PRINT: Rock Climb Mantel Variation, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Mantel Variation

5.9, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 2.2 from 61 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Gate Buttress > Schoolroom Area

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

Climb the ledged face, past the three bolts. If you can climb this climb, then you can mantel. Very enjoyable, just short.

Protection

Slings are around the tree at the top, but bring your own just in case. 3 draws for the climb.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Mantel

Mantle Variation of Schoolroom. Brian Smoot on point 17 April 2004.

Mantle Variation

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT

5.9

Great var. start to schoolroom west. It adds some spice. Very good mantels. Oct 23, 2005

Brian in SLC
Sandy, UT

Route in the photo does look like the Mantle Variation. Someone added several bolts to this route. Was an established line without the bolts. Seem to recall that a bunch of folks (me included in '85) had led it sans bolts. Sorta surprised it hasn't been chopped, but, have to admit last time I led it, I clipped them darn things...ha ha.

I think there was also a variation that used a piton way out to the right as well (long gone by now). But, I seem to recall most folks used the line protected by the bolts. Described in several guidebooks prior to the bolts being added.

-Brian in SLC Jul 19, 2006

Brian in SLC
Sandy, UT

The mantle variation was in Desperate Grace in 1975, Wasatch Granite in 1977 and Wasatch Rock Climbs in 1984. As well as the latest Ruckman guide. Was perhaps more clearly stated as following the water streak in those earlier guides. As also mentioned that folks more commonly top roped it, but, after talking with a couple of the old guard (guidebook authors), I'm sure it was led way back in the day. No question in my, or the guidebook authors' minds that the bolts are ON the mantle variation. There just isn't any other mantle-esque terrain around there, and, its a natural line. Commonly done as a alternate start to schoolroom, or, a TR. Jul 20, 2006

Brian in SLC
Sandy, UT

The picture I posted under my profile is of one of the guidebook authors...on the route.

And, DT concurred as well (we sat at the base of the route and discussed all the bolts).

I believe every bolt below where the standard Schoolroom route traverses across is on what is/was known as the mantle variation. The bolt line follows the natural weaknesses. Same route I lead ground up on site in the mid 80's (and was commonly done prior).

I'm not saying that the bolts should be yanked. I clipped the darn things last time I led it, for sure. I guess my days of soloing that type of terrain are gone...

Its a fun variation and a neat way to start schoolroom. May 23, 2007

Brian in SLC
Sandy, UT

No way, that guy's a hack.

Pretty sure Pete C, BS, etc etc had lead it prior to '85. I recall many folks that knew it'd been led sans bolts prior to '85.

I'll bet a whole slug of folks led it back in the day. 70's at least. Given the Lowe clan floatin' around, etc, wouldn't be surprised if it was done in the 60's. Jun 12, 2007

triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT

5.9

If you have a hard time getting Dennis Turville's number, I could probably get it.. Jun 15, 2007

Robert Shortt
San Francisco, CA

5.10-

Mantle is 5.9 eh? Maybe in 50 degree weather, in the 80's. Jul 8, 2016

greggrylls
Salt Lake City

The first mantle is the hardest. The second is very straightforward but a fall wouldn't be clean. Found out I need to do more one-legged squats as I ended up doing the old push on the leg to straighten in. Good fun Nov 17, 2019

james climbs

5.9

I double-mantled off the sloping edge, got my feet up, and balanced-stood up. Goodness! I need to do this more often. Apr 7, 2022

Lenny Nelson

Back in the day, we used to put a pin high up in the crack on the left to practice the mantels. Made for a hell of swing if you failed, but, that beat decking out. Sometimes, for the first mantel, we would just stand on the ledge and spot each other. Thank God no body popped off. However, as a result of the earlier efforts, I can attest to the mantels going free in the summer of 69. I followed the darker streaks to the V shaped notch. Who did the first free assent, I don't know. Stories have it being done back in 1963. I can't see that having been a problem. Dec 7, 2022