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North Face Left

5.7, Trad, 2 pitches,  Avg: 1.7 from 6 votes
FA: Richard Rossiter, 1996.
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Lost Flatiron
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down

Description

2 pitches. Start 6 feet from left edge (ramp) of the flatiron's face....head straight up beautiful slab with decent cracks here and there for pro. There is a nice wide crack for fun about halfway up. Can belay at any of numerous ledges after half way or more. Crux is going around the LEFT side of a small tree (right on edge, much exposure) 50 feet from the top. Continue on steep slab to summit. It's not climbed often so a nice moderate isolated route.

Protection

Standard rack.

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.7
[Hide Comment] If the rock seems crappy, then you are on the little buttress about 50 yards down the hill too far. Go up and around to get to the right rock. Take a single 60M rope and do it in a single nice pitch, as the route is less than 200 feet long. Rossiter's description of a crux at about 200 feet up would have to be correct. Anyone climbing over 200' on that rock is INCREDIBLE. Seriously, it is nice and it's probably easier than 5.7. It climbs and protects like a flatiron. Take a single 60M rope and do it in a single nice pitch. Sep 27, 2001
[Hide Comment] Granted, the approach takes some time, and the descent is steep and messy. In addition, it seems less than 5.7, and I would say there really isn't a crux. However, I thought this was a terrific moderate climb with good pro and neat exposure. Also, the views to Blob and Eagle are excellent; it's a fine place to be on a sunny day. Although it can be done in one long pitch, two pitches keeps you in sight of your partner for the most part. I think this climb is well worth doing -- once. Aug 13, 2002
[Hide Comment] Definitely a one pitch route. I seem to remember that Rossiter's book says it's even three pitches long...now that's an overstatement if I've ever heard one! Pretty straight forward, no funny traverses that would cause rope drag or anything, so there really is no reason it shouldn't be done as one pitch, seeing as how it isn't even 200 feet. Oh yeah, the very bottom balance slab getting up on the face is the crux and didn"t feel any harder than five seven with the rest being five five or easier (forgive me my keyboard just fritzed and I can no longer type commas or numbers). Happy climbing! Sep 27, 2002
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
[Hide Comment] Climbed this on 12/28 after playing around on Huston Crack. It took some effort to find the rock, and I wish I had read Tony's comment before being there -- the buttress that's directly downhill from the Lost Flatiron threw me off a little. I probably took a line that was a bit too far to the right of the arete, because it didn't feel like there were any moves even remotely approaching 5.7. Jan 1, 2003