it. I have always thought it to be suspect having climbed in Eldo enough to see many things come down. I probabblly made the climbing in that section contrived 5.9 by literally not touching that flake. Eldo is relatively clean, But take this to heart, there is still many loose blocks all over the canyon, some smaller and not as significant as the Calypso block. They are on many of the popular classics and covered in Chalk. This block is a good example for anyone who has climbed the route and thought nothing of the block. Many people over the years, mostly inexperienced have put gear under that flake and then yarded up on it. You know who you are. I always wondered about the people lined up at the base of that thing like sitting ducks, Not a matter of IF, but When. I for one am glad the block is gone and think the route is far better and safer with out it. Climb safe and treat all loose or hollow sounding blocks as suspect. Remember to not assume it is good because there is chalk on something. I learned this lesson the hard way having almost been killed on Vertigo. There is more loose rock in this canyon than people think. Heads up out there! Jun 30, 2005

Gary Schmidt Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] Led this for the second time about a month ago. Wasn't til I got home I began to think there was something different about the route. I couldn't remember if I'd seen the flake or not. So I came on here to check and sure enough it was gone. I don't remember the climb being much harder the second time though I remember looking down from the first belay thinking I did run it out a bit more than last time. A great route, just glad no one was at the bottom when the thing came off. Aug 2, 2005

Eric Haye Boulder

[Hide Comment] Did this for the 1st time today. Classic! I thought the traverse right at the start would be tricky but it's pretty easy. Once you gain the crack, it's great climbing. The roof is a little sustained but you can find a great stopper placement just before you start the exit right. Make sure you use long slings here. Climbing after the roof is good but expect to place mainly small nuts. Placed a #3 Camalot at the top before making the move to the bolts. I forgot and it'll make your head feel better. 2nd pitch is pure fun. Once at the top climb a little higher until you see the "holes" in the rocks on climbers left. I found a nice home for a red Alien, nut and slung a thru hole with a runner. Bomber anchor! Mar 25, 2006

Jo Holloway   5.6

[Hide Comment] I was on this route for the first time May 26, so I have no baseline regarding the route prior to the fallen flake. It climbed like a 5.6 to me. Rockfall happens... May 30, 2006

David M Jones Boulder, CO   5.6

[Hide Comment] Fred Vanden Bergh and I did the regular first pitch as a prelude to Reggae. I was on the sharp end -- my first time climbing in Eldo -- and the route seemed a solid 5.6 to me. (I never had a chance to climb it with the now-missing flake so I am not comparing to the prior version.) Aside from the first 10-15 feet being run out, the pro was good. Apr 20, 2007

Daniel Crescenzo

[Hide Comment] Dubious ratings. Calypso felt closer, yet so far from an 8 than Reggae did. Both routes have a sketchy section (groundfall onto jagged pain on Calypso and a nasty winger into a dihedral on Reggae), but honestly, I got worked harder on the "6" than I did on the "8". Well, now marks the day when I give up on the number system. Jul 16, 2007

tooTALLtim Vanlife

[Hide Comment] Second pitch wasn't that fun, though the views from the top are cool. Aug 7, 2007

Phillip Tearse Denver, CO

[Hide Comment] Awesome climb! Climbed today and someone had slung a boulder at the top of the 2nd pitch for rappel including a locker. Looked only a few days old. For building an anchor up here, forget the chossy holes that look interesting up above, just at the lip of the climb is a fixed pin (on the left in the dihedral, a bit hard to find), a great tunnel to sling, a few bomber nut placements, and the slung rap boulder (or sling it again yourself if you don't trust it). Also, in the Falcon guidebook, it indicates two bolts in the crack just above belay 1. They are not there, so don't expect 'em! Jun 6, 2008

