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> Lower Muffins
Jelly Roll
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British R
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Lower Muffins
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Burnt Muffin S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Corn Muffin S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Jelly Roll S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Left Chimney TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Right Chimney (a.k.a The Helmet Clamp) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sticky Green Traverse, The V6 7A |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 849 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Aron Quiter on Aug 19, 2002 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
This route will constantly annoy you with bizarre, basackwards moves and other things that hadn't occurred to further your climbing move arsenal since you were five. However, you might want to remember some of the resulting moves. This is the right bolted route on the Lower Muffins. It moves up the left side of the lowest rightside rock up to a bolted section of balance switching moves.
If you're going to lead this route, you should either stick clip the first bolt or keep a crashpad handy as the bolt is over a tough first move 10' off the ground. This move found me running off the climb on lead and getting caught by my belayer as I was running downhill 10 feet later. Avoid the temptation to start from the right, as it will probably lead you nowhere.
If you're going to lead this route, you should either stick clip the first bolt or keep a crashpad handy as the bolt is over a tough first move 10' off the ground. This move found me running off the climb on lead and getting caught by my belayer as I was running downhill 10 feet later. Avoid the temptation to start from the right, as it will probably lead you nowhere.
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