PRINT: Rock Climb Bits and Pieces, Central Coast

Bits and Pieces

5.9, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 2.2 from 57 votes
FA: Paul Gagner and Chris Belizzi January 1988
California > Central Coast > Pinnacles NP > W Side > Flumes Formation > Lower Flumes Formation

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Always check this web page before you visit for current conditions and nesting closures:

Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.

SPECIAL NOTICE: Condors have been establishing nests at the Pinnacles National Monument. Since condors develop to fledgling more slowly than raptors and vultures closures due to condor nesting is extended past the usual Martin Luther King Day to July 3rd. Again, please check the "Current Raptor Advisory" section of the NPS website and/or the Friends of Pinnacles website for current closures.

As of July 2024 there are three active Condor nests at Pinnacles National Park.

The Machete Ridge area is closed from Pigeon Crack on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original.

All climbing routes at Crowley Towers are closed.

All routes on the Yaks and Yaks Wall plus Marauder.

Description

This is a fun route that climbs up a water streak. The rock is good and the climbing is fun. Be aware that there are additional bolts that continue straight up after the 5th bolt. The rock becomes less stable and the anchor bolts take two ropes to reach the ground. You are better off traversing right to the three bolt anchor.

Location

This is the furthest route to the left on the wall.

Protection

5 protection bolts to either a two-bolt or a three-bolt anchor(up and right).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Unknown climber (from Santa Cruz?) on Bits & Pieces, Oct. 28, 2023. He took a decent whipper when hold broke before the last bolt.

26-October-2024. Always bring enough quick draws, even if you don't think you are going to make it to the anchor.

16-May-2010: Pavel leading Bits 'n' Pieces (5.9)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

rhyang
San Jose, CA

5.9

See Brad Young's latest Pinnacles guidebook (2007) for info on Bits and Pieces Extension (5.9). The route is ~90' high and has 8 bolts. The anchor is shared with Wet Paranoia (5.9, TR) and one 60m rope was sufficient to rap to the ground. May 16, 2010

Zay Redux
Mariposa

I don't know what the deal is with the 3 bolt anchor. Just punch it strait up to the 2 bolt anchor. Solid. Extending the second to last bolt will keep the rope from making a big "Z" around that giant knob, thus reducing a lot of drag. Definitely check out Wet Paranoia after this route :) Dec 7, 2016

Courtney M

Climbed today and the fourth bolt needs to be tightened. My group was able to finger tighten it, but would be MUCH better if someone brought up a tool. Sep 15, 2024