Paul Hunnicutt Boulder, CO   5.6 PG13

[Hide Comment] Start is a bit dicey be careful. Good red Alien placement as your first piece...I was chatting with my belayer and unexpectedly fell...lucky I wasn't added to the Calypso accident list. Seemed about the same as the Bastille Crack to me....or a bit easier. 5.7 - mostly for going through the roof section and up the following corner. The first corner felt 5.5ish. Sustained 5.6? It just sounds strange. For me this is typical Eldo stupidity...just put a bolt to protect the start and save the many ankles that will be broken on this climb in the future. Oct 26, 2008

Matthew Benton Boulder, CO   5.6

[Hide Comment] I would say hard 5.6, but that makes it fun. The gear is there. Mind your footwork on the upper half. Pitch 1 linked with Reggae makes for two great pitches of climbing. Sep 14, 2009

Brett Brotherton Arvada, CO

[Hide Comment] The start is definitely spicy. The holds are all there, and it's really not difficult. It also helps that this climb feels like a gym climb all the holds on it are clearly marked with chalk. Once past the start, the gear pretty good, although if this were my first 5.6 lead I would have been terrified. Paul, I can't believe you fell off the start and didn't get hurt the landing if you fall is rather nasty looking. If rapping from first pitch anchors, be careful when pulling the rope, I got to solo the start up and down getting the rope unstuck. It got stuck in the crack on top of the large boulder leaning on the face, probably best to try and go to the left when you pull the rope to avoid this. Feb 13, 2010

Count Chockula Littleton, CO

[Hide Comment] I've led the direct start a couple times without incident, but like Paul, I unexpectedly popped off the spicy direct start last year. Messed my right foot up pretty good but didn't break anything. Luckily, I landed squarely on the boulder at the base of the climb and ended up with just a bad heel contusion and some deep arm abrasions. A few inches in either direction and there would have been bones crunching. It happened so fast my belayer was helpless to do anything to break my fall. From now on, I'm going to put packs over the boulder at the base of the climb to reduce any potential impact, or just traverse in from the left to gain the crack. Also, I think if you're taller, you can easily reach the 'thank God' rail that saves the final move on the slab. But for us shorter folk, we have to make an extra move or two on crimps and really thin feet, and that's where I popped. Oct 4, 2010

Brown Guy Arvada, CO   5.6

[Hide Comment] Nice route. Led the easy 5.6 start and climb easier terrain on face to the right of corner, stepping periodically to the corner to place gear. Pro was adequate. Route felt like sustained 5.6 and no harder. Small but adequate face holds (hands and feet) are available up higher for the one who looks. Circumventing the roof to the right felt like the crux. Next time I will not forget to protect the traverse at the top for the follower. There are good cam placement possibilities on the roof of the ledge that will prevent too large a swing for the follower. Second pitch felt like easy 5.6 right off the bat and then 5.3-5.4ish to the next ledge. Oct 29, 2010

Rodger Raubach Billings, MT   5.6

[Hide Comment] I've only done the direct start everytime I've climbed Calypso; it's gotta' be easy 5.8 and entirely on footwork. Probably done the route almost as many times as I've done Redguard (14 ascents). Much more enjoyable, however! Mar 12, 2011

Canon

[Hide Comment] Skipped the early runout and belayed from the top of the giant boulder leaning against the wall. Easy to traverse left on giant holds and gain the crack. P1 is easy enough to protect, but moving right underneath the roof, all of those blocks looked ready to drop at any time. I'm actually shocked that the climb is as popular as it is. Did not find anything particularly noteworthy about it, it's awkward and nervous, and there are always a million parties and expert chipmunks hanging around. Almost got hit by someone who dropped a biner from above. Jun 30, 2011

