PRINT: Climb Mr Magoo, San Francisco Bay Area

Mr Magoo

V1-2, Boulder, 10 ft (3 m),

Avg: 2.6 from 207 votes
FA: unknown
California > San Francisco B… > S Bay Area > Castle Rock Area > Castle Rock Ar… > Castle Rock Loop > Magoos > Mr Magoo Boulder

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK CLOSURES; The sandstone around Castle Rock is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged (like Donkey Dong and countless others) due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB AT CASTLE ROCK during or after rain.

Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.

Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.

Description

This problem is on the magoo closest to the access road it is on the left hand side while facing the rock from the road. It is route 6 on my pretty little picture.

Sit start on the two obvious hand holds. Throw high to a small shelf. Then head straight up to top out. Top out is the same as route 5, Up and Over.

Protection

None.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mr Magoo, V2 sit start(red), V0-V1 stand start (green), up to the "Mr Magoo's" face

01/10/2015 photo: Grant McCauley

Mike Arechiga on, Mr. Magoo V fun.

Topo

Topping out on Mr. Magoo.

Laws using Mr. Magoo's eponymous feature to mount the route's middle move.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

mungeclimber

again, not an official name. And there are several variations on the this the "magoo" face. Mar 7, 2005

Paul Boardman

This problem is called Mr Magoo! See the Mr Magoo face in the middle of the wall? Jan 31, 2006

Mike Deitchman
Boulder, CO

Mr Magoo was originally a stand start (hands on the slightly slopey finger rail at about 7 feet). The soil has washed away significantly in the 20+years I've been climbing. I'm aware of about ten different variations to this problem ranging from 5.9 to V7.

The problem was originally rate 5.9, as I recall, so V0-. Sit start I think we started calling V1, but then, we were a bunch of sandbaggers... Apr 27, 2016

Kristoffer Schmarr
Boulder, CO

V0 - Start matched on high crimp
V1 - Start matched on side pull hueco
V1/2 - Sit start Nov 26, 2017

Jason Armstrong
SF, CA

aka "Mr. Magoo" V0+ (Morris 2007)
aka "Magoo Face" V1 / sit start V2 (Thornburg 2015) Jul 10, 2019

Travis Koh
San Jose, Ca

V2+

Anyone else think sit start is harder than V2? Oct 9, 2020

Dave Onsight
Honolulu

Video beta: instagram.com/tv/CGWXY6HhDC… Oct 15, 2020

Reese Stanley

This climb has one of the coolest holds at all of castle rock, Mimic Holds WYA Feb 19, 2021

Calder Grant-Penev

The standard for v1 at Castle Rock in my opinion Jun 13, 2023

Willy Wisconsin
Phoenix, AZ

V1-2

It's so chalked up that most of the line is obvious. However, be smarter than me and actually read the MP descriptions on how to do the actual start. I think the beginning warrants a V2 rating, the rest is fair V1 territory. youtu.be/zREDZQEXPcE Jul 29, 2023