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Routes in Pentapitch Area
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Dike from Hell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Endless Torment T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flashdance T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Ginseng T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jackalope T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Japanese Terraces T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lesbian Seagulls S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Littlefoot T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Loch Ness Monster T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Neuromancer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Nubbins Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Nubbins to Nowhere T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nuke the Whales T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Pearls Before Swine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pentapass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pentapitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pudgy Gumbies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Sasquatch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | FA: Rick Reese, Dick Ream, Lloyd Anderson, 1963 FFA: George Lowe, Paul Andersen, 1966 |
| Page Views: | 4,264 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Nathan Fisher on Aug 7, 2005 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse.
Details
Little Cottonwood Access Update
Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA saltlakeclimbers.org has a positive relationship with the landowner.
The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.
Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA saltlakeclimbers.org has a positive relationship with the landowner.
The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.
Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
Description
This is the thin seam that starts below and to the right of Pentapitch's final pitch. The moves to the crack are fine. The moves through the 2nd pin are very thin, and the face doesn't help that much. The tenuos nature of the moves doesn't lend oneself to dallying around and placing gear. Once to the 2nd pin, the route eases to a 5.9/5.8 difficulty with nice finger cracks and flaky rock. If climbed more it would be a better upper half.
Protection
There are 2 old pins on the route, one that protects the crux. The anchor consists of "bad" slings around a tree. To TR it throw another sling around the tree as a directional and use Pentapitch's anchors. The gear through the thin section is just that...thin. I mocked it up, and could find nothing before the 2nd pin that would satisfy my need for gear. Above the 2nd pin, small to medium gear would work.
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