PRINT: Rock Climb Ginseng, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Ginseng

5.10a, Trad,

Avg: 2 from 25 votes
FA: Mike Tea, Roxanne Tea 1995
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Pentapitch Area

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details

Little Cottonwood Access Update

Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA saltlakeclimbers.org has a positive relationship with the landowner.

The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.

Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.

Description

A fun route if you have done sasquatch a million times! Step right off of the sasquatch ledge, trend right toward double cracks, straight up offwidth to tree, left out onto face to top. reachy 10a move protected with brass nuts (maybe an alien), very cool, and a fun alternative. A touch trickier than sasquatch, but not as sustained.

Protection

standard rack, handful of brass.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Andy on the upper reaches of Ginseng.

Start of Ginseng. It goes up the middle crack, although you can use all 3 for gear depending on what you want.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Anonymous Coward

5.10a

This is a fun, though sadly, overlooked route. Give it a shot if you are waiting for Sasquatch, or to tick another route on teh wall, but bring some brass, or maybe a black Alien (I used that). Too bad it doesn't get climbed enough to keep the grass out of the moves down low. If it was anywhere than next to Sasquatch, it would be climbed more. At the top, angle left, and climb the slab to Sasquatch anchors. May 23, 2005

Nathan Fisher
St George

5.10a

A fun layaway sequence down low leads to a boring offwidth that climbs like a gully. This in turn, leads to a fun short face. Too inconsistent to be good, but worth doing. Aug 2, 2005

superagave

I beleive that the FA belongs to a Mike Tea Mar 3, 2006

Nathan Fisher
St George

5.10a

Brass really aren't needed. I used a Blue Wild Country Zero, and a Purple DMM, and like a 6 wall nut, maybe a 5, to protect on the lower cracks. All good pieces. Exciting lead. Jun 30, 2006

Tea	[Hide Comment] looking bushy these days, add one bottle of roundup to the rack! Best to link directly into littlefoot for a nice long pitch. Jul 14, 2007

Charlie S
NV

I believe the initial "barn door" moves as described in the guidebook were for when the anchor was not present. The crack above takes standard nuts or a green alien down low, opening up to a nice #0.3-#0.4 at the top before the final opening moves.

The crux is short and ends at a glory jug. Sew it up or gun for it!

The climb is definitely worthy and a great alternative if Sasquatch has a queue. Sep 1, 2014

Tea	[Hide Comment] This climb starts off the Sasquatch belay ledge, NOT the newer rap station by the tree. The "Barn Door Moves" are trending right up flakes into the three cracks in this picture. Sep 12, 2016

Jeremy Polk
Sandy, UT

I’m guessing the Granite Guide has it wrong since Mike Tea is the FA and says it starts from the Sasquatch Ledge because the book says it starts from the other ledge to the right. Aug 6, 2019

Tea	[Hide Comment] Correct. The new granite Guidebook got the description, as well as the route topo, TOTALLY wrong. Do your homework guidebook authors. Step right off the sasquatch ledge and go for it! Nov 18, 2019

Tyler Phillips
Cottonwood Heights, UT

@Tea homework was done. But we are also human. Oct 10, 2023

Tea	[Hide Comment] Tyler Phillips, fair enough, amigo. Cheers to all your hard work in the canyon. Oct 18, 2023