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Green Monster Aid Crack
5.10d,
Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 3.6 from 47
votes
FA: FFA Jim Knight
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Southern Wasatch
> Rock Canyon
> Green Monster Slab
Description
This thin crack to the left of the main
Green Monster crack provides a pumpy feast of balance, technique, face moves, and jamming. The climbing goes with tricky moves for five to ten feet followed by a good resting spot where you can set your protection.
Protection
Full set of nuts and some small cams. Double chain anchors at top.
Location
Approach via the main
Rock Canyon trail and then follow the trail on the right just before you reach
The Kitchen. Go past the
Bolt Slab (on your left) and scramble up the Class 4 approach to the base of the
Green Monster Slab.
There are two bolt anchors here that help to protect the belayer until you get your first few pieces in. However, the
Aid Crack route starts about 10 feet down from these anchors and so you will need to belay high up, extend the anchors, or forgo their use.
If setting up as a top rope continue up the scree gully past
Tinker Toys and scramble across the ledges to the top of the
Green Monster Slab. It might be safer to use the main
crack anchors instead of the
Aid Crack ones, but you will pendulum out to the right if you pop off. If top roping please put draws on the chains in order to prevent destructive wear.
Orem, UT
You don't even have to be tall. You just have to know how to use your feet for the long reaches. I couldn't feel my fingers, so I have no idea how the crimps really were, but on TR, you can trust anything!
Fun route, I'll wait for better temps before I lead this. Nov 23, 2007
Pocatello, ID
Pleasant Grove, UT
Salt Lake City, Utah
Provo, UT