PRINT: Climb L of Lochluster, CO Ice & Mixed

L of Lochluster

WI4 M4, Trad, Mixed, Ice, 110 ft (33 m),

Avg: 2.4 from 10 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > RMNP - Mixed/Ice > Glacier Gorge T… > Loch Vale Gorge

Access Issue: Regulations Details

General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.

Description

Fun, neat, rampy, route in fat years. More challenging in lean years. Loch Vale Gorge. Nearly where the trail comes in from the main trail. Pins are in situ near the start. Can be frozen moss to exit. 120 feet. Rap off trees. When in just right can be the most fun moderate route in the area. (Long walkoff to the left past Mixed Emotions).

[Eds. this was previously misnamed in the database]

There is a direct start to the right M6? A yellow C3 Camalot helps protect the start.

Protection

Screws, pins in situ, possibly rock gear in really lean conditions. There have been at least 2 different top anchor points used.

Toprope Protection

2 ropes off trees above.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

11/19/96

Bert on the mixed portion of the route. Mid-Nov. 2013.

Direct start, low res. Ben R?

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado

WI4 M4

It's in again. However, it is thinner than this picture this year. 1st time it has looked reasonable since 1996 to me. Currently, however, the ice may be too thin for much ice pro. Rock is fairly compact. Nov 19, 2002

Eran Shileikis
Colorado

A cordelette and/or long slings are great for slinging around the ice pillars on this route. There is only one rap ring on the slings up there though --- it might be good to bring a back-up biner/ring. Other than that, it looks like you could actually keep climbing another short vertical section up and left of the tree and then rap off of the Crystal Meth (aka Lochness Monster?) anchor up higher. Nov 20, 2007