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Chicken Ranch Bingo
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.4 from 54
votes
Routes in The Grotto
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AC Devil Dog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bad Habits T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bandito T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bombardier, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Chicken Ranch Bingo S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Digital Distress T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Ejection Seat S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Flight Simulator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Go with the Flow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Granted T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gyro Gearloose T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hole in the Wall T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Journey to Find the Sun S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Men's Crisis Center T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Mine and Yours T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b V3 6A |
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Moss Appreciation T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Moss Critique S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Premature Ejection S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Prime Directive S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Rawhide T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sidewinder S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Snake Bite T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Squealer T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Table Manners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Table Manners - Left T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Table Manners - Right T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Three Fingered Jack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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To Pin or Not To Be T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Trigger Finger T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Grant Hiskes, 1993 |
| Page Views: | 7,463 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Aron Quiter on Apr 18, 2004 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Agreement in place at Gold Wall. Respect signs and private property owners near the crags.
Details
Update: April, 16 2021.
Gold Wall (which is privately owned) is open to climbing.
However climbers must follow the owners rules!
Rules for climbing at Gold Wall:
-No yelling/loud noises
-No fires of any kind
-No camping
-No trash/bathroom
-No publishing routes in books or online (ie Don't post on Mountain Project or other online sites)
-No disclosing exact location in books/online
The land owners continue to have full rights over the Gold Wall and the right to close access at any time if activities occur that make them uncomfortable. We are very thankful to the land owners who recognize the importance of Gold Wall to the climbing community and generously have allowed rock climbing to occur on their property.
Access Fund is working with Tuolumne County, Tuolumne County Land Trust, private landowners and the US Bureau of Reclamation to come up with a solution to the Shell Rd parking issue. Please be mindful of where you park when going to Table Mountain, do not block private driveways or vehicle access on Shell Rd and remember this area is a high fire danger zone so use abundance of caution!
It is up to us as a climbing community to ensure the owner’s rules are upheld so please if you see something say something!!
Gold Wall (which is privately owned) is open to climbing.
However climbers must follow the owners rules!
Rules for climbing at Gold Wall:
-No yelling/loud noises
-No fires of any kind
-No camping
-No trash/bathroom
-No publishing routes in books or online (ie Don't post on Mountain Project or other online sites)
-No disclosing exact location in books/online
The land owners continue to have full rights over the Gold Wall and the right to close access at any time if activities occur that make them uncomfortable. We are very thankful to the land owners who recognize the importance of Gold Wall to the climbing community and generously have allowed rock climbing to occur on their property.
Access Fund is working with Tuolumne County, Tuolumne County Land Trust, private landowners and the US Bureau of Reclamation to come up with a solution to the Shell Rd parking issue. Please be mindful of where you park when going to Table Mountain, do not block private driveways or vehicle access on Shell Rd and remember this area is a high fire danger zone so use abundance of caution!
It is up to us as a climbing community to ensure the owner’s rules are upheld so please if you see something say something!!
Description
Yeeee Haaaa! Goin to the Chicken Ranch! For Bingo! Named for a couple of reasons, for the Bingo place that's nearby, and also for the excellent slippery feeling you'll get hitting some of the upper holds in the Summer and Fall. Never mind the stink.
This is the rightmost climb in The Grotto, and is the only route that starts outside of the Grotto on the right side. Before the Class 3 downclimb into the Grotto, look for the bolts of Chicken Ranch Bingo above the columns. Climb up the columns to a traverse move accross the top of the columns. It's a ways to the first bolt, but climbing is probably only 5.6 until a 5.8 move right before the first bolt. Head up for a while on overhung but excellent holds. Continue softly right, and then Softly left for a balancy traversy section right before the top anchors. Climbing is solid 5.10b once you get past the columns until the top anchors.
Lowering directly into the pit below requires a 60 meter rope,, so lower wisely with shorter ropes.
This is the rightmost climb in The Grotto, and is the only route that starts outside of the Grotto on the right side. Before the Class 3 downclimb into the Grotto, look for the bolts of Chicken Ranch Bingo above the columns. Climb up the columns to a traverse move accross the top of the columns. It's a ways to the first bolt, but climbing is probably only 5.6 until a 5.8 move right before the first bolt. Head up for a while on overhung but excellent holds. Continue softly right, and then Softly left for a balancy traversy section right before the top anchors. Climbing is solid 5.10b once you get past the columns until the top anchors.
Lowering directly into the pit below requires a 60 meter rope,, so lower wisely with shorter ropes.
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