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Out of Touch
5.9+ R,
Sport, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 2.7 from 83
votes
FA: Brian and Vicki Smoot, 1989
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Parley's Canyon
> Iron Curtain Wall
Description
The second bolted line from the right. This is the one that works the roofs near the top. It starts thin and entails good edging and good mantling ability (as do half the routes on this wall). The 1st bolt is high and hard to get to unless you find a sidepull. Getting to the 3rd bolt involves possible ledge fall, hence the "s" rating. What makes this climb a classic in my book are a few things. 1) It is a route with enough length. 2) It is consistently 5.9, yes.. it eases up a bit here and there, but it isn't a 5.6 with a 5.9 move. 3) good rock 4) Varied climbing exists on this route. Juggy roofs, laybacking, sidepulls, thin edges, mantles, smears, friction holds, what else could you ask for. Oh!! **Point 4) An airy finish.** Now what more could you ask for.
[Hide Photo] 2013 May Photo of Out of Touch from the bottom looking up. This photo is only missing the bottom 1/8 of the climb. The bolts follow the red line on the route, after the overhang bolts you finish…
[Hide Comment] If you only climb one route on Iron Curtain wall, make sure it's "Out of Touch." A sidepull unlocks your way to the first bolt, and good mantling is a must. The lower part of the route is a bit run out, so fall below bolt #3 would be messy. Some nice juggy holds get you to a cool roof sequence. One bit of advice: avoid the holds right of the roof, in the section of broken rock. Instead, find a nice, positive series of holds left above the roof and pull to the anchors. Overall, the route is top notch and highly recommended.
Jul 3, 2004
[Hide Comment] Yeh, this is a good route. It looks like it would be the hardest on the wall thanx to the roof but... it's not. Whatever you do, make sure you follow the bolts over that roof! Don't chicken out and go right. The holds are there. Just suck it up and go for it! Great moves with fun exposure.
Oct 5, 2004
[Hide Comment] This one has the most exciting mantles of all the routes on the Iron Curtain wall is you start it straight below the bolt. To avoid the PG13/R moves you can traverse on the ramp from the right and clip the bolt then try the mantle on TR. A couple of longer slings for the last 2 bolts make for a smoother ride.
Jun 9, 2009
[Hide Comment] Just before the roof you can get the best knee bar i've ever had. just adds to the fun of this route. Definately don't cheat yourself and go right. going straight up over the roof where the bolt is was awesome.
Jul 5, 2012
[Hide Comment] The movements on this route are great! The first bolt is too high; you could end up injured if you fall here. And some of the bolts on the route are a bit unsafely spaced. If you don't mind a little spice, I'd definitely recommend this route.
Jul 25, 2014
[Hide Comment] First bolt is a great reminder that you've spent too much time in the gym. The climbing to the first bolt is easy but a little committing. If you think you'll break an ankle then tr the route, or rap the route and start with the first bolt clipped. I wouldn't consider it PG-13 and certainly not R, since you have a massive ledge to stand on. Yes you need to do a mantle, but it will be a good mental warm up for the harder routes to the left (that also have similar mantle moves). This is my favorite 5.9 in parleys (haven't gotten on Riptide yet). Fairly sustained, and you actually have to work a little to pull the roof! I would not consider this route run out, unless your a gym climber.
Apr 9, 2015
[Hide Comment] A bolt has been added at the bottom of this route. I guess it could allow for a direct start but the moves would be harder than anything else on the climb. You couldn't easily clip it doing the normal foot traverse to the original first bolt so I did a hand traverse and then mantle to use it. Think there is still decking potential if you blow the clip on the now second bolt.
Jun 1, 2016
Avg: 2.7 from 83
votes
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Small Lake, UT
To avoid the PG13/R moves you can traverse on the ramp from the right and clip the bolt then try the mantle on TR.
A couple of longer slings for the last 2 bolts make for a smoother ride. Jun 9, 2009
SLC, UT
Salt Lake City
Liberty Wells, UT
SLC, UT