Michael Slater Denver

[Hide Comment] Hit this route yesterday morning for my first ever Eldo and first ever multi-pitch route. The climbing is easy and super fun although as it was my first time being up that high I have to say terrifying at times when I was belaying and getting to look at the beautiful but intimidating view across and below. I'm still debating whether or not I'll ever do multi-pitch climbing again...probably will! One thing to note, the last pitch has quite a bit of loose rock to the right. The lead climber for the last pitch was reaching for what looked to be a solid hold, it broke away and a mini rock slide occurred with rocks as big as a small car tire fell off. Luckily, the belay point is extremely well protected under a small overhang, and the other climber and I were safe. However, climbers below were exposed, but no one was hit. Aug 8, 2011

Claire Rose Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] Was my 2nd pitch on first time climbing - enjoyable whilst a little challenging. Need lead to protect well. Jul 1, 2012

Joshinator Longmont, Colorado   5.6

[Hide Comment] Not the easiest 5.6 but a 5.6 nonetheless. Really fun climbing. Oct 11, 2012

Rodger Raubach Billings, MT   5.6

[Hide Comment] The accident rate on this climb is high only because it's probably the most popular "moderate" climb in Eldorado. Not a good beginner lead. May 24, 2013

Eric Thomas Colorado

[Hide Comment] Is there really a second and third pitch to this? If you don't go up Reggae (e.g. go up the left side), it's practically a walk up (or rather what a non-sandbagged 5.6 should be). Apr 22, 2014

Russ Keane Salt Lake

[Hide Comment] A couple of interesting moves.... Pretty good little route, but after the bulge/roof at the beginning of pitch 2, it's a throw away climb. Not a classic IMO. Oct 2, 2014

dvdcmiller

[Hide Comment] We started at the ''Caplyso'' base and followed the ''Reggae'' route higher up. Wind Tower is sometimes described as a ''Choose Your Own Adventure'' of 5.7 routes. Quique led four 1/2 pitches (meaning the 60m rope got to the halfway mark or less each time). Only the first belay station had bolts - it can be climbed and rappeled with a 60m rope. I suspect aggressive climbers could do this in 2 pitches with a 70m rope. There were plenty of good holds throughout the route. The hardest move for me was at the top of the 2 pitch - I slipped a couple times there trying to get up and behind the rock there. The route follows below and east of the topmost part of the Wind Tower. This next to last part is an exposed walk around and down. There are 2 bolts to rappel from - the rappel is short, maybe 50 feet max and can be done easily on a 60m rope. We had warm weather, despite snow remaining in the shaded locations (from when it was -10 F a couple weekends ago). All but the base of the Wind Tower is in the sun in winter. Key locations: Belay station 1 at N39.93150 W105.28295 at 6,266'. Belay station 2 at N39.93164 W105.28281 at 6,343'. Belay station 3 at N39.93178 W105.28267 at 6,419'. Belay station 4 at N39.93211 W105.28283 at 6,239'. Highpoint above the belay station at N39.93211 W105.28283 at 6,239'. The rappel station at N39.93226 W105.28276 at 6,187'. Some photos at: flickr.com/photos/19047247@N04/sets/72157649557439586/ Dec 6, 2014

Karissa Colorado Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] Climbed today to get up to Reggae. The sling from the purple cam fixed on the upper portion of calypso is gone, the cam is still there. There will always be a soft spot in my heart for this pitch. Jul 21, 2015

henrano Denver, Colorado

[Hide Comment] I placed what I felt was a bomber #13 BD nut at the crux. It slotted in really nicely behind the thick flake that you pull around. Problem is, I slotted it behind a flake. Wondering if you think that rock would have been solid enough to hold in the case of a decent fall. In the picture labeled "Kasi cleaning up the first pitch of Calypso", the climbers right hand is on the block/flake I placed behind. Aug 4, 2015

Bob Carmichael Boulder   5.7

[Hide Comment] There is no way this is 5.6 climbing. It is a 5.7 1st pitch, and you really need to be careful and creative with your pro, i.e. looking for solid cam and nut placements before launching on. I've been leading this since the late '60s, and while I'm now in my late 60s, the flake that fell off high on pitch one has made it a grade harder. Not to be underestimated, and frankly the 5.6 rating is probably attracting a lot of people who evidently manage to get hurt leading this pitch. Both Bob Dugan and I confirm that it is 5.7 with creative pro techniques on demand but a nice sequence of moves indeed. Sep 2, 2015

