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Routes in Waterfall Cliff
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Falls, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Oracle, The S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Evil Bolt Greeboo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Charlie Solo T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Anti-Christ S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Lieback Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Above the Law S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Clamydia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dendritis TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cleotitis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Black Dragon TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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P(iece) O(f) S(hit) Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Nausea TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Convulsions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Leading to Death T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Putrefaction S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Degeneration Left T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Degeneration T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | David Caunt |
| Page Views: | 11,864 total · 47/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Rezucha on Sep 24, 2004 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
This is a superb route requiring strong fingers, strong arms, and good balance and technique. The climb is found just right of the 5.7 Lieback corner route about in the middle of the cliff. The "clams" is an obvious rock formation about 35' up. Getting to the first bolt and past, to rest on ramp, is steep and fingery. Moving from the second to third bolt is a very difficult short traverse left to right on tiny holds. Moving up to the "clams" is a stumper! Moving past the "clams" requires ingenuity and strength. The remainder of the climb is easier slab climbing. Leading this route is quite a bit harder than on a TR as it's difficult enough moving hands from one hold to another let alone trying to clip the bolt and then clip the rope! An excellent test piece!
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