[Hide Comment] I remember leading this route many years ago, but maybe I'm thinking of the wrong route. Isn't there a piton or two under the roof? Can this be led safely, and if so what gear would be needed? Jun 28, 2002

[Hide Comment] This is a really sweet climb! The area under the roof is essentially a mini-cave, and a great place to get imaginative with foot and hand positioning and think outside the box to get over the roof. If you take a fall the swing out is super fun, but the angle the rope holds you at makes it difficult to get back under the roof. So, if you come off the rock try to grab a hold on your first swing in, otherwise you will most likely have to be lowered back down to the top of the 5.9 section. When I did this climb the sun had already set, making it very difficult to see any of the holds under the roof. There are some pretty bomber holds to be found if you reach up and around to them however. I definitely recommend this climb if you're going to the Skyline Blvd/ Castle Rock area. Jul 6, 2002

[Hide Comment] There's a 5.12 crack to the left, and you can use one of its bolts to protect yourself right before the crux of The Great Roof. So I guess you're memory was right, George. Jul 6, 2002

[Hide Comment] The 5.10b part CANNOT be lead safely. Unless you like falling 15 feet and crashing headfirst into the face below. There are at least a dozen bolts in the cave, but the only bolts that lead out of it head up the 5.12 crack to the left. Oct 13, 2003

[Hide Comment] I did lead this one in the 90's... pretty committing give the bolts are probably 20+ years old. Don't do it unless you are confident for the grade. I saw a guy fall onto the second to last bolt and it held.. but htat was 20 years ago! May 6, 2004

[Hide Comment] This route is extremely fun. And on a top rope, it's very safe. However the bolts do look old in places, and are pretty scarce. Oct 30, 2011

[Hide Comment] Old bolts, terribly committing at the top. I wouldn't lead it - I don't think it can be done safely at all. The bit up to the cave is very overhung. Whoever put in the glue-in bolts put at least one in sideways. So if there's weight on the ancher, it'll torque the glue-in. Both bolts have some play in them. I rather wish a pro would come in and do things right. Jun 9, 2013

[Hide Comment] Super fun top rope, the moves coming out of the cave are really unique and exhilerating as at one part (if you do it as I did), you have arms and feet out on either side and are facing the amazing view away from the rock with nothing below you, a must climb if you are in this area!! Jan 4, 2014

[Hide Comment] We top roped this. Lots of fun. Would recommend. The move out of the cave is super scary imo but still fun. Feb 27, 2018

[Hide Comment] This is a fun route, gets you pumped, if you fall the swing gets the blood flowing. What I didn't like about this route is that its right in the middle of what seemed to me to be the busiest area on the trail. Personally I like being away from civilization when rock climbing. In 1 hour I heard "wow look at that", "wow thats crazy" more times than I could count and about 3 groups of 5 people just sitting at the base spectating. Real annoying if you ask me, it creates distraction. Sep 24, 2018

[Hide Comment] You could lead this on gear I think. There's several slingable features on the way up and an obvious finger sized crack just before you commit to the roof moves (I wouldn't put a cam in the hand size crack below the fingers crack, too fragile looking). That being said you'd need a somewhat long runner and a trusted belayer as a fall from the roof jugs would be a tad wild, just don't fall, ha! Might wanna look at the holds from a rappel first cuz they're not totally obvious ground up. I found three different ways to climb thru the crux. My preferred way was to stem on smears and go to a big positive jug out left. I also stem/smeared and reached 1 o'clock to a good side pull. I guess most people reach out right to a clam shaped feature that seemed less positive and campusy to me. It's pretty powerful for a 10b imo, felt V2ish honestly but maybe there's easier beta. The exposure and setting are really cool! May 3, 2019

[Hide Comment] I climbed it yesterday and couldn't be happier. I didn't think I'd be able to do it, especially after my first try when I fell while trying to figure out how to reach the roof, and then tried again successfully. My advice to those who think they cannot do it is to try repeatedly until you do. Just remember that upper body strength and good core are REALLY helpful for this fun route. Feb 23, 2020