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Disco Chicken
5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British R
Avg: 3.1 from 53
votes
Routes in Waterfront, The
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Acapulco Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Author of Salvation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Baja Breakdown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Baptism of Fire T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Barefoot in Barbados S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Beam Me Up Scotty T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Broken Gully T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Certain Death T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chickenhead Holiday T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Clip it or Skip It S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cold Duck T WI4- R |
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Comfort of Strangers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Comfort Zone S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Disco Captain T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Disco Chicken S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Disco Duck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Disco Lizard T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c A1 |
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Enjoy the Silence S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fat Agnes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Flirtin' Death T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Flown the Coop S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Floyd the Barber S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gritman's Traverse T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Head On T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Helstirb Grundlip TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jaws of Flesh T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Just Hanging Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Leap of Faith S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Losing My Religion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Love at First Sight S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Mantels to Mazatlan S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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On the Waterfront T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Pitmans traverse (Witness the Pitness) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Religion Poisons Everything T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Seams Like the Seashore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2 |
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Shady Spur Crack, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Slice of Bread T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 PG13 |
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Sultans of Swing S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Tijuana Donkey Show T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Too Close For Comfort S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Waterfront Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Rotert, McMillan 1982 |
| Page Views: | 1,991 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Nathan Fisher on Mar 11, 2005 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
As you head west underneath the Waterfront, you will come to an obvious gully with black streaked rock, and a roof above a ledge. In this gully on the left wall are 3 routes. This is the left bolted line. It starts in a groove system with a bit of crack work, and then it enters a ladder of chickenheads. Good moves, excellent balance required. Consistently hard climbing forces you to rest stances which luckily can be had. The line is funky, but who said chickenheads had to be in a straight line.
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