This route was the best Christmas present I ever got.
Imagine climbing a steep sunny granite slab on near-perfect rock for almost 700 feet of edging and smearing. Imagine being surrounded by a sea of granite domes and trees in 65 degree weather in the middle of winter. Imagine watching Cotimundi's eating berries while approaching the base of the route and then rapping off in a beautiful Southwest desert sunset. Imagine all of that, or maybe just go climb this route and experience it instead.
Originally put up with a different first pitch, a grungy crack system around the buttress to the left of where it starts now.. The entire route had only 12 bolts on it. The first pitch as it is now was done ground up and all of the bolts were drilled without hooks or falls second time up the route. Third pitch was originally climbed a bit farther right for about 40 feet where it joined the pitch as it is now. Bolts were added to anchors and the big runout sections. At one point on the 4th ascent and on last pitch with not enough bolts holes were drilled and friends put them in on the fifth ascent.
Find this route by hiking to the base of Westworld Dome and skirting in to the base of a massive buttress, perhaps 160 feet tall and 10-15 degrees off of vertical, left of center. This is the beginning of the climb and it sports a line of bolts.
P1: 5.10c, 160'. Follow a line of bolts past the first crux, perhaps 1/3 of the way up the slab. This is runout at the top and the easiest line runs slightly left of center above the last bolt. If I recall correctly, this runout can be mitigated with a stopper placement if you desire to do so. You'll end on a ledge where some gear or a cordalette will make a good belay. This pitch sets the tone for the rest of the route.
P2: 5.8+, 60'. Look back and left to see a small corner with a crack. Climb up this, protecting with 1.5 to 2.5" gear to reach a bolted belay after 60 feet or so. This pitch is the only "easy" pitch along the route, and is out of character with the majority of the climbing.
P3: 5.10c, 150'. Climb up another line of bolts arcing slightly right for a short distance and continue 2/3 of the way up the pitch to the crux where the holds are incredibly sloper and small, but still good. Finish the pitch at another bolted belay. This pitch, like the first, is a classic on it's own merit.
P4: 5.10b, 160'. Climb up and right from the belay to reach the next solid section of wall. After a little more 5.10b slabbing you'll reach a section with larger and more positive holds, these end soon enough though and you'll move up and left again to reach a blunt rib of rock onto more thin 5.10 face moves. Another classic pitch.
P5: 5.10c, 150'. Tired? Are your tips sore? You can ease back to 5.10a or lower climbing now... almost! Step up and right off of this belay and make a right-hand sequence (10c) though a set of sharp, crystaline pockets to reach the final crimpers before the angle eases off. From there continue to move up and right to near the massive corner overhead. You can even move right far enough to get a stem or two for rest. Finish the route to another set of bolts before rapping off.
Rap the route with two (2) 60 meter ropes. 50M ropes might work, but I have not verified this.
Boulder, CO
Los Alamos, NM
In my opinion, suspect protection does not add to the thrill of a route. If someone out there wants some help replacing these bolts, I would be more than willing to spend a weekend helpin out! Dec 15, 2003
az / pa
Tucson, Arizona
nyc
PAYSON
Tucson
Eric, thanks for putting up the route.
Mary, thanks for telling me about this climb and climbed it with me. Sep 27, 2007
Portland, OR
Santa Fe, NM
Im glad to hear that those buttonheads are solid out here. There are a few places where you depend on them for bodily safety. Feb 17, 2009
Tucson
Sierra Vista, AZ
Bend, OR
Pretoria, ZA
Grand Junction, CO
We did the bolted arete variation at the top of pitch 5 which I thought was super fun! I went straight up from the arete and I built and anchor w/ chicken heads on the top of the dome. From here go down to a ramp to find the rap anchors. Oct 19, 2010
Here
Portland, OR
The first pitch is the only pitch that has any seriously featureless slab. It's very well bolted. The difficult sections are well protected and short.
The rest of the route has some AWESOME face climbing. May 6, 2011
Tucson, Arizona
A must do on all of my return trips! Apr 6, 2012
Madison WI
Tucson/DMR
toofasttopos.com/free/ Mar 25, 2014
TBD
Gilbert AZ
Thanks! Apr 6, 2016
Gilbert AZ
Also, would definitely recommend the alternate finish that busts right onto the face instead of continuing up the easy slab. It's consistent with the grade (10b/c?) and the rock is a lot higher quality than it might first look. Build an anchor on the summit, lots of heads/horns to sling and you could place some pieces. Nov 27, 2016
Tucson, AZ
Bishop, CA
Not too long after this was put up, I led this route....twice, finding it sustained but very doable.
Doing it yesterday with my friend John Hayes, coming mostly off the couch, we got modestly (or immodestly) spanked.
Suggestion: bring slippers, not edging shoes. You'll want every bit of friction contact you can get. Mar 14, 2017
Denver, CO
Salt Lake, UT
Salt Lake City, UT
Albuquerque, NM
Hardwick, VT , Bisbee, AZ
Also, protection is good, old bolts have been replaced (thanks!) ... no need for the PG 13 rating these days. Feb 26, 2025