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I, Robot

5.7, Trad, TR,  Avg: 1.9 from 247 votes
FA: Kurt Gray and Charly Oliver, 1979
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Happy Hour Crag
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Description

Start in the shallow, right-facing dihedral, about 2 feet to the left of the tree. Climb up to the ledge 10 feet up and slightly left, and then follow the crack running up and right to the top.

Protection

Look for the two trees, and bring long slings (20 feet).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

I, Robot, 5.7.
[Hide Photo] I, Robot, 5.7.
Per [[10481]]:<br>
<br>
1 - I, Robot.<br>
2 - Are We Not Men.<br>
3 - Twofers.<br>
4 - Twofers Bypass.
[Hide Photo] Per Mike Morley: 1 - I, Robot. 2 - Are We Not Men. 3 - Twofers. 4 - Twofers Bypass.
Near the crux at the bottom.
[Hide Photo] Near the crux at the bottom.
I, Robot in the center. Fun finger locks at the top.
[Hide Photo] I, Robot in the center. Fun finger locks at the top.
Steve T. leading I, Robot.
[Hide Photo] Steve T. leading I, Robot.
Getting into the thin section.
[Hide Photo] Getting into the thin section.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This route can also be led with a standard rack, up to a #3.5 Camalot. The crack that I went up, moving left to right diagonally as you look up was flaring, but it did take two cams. Leading this is certainly an option before it gets covered in top ropes, although the flaring cracks made the pro less than ideal.

Not just for top roping! Sep 23, 2002
[Hide Comment] If you lead this, make sure to have plenty of small gear for the thin fingers crack up above. Small nuts and Aliens work well. Some good finger locks in the crack, but the feet are mostly smears at the crux (a small bulge) - harder than it looks from below, but 5.7 feels about right. May 28, 2005
[Hide Comment] Cool crux, it's lots of fun if you only use the finger crack and don't wimp out and go left. There is a fixed stopper at the crux as of 3/18/06. I would say only using the finger crack by itself could go at 5.8. Mar 21, 2006
Jo Holloway
  5.7
[Hide Comment] I just did this as my first 5.7 lead. I found it relatively straight-forward to sew up the finger-crack on the upper part of the pitch with finger-sized cams (e.g., blue to yellow Aliens). If you have small-to-medium sized hands, you can get in some great finger locks that will get you through the smeary crux with limited fretting. Sep 30, 2006
mt.wilson
Golden, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Sweet finger locks at the top. I would have given 3 stars if it were longer.... Mar 15, 2010
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] Taken direct, this has a well-protected UK 5a move in the top crack, so I don't understand the 5.7 rating. Oct 14, 2011
Joshinator
Longmont, Colorado
  5.7
[Hide Comment] I gave this three stars, because the climbing is really great with a lot of fun moves, especially for such a moderate grade. Nov 19, 2011
Jim Fox
Westminster, CO
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Top half of climb is 3 stars, Great finger crack . Fun climb. The start was a little awkward but not difficult.

I'd agree with 5.7+ if you use just the crack on the upper part. Jul 6, 2014
David Tennant
Denver, CO
  5.8
[Hide Comment] All about that finger crack. There were also super straightforward gear placements for an anchor when you gain the ledge, so it would be pretty good for setting up a toprope.

Definitely give it a higher grade if starting in the corner immediately next to the tree, as well as if you stay with the finger crack that takes you to the same ledge as the 5.5 route to the left. May 22, 2015
Caleb Schwarz
Colorado Springs, CO
[Hide Comment] On lead, if you stick strictly to the initial corner and the upper finger crack, it turns into quite the challenging route. Flared finger section that's a bit difficult to protect before the awesome last 10 feet of finger crack. Jul 28, 2017
Keith W
Westminster
  5.7
[Hide Comment] This is a very fun warm-up. The pro is decent, and the finger crack is awesome. For such a short pitch, this packs in a good time. Bomber finger locks and just a tiny bit heady for 5.7. Get after it! Oct 7, 2017
Aaron Lozier
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] My first 5.7 trad lead! (did my first 5.8, Grin, shortly after). Didn't place pro for maybe the first 20 feet. More or less stuck with the finger crack, used all my gear up pretty quickly, and was run out probably the last 10 feet. A sketchy moment when I threw for the ledge and there was a ton of dirt. Got my heart pumping for sure. Great route! Sep 30, 2020
[Hide Comment] The finger cracks at the top were challenging for my bigger fingers. Oct 22, 2022
Brent Kelly
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Not sure if this is the exact reference the FA team had in mind, but as the album "I, Robot" by The Alan Parsons Project was released just a couple years prior to the FA, it seems probable.

Magnificent album. Give it a listen! youtu.be/8ng6N5oXZ9M. May 28, 2023