[Hide Comment] This route is a variation start to Jordy Morgan's route "The Beast" aka "The Gong Show" which starts up the steep crack. I bolted the Beast of Burden variation in 1996 or 1997.

2018 Post Fire Edit: The first three bolts have been replaced and all are in good shape. Much loose rock was removed from the route and the crux is now very different though the grade is probably about the same; .11c. Big moves. Feb 19, 2006

[Hide Comment] Hrmm... I onsighted this last year. I don't think it's an 11c. 10d/11a max for the short, but funky crux sequence. Aug 7, 2009

[Hide Comment] Or you were feeling strong and read the sequence well? It was a consensus .11b until two holds broke. Definitely harder now. Enough to bump a letter grade? I thought so. Maybe not. Needs more consensus. Sep 21, 2009

[Hide Comment] Climbed this on Sunday 9/20/09. There is a jug hold right below the fourth bolt at the end of the crack (end of the traverse in from the left on Beast of Burden) that is very loose now and poised to break off in the hand of the next person who yards on it. The portion of the flake above this hold appears solid still.

In hindsight It's so loose I should have ripped it off when lowering but I don't think breaking it off poses a dangerous fall for a leader even if only the third bolt is clipped at that point. Heads up to your belayer though. Sep 21, 2009

[Hide Comment] It's official, one of the jugs on the crux is no longer in place. When I first approached it today, it was wiggling around, so I thought it better just to work it out, rather than have it drop unexpectedly on a belayer at some point in the future. The crux is conceivably still doable, as the higher jug is still in place, but as the now gone jug marked a "rest" before at the start of the crux, things might be more interesting. This route is amazing, but definitely not easier than 11c, with or without the fallen jug. Nov 8, 2009

[Hide Comment] There seems to be a bit of a discussion on the grade, so I thought I would add my two cents. I was up there yesterday with 4 others, three of which got on this route. Here are my observations. First, this is a really nice route and the movement through the crux is quite enjoyable. Second, there is no way that this route is 10d/11a. I did the crux a second time as I lowered out, just to make sure that I could evaluate the grade. All of my partners and I came to the same consensus. We all thought this route was about 11b/c. We all thought that it was a bit stout for 11b, but not on the solid side of 11c either. If I were forced to choose, I would push it towards 'c', but just to let a potential leader know (particularly if you are short) that they should be able to pull a move or two harder than 11-. Hope this helps.
Cheers. Nov 15, 2009

[Hide Comment] Great route. Fun, sustained, moderately technical crux, but If you're able to read it quickly you shouldn't have any issues. I'm between 5'2" and 5'3" and did onsite this, but got the impression that additional reach would've been beneficial at the beginning of the crux. Aug 23, 2011

[Hide Comment] Onsighted this yesterday.
I would say that the key is to move quickly and don't hesitate too much at the crux. Also some good on the spot reading skills helps a lot.
Also this climb and the whole sector are face climbs... If that is your kind of climbing you could get it easily. Feb 24, 2013

[Hide Comment] Climbed this yesterday post-fire on the new bolts, thanks Jim/Jerry!

The route now seems to have a single stand-out crux move.

Balancy more than burly; seems desperate until you find the good holds.

11 or 11+ I'd say is about right, but most of my difficulties where with hold finding, not with executing the movements for the red point so I'll be interested to hear people's opinion. Apr 30, 2018

[Hide Comment] There are now two ways to do the crux of this route. If you follow the bolt pattern up the clean face as the route previously did before the fire it clocks in around 11.d and if you head up and left at the end of the traverse into the blocky jugs on the left side of the seam and then step over right Is say it’s about .11a/b. Aug 7, 2018

[Hide Comment] First time I’ve repeated it since the fire. Some of the holds where the climb used to cross the crack onto the the upper headwall mid way up have disappeared. The last non glue-in bolt kinda forces the climb high and left on the crack where it flares/opens up wide. It actually climbs more fun now and the path of least resistance seems to be 5.11a, maybe 5.11b. Feb 21, 2022

[Hide Comment] I'm not sure who has climbed this recently, but I don't think it's changed much in the past few years based on the comments. After talking to some folks it seems like there are two ways to do this route:
1. Climb through the first three bolts and take a FAT no hands rest in the wide crack. Then traverse out right onto either a bad sloper or a series of pinches.
2. Do the first three bolts, ignore the crack and don't take the rest, and fire the pinch sequence to the victory jug.

I did it the second way and I'd say 11c is fair. Maybe a little soft but a fair grade. Off the dog none of the moves are really that hard, and if I had taken that no hands I could see an 11a or similar grade. Jan 15, 2025