M.Ish Salt Lake City, UT   5.7

[Hide Comment] If you are comfortable with Bastille Crack being 5.7, don't expect to be equally comfortable on this route. I echo the sentiments stated above. Tenuous slabby footwork and creative placements are required to send. There are two starts to this route: the unprotectable chimney to the right, or the slabby unprotectable face to the left. Fun climbing if beginning with the mindset that it is not as easy as you think it will be... Sep 29, 2015

Nick Sweeney Spokane, WA   5.7

[Hide Comment] We climbed this to the top, which was a chossy nightmare with terrible pro. I recommend doing the first pitch and rapping if you have a long enough rope or two. I thought the gear on the first pitch was fine, but I normally climb in the Cascades. I completely disagree with the need for a bolt to protect the start.... I'm certainly not a bad-ass (or even a good climber) and I felt fine on it. Oct 10, 2015

Michael Parker Belgrade, MT   5.7

[Hide Comment] I thoroughly enjoyed this route, though I am confident the 1st pitch was at least 5.7. I went straight up the slab and though a little tenuous, it worked out just fine. The crack doesn't offer much pro, but I was confident with the pieces that I got in and I didn't feel too runout. Traversing out right around that first roof was very interesting, but the holds are all there. Not a great beginner's lead, but certainly doesn't require a bolt to protect the opening moves. I think the opening sequence gets you into the mindset needed to get through the rest of the route comfortably. We went to the top, hopping on Recon for the remaining pitches to the summit. It gets a bit loose and chossy up there, but it was still a fun climb, and it is worth checking the summit out at least once. I felt the descent was a bit spicy, and we chose to rap rather than downclimb. Mar 29, 2017

Rob L Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] I climbing this today and did the direct start. It was all there moving up on the slab with smallish crimps and small feet options. Fairly quickly you get to a bomber hold so you can collect yourself before moving up. I actually placed a small BD x4 offset that seems good enough and worthwhile. As you keep moving, the holds improve, and then you get to a great stance to set a good cam into the start of the crack. I had a little trouble protecting the roof on top of pitch 1 but found a nut and small cam placement. I found the rest of the gear pretty decent. Pitch 2 was fairly easy in comparison. My partner didn't find where you can thread the rock with a sling for the anchor which makes for a much better anchor. It's just up on the left but before the next shelf of the cave. Back in the cave the rock is crumbly. The walkoff is a bit exposed, but there are great holds and feet options. Aug 20, 2017

Tommy Copeland Denver, CO

[Hide Comment] Really great introduction to multi-pitch. Second pitch you can follow the route (5.5) or connect Reggae for an awesome 5.8 flake with a hard finish. Great exposure and good view of the canyon below. Oct 18, 2017

Megan H Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] If you left your helmet at the base of Calypso on 3/23/2018, shoot me a message! Mar 23, 2018

Chris McCaffrey Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] If you’re following and the leader doesn’t place a directional or any pro for the last 30 feet (shoutout to my partner Anne for being significantly more badass than me) or if you just want to have some extra fun, you can traverse right onto the face. The face was really fun with some thoughtful footwork, and I enjoyed it immensely. May 7, 2019

Ryan Bennick

[Hide Comment] When directly under the roof, you can reach up for some holds. There is a very loose block, the size of a microwave oven, that I was afraid to touch after first putting a hand on it. Be careful with that one. Aug 10, 2019

Tre' Seymour Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] That was a good climb, I fell a tiny bit in the crux...and then the sun came out :). My fingers were like ice! Lol Mar 23, 2020

