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Routes in Coffin Buttress
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C.P.O.D. T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Closed Casket Variation S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Coffin Roof T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Coffin, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Exsqueeze Me S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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No Star Tuesday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Rightside Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Strewn Masters of Hore S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Viewing, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Ruckman & Douglass '87 |
| Page Views: | 8,103 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Gram on May 13, 2004 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
The Viewing is an excellent face climb on the right side of the Coffin Buttress. This climb is often toproped from the anchors to the right of the Coffin Crack, which avoids some big runouts between bolts. To do this, set a TR after climbing the Coffin.
Climb the fingery 5.9 opening to the Coffin (or traverse in from the left). Keep going up the Coffin until a traverse right is possible above a black chickenhead. This is above the first two bolts and piton on the right for the climb "Closed Casket". Then follow the thin edges up past 4 bolts to a set of chain anchors.
Descent) Rap with one rope (60m is preferable) back to the ground. A 50m rope might be a stretch.
Climb the fingery 5.9 opening to the Coffin (or traverse in from the left). Keep going up the Coffin until a traverse right is possible above a black chickenhead. This is above the first two bolts and piton on the right for the climb "Closed Casket". Then follow the thin edges up past 4 bolts to a set of chain anchors.
Descent) Rap with one rope (60m is preferable) back to the ground. A 50m rope might be a stretch.
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