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Steel Crazy
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.3 from 159
votes
Routes in Southeast Face
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Alcazar S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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As You Like It S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Camelot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chapalot S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cyberwanker S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Finishing School S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Forced Stress S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fort Stress S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gargoyle S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Inner Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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No Name 1 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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No Name 2 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Pitched Battle T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Quartz Jester S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Rupley Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sir Clipalot S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sneak Attack S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Steel Crazy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tres Frijoles S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Yo Yo Pinnacle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
| Type: | Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Mark Colby, Scott Ayers, 1996 |
| Page Views: | 32,189 total · 119/month |
| Shared By: | James DeRoussel on Sep 6, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here.
Details
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Description
Steel Crazy starts up the face near the left end of the Fortress. Look for the well-bolted line just left of a large corner.
Pitch 1: Pumpy climbing up and over small overhang (crux?)to easier climbing above. Continue up easier terrain, slightly runout to sloping ledge. Avoid trending right on the chickenhead, aim for the bolts straight up. Scary, thin moves up steep face past more bolts lead to small sea of chickenheads. Follow these to two-bolt belay on huge ledge.
Pitch 2: From the belay ledge, Steel Crazy follows the right of two bolted lines. Fun 5.9 climbing on well-bolted (over-bolted?) face straight up for 100 feet. More chickenheads lead to another two bolt belay.
Pitch 3: Continue straight up over sustained climbing to chickenheaded face. Easier climbing leads to 40 foot runout onto sloping ledge just left of large chimney. At the shrubs, step across chimney (scary) to two bolt belay on right hand side.
Pitch 4: Easy climbing for 60' to belay on top.
Descent: If you are unfortunate enough to have return to your gear at the base, you can double-rope rap the route (not recommended).
Otherwise, walk off the backside of the Fortress, following the long narrow ridge that leads north back toward the saddleRequires potentially scary scrambling.
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