Prav C Arvada, CO   5.7

[Hide Comment] Very fun and heady 1st pitch. For me the headiest part was just after the start, as I found it slabby and hard to protect. Make sure to protect before and after the crux traverse (plenty of placements to do so), my follower slipped and fell near the end of P1 before the ledge, but gear prevented a big swing. Worth roping up if you do the “walk off” traverse left after P2, as it is quite exposed. Aug 10, 2020

Hunter Gallagher

[Hide Comment] If I feel like messing with someone (friends and family), I set a TR on P1 and tell the second to clean. Of course there's that fixed TCU after the roof that been there for years. Watch them try to get it out. LOL. Apr 28, 2021

Doug Simpson Westminster, CO   5.6

[Hide Comment] Did the first pitch, on a very hot 90 degree day. This made the well-traveled hold extra slippery, so I took my time and chalked frequently. That gave me time to carefully examine the hype and investigate why this route may be so popular. While I enjoyed the route, I don't understand the hype. Perhaps I didn't climb it in the same style as others. I really enjoyed the start, I love slabby traverses. After nesting some gear where you have the option to do the 5.8 direct, I moved out into the undercling/ smear section and around the corner. The holds were much better than they looked. I should have placed a #1 here but thought there might be better pro above. There was not - and this lead to a 20 ft. runout until a #2 placement. Boy oh, boy is this route polished smooth. It felt really cool to experience a piece of Eldorado history. Might be better in the cold! Aug 24, 2021

adamsc Arvada, CO   5.7 PG13

[Hide Comment] Having done most of the notable 6s, 7s, and 8s in the park at this point and having done this twice, there is no way this is 5.6. It's a solid 5.7 with some finicky gear and a couple of consequential falls are possible. The movement for P1 is also inconsistent and smeary or off balance (for the grade). Don't wait in line to get on this one. It's only really worth doing to get to Reggae, IMO. Jul 16, 2022

Dave Clark 5.10 Golden, CO   5.6

[Hide Comment] I've climbed Calypso P1 four times over 20 years, and it's good, classic Eldo 5.6. Have climbed P2 twice, which is good steep fun for the first 15 ft then meh 5.3 to the belay at the "walkoff" ledge, which isn't very ledgy. I have no idea where P3 is supposed to go: a) the exposed walk-off (scramble) which many will want to rope up for? b) P3 of Wind Ridge? c) Around the corner to the right and up the face to the top? Not sure what whomever called this a 3-pitch climb had in mind, but it's still fun. Enjoy the quandary/confusion. Apr 14, 2023

Colin Leahy Eldorado Springs   5.7

[Hide Comment] Having done most moderate climbs in the park and this 10+ times, the first pitch is a 5.7 PG-13 climb, and if you get all out of whack on the balance sections, it can feel like 5.8 (how is West Overhang considered 5.7 and this isn't?!). The gear is finicky under the roof and when pulling through and out (crux), which is not a good place for a new trad leader to learn their gear was bad with a potential swing. I absolutely love the first pitch and then connecting with Reggae is close to a classic. Sep 15, 2023

Jeremy Dumont   5.7

[Hide Comment] I agree with most of the sentiment here that this is a 5.7- at least. How is West Overhang rated a 5.7 and this isn't? Did not lead this, so can't comment on pro placement, but it did seem after the undercling section, it was a bit runout to the anchor. We left a jammed #1 cam on P2 in the crack right before you pull over. If you can get it out props to you, keep that sucker. Definitely a lot easier second pitch, and there is a non-existent P3 (unless you count the walk off/scramble). Fun route, but I wouldn't call it a classic. Oct 16, 2023

Aaron Gusler Harrisonburg, VA   5.6

[Hide Comment] This felt pretty stiff for 5.6, which means it’s probably spot on for Eldo. That being said, it’s not too pumpy or difficult but perhaps thoughtful and engaging. P1 is a 3 star lead for sure. P2 is only fun right at the start, then it becomes more of a scramble to the chossy “walkoff". If I did it again, I’d just climb P1 and lower off. Oct 15, 2024