[Hide Comment] These two pitches can be done in one and you can just reach the (easy to downclimb) start with a 70 meter rope from the top. You can easily place four to five #3 Camalots two 3.5s and two #4s or you'll need to keep bringing the pro with you. Nov 7, 2006

[Hide Comment] kinda takes the fun out of it, doesn't it now? Apr 3, 2009

[Hide Comment] We were able to get down from the upper anchor with one single 70M rope rappel. It required some easy 4th class down climbing.

The 2nd pitch corner will take Black Diamond #3s or #4s well. Jan 11, 2012

[Hide Comment] The bolted anchors on this route were retro-anchors, courtesy Todd Swain. They were installed when Todd was putting in his nearby routes Perplexity and Miss Conception, original anchor atop P2 was fixed natural pro.

While attempting to switch out a homemade angle iron "cracked hanger" Swain hanger (so-called because they were made at home by Swain, and had cracks at the time of installation at the clip point-Swain still installed them) at the first belay, my party got the pleasure of snapping one of the 3/8 belay bolts at the threads. This is becoming a common occurance-the same experience was had two weeks ago on Triassic's P2 anchor, seems like Swain may have bought a bad batch of bolts at one point, or mixing metals has caused more galvanic corrosion than expected with the angle iron and cold shut hangers that were installed with these bolts. We did not bring the whole replacement kit, therefore the first anchor is one bolt currently, judging from the one beside I wouldn't trust it by itself.

Both anchors will be replaced with solid stainless very shortly. In the meantime, bring a 70M or swing right to the Miss Conception P1 anchor if you'd like to avoid a short low-fifth downclimb. This was replaced last year and is solid stainless. The mess it was before replacement made the Misunderstanding anchors look good...

UPDATE: Both anchor stations are replaced with bomber ASCA stainless. You can donate now if you're feeling thankful- Sep 3, 2012

[Hide Comment] How folks rate the a 2 star climb I simply don't understand. This thing is old school and classic! Mar 16, 2013

[Hide Comment] Doing it as one pitch is a blast. I took up two 4s and two 3s and thought that it still protected well. Jan 5, 2017

[Hide Comment] As a budding 5.10 leader, I found the first pitch protected fine with doubles of C4s. I'd climb it with a single rack if I had to. Very thoughtful interesting climbing.

I easily could have placed three #4's and four #3's on the second pitch, and my double set felt really inadequate. Pretty much walked my pieces the entire climb, which was a bit of a hassle.

Rapping on a single 70 brings you below your first placement on the first pitch, and there's a ledge to come off rappel before an easy downclimb. Mar 22, 2017

[Hide Comment] Great climb! Good hand jams, laybacks, stems, all options are there. I did a combination of all three for great fun! Used four BD#3 and 1 BD#4. Another #4 wouldve been nice, but it was sitting nice and warm at the bottom inside my pack. Bolted anchors with rap rings. Good route for the grade Apr 17, 2017

[Hide Comment] Did this with 2 #3’s and 1 #4. Felt runout to me but then again this was my first 5.9. You can place a #2 and #3 metolius in the seam in the roof of pitch two extended with a double before traversing and going up the “final short wide section” which is easy to the anchors. Dec 12, 2017

[Hide Comment] Fantastic sustained 5.9 mostly-crack climbing. Both pitches were 4 stars to me.

Has anyone tried to continue up and top this out? It looks like there's another decent 5.8ish pitch above the anchors. Then maybe 5.11/12? Jan 19, 2019