Tony B Around Boulder, CO   5.10d PG13

[Hide Comment] After passing the tree on the top of P1, I felt safe and solid climbing to the first bolt of P2 on this climb as a single pitch. Athough this was some distance the climbing was easier in general than that of the first pitch, perhaps 5.7-. Anyone who can climb this route at all should not fall here. Low odds but high consequences I suppose, though the fall would be long it is not the worst a climber could take, and is on a clean slab. As for the last pitch, 10d is right, but the first 30' is perfect handjams (5.9-) and the second half is considerably harder, yes, about 10d (.75-1.5" gear) Apr 7, 2006

Brian Weinstein   5.10d PG13

[Hide Comment] We combined the first two pitches easily. High quality and diverse route. Apr 25, 2008

Mark Overdevest Salt Lake City, UT

[Hide Comment] Agree w/ the comment about pitch 2. 2 old(er) bolts protect the crux slab moves, then head up and right, and it's not hard but a bit balancy w/ no pro. If you have a small tcu (purple c3 maybe? - I didn't have) you might fashion a placement on the ledge you're standing on/by. I had only blue metolius and up so I had to pull the rail and slot a yellow or orange (can't remember) metolious in a horizontal. Pro is bomber from then on up the flake. And pitch 3 is worth it. So sweet. Apr 8, 2009

Aleix Serrat

[Hide Comment] If someone finds a gray winter hat in the ledge up and right from the base of the third pitch (below rappel anchors), please contact me. Apr 10, 2009

Jon OBrien Nevada   5.10d PG13

[Hide Comment] I think saying the 2nd pitch is arbitrary is misleading depending on your strengths as a climber. They're credit card crimpers, if one breaks... Apr 21, 2009

Tim Wolfe Salt Lake City, UT   5.10+ R

[Hide Comment] The third pitch as about as good as it gets for hand crack climb and takes great gear. The second pitch is scary and would be very bad if you blew it so if you are not comfortable climbing the third 5.10d pitch you likely do not want to get on this second pitch. I gave the second pitch an R rating since you would probably be hurt severely if you fell. Jan 24, 2010

Brandontru Nevada   5.10 PG13

[Hide Comment] Very fun route. The slab on p2 is a bit runout, as soon as get visual of p3 it starts to be more understandable why you want to get up there. Still a bit spooky though. Mar 4, 2010

Cunning Linguist

[Hide Comment] I put this one off for a long time because of assumed hardware issues with the long runout on the crappy bolt. Three things: 1 All the hardware is as bomber as you could ever wish. New, strong, solid. 2 There's a 4 BD stopper that's iffy before the bolt-if you bring a blue Ballnut (smallest), there's a SOLID placement to get you to the bolt. Worth having with you. 3 The final corner is nowhere near as straightforward as it looks. Purple TCU with a draw pre-rigged might save you enough time to not butter when you get to the first pod, and then you better stomp the gas-it doesn't get done til you clip the chains! May 9, 2011

e Dixon Durango, CO   5.10c/d

[Hide Comment] P2 is not that bad, not sustained, and there is a bolt where the climbing is the hardest, just be solid at the grade (R?). Didn't find P3 that sustained, a short section of thin fingers, overall a superb pitch. Jun 18, 2011

Shiho   5.10 R

[Hide Comment] The 3rd pitch is great, but the 2nd pitch scare the crap out of me! Oct 5, 2011

Thomas G. SLC, UT

[Hide Comment] I totally agree with Shiho on this one. The third pitch was worth getting up to, but the second pitch was pretty terrifying. We found that a small offset master cam protected the moves after the bolt, but did not have a blue ball-nut, so getting to it was certainly the mental crux of the route. All things considered, this climb is a gem. Mar 15, 2012

Sean Sullivan Idyllwild, CA

[Hide Comment] If you wanted to only climb the money pitch, you could access it on rappel after climbing Wholesome Fullback (10a) which is a two pitch climb to the left of this one. Oct 28, 2012

Roger Suen Los Angeles, CA

[Hide Comment] The second pitch is much less runout than it showed in the Flacon Guide. It's a decent distance to get to the 1st set of bolts (1 old 1 new next to each other) slightly up and right, but the climbing is the easiest of the pitch. Then there's a new bolt just above the first pair. From here you go slightly left and there's another brand new bolt, between these 2 is the crux. After the last bolt, there's only a move or 2 that's 5.9, then it more like 5.6 or 5.7. Once, in the corner there's gear (thin stuff). So do the climb, don't let the R scare you! Nov 26, 2012

Cunning Linguist

[Hide Comment] Rob, you and I replaced bolts on Delicate Sound and Tales From The Gripped that day. We didn't have to touch P2 of Our Fadda as all that was already done. The ones we didn't finish dealing with were on P2 of Tales, that was when we finally gave in to our scratchy throats and descended to get water and Haterade. I think Roger's description is making it sound like there is a sport section on that pitch, but I'd bet at most someone may have replaced the formerly chopped second bolt recently. This probably isn't any big deal since the 1-to-1 was just stepped up back in the day to eliminate a very close 2nd bolt, and the addition of a new replacement isn't really making any great difference one way or another. That said, if retros are going in up there, they will be removed, I'm sure. Very sure. The route's sick regardless. Enjoy! Nov 28, 2012

Colin Parker Idyllwild, CA   5.10 R

[Hide Comment] We accidentally climbed this route thinking it was the start to wholesome fullback. So glad we did! A couple notes: I felt the first pitch was probably 5.8 and the second pitch was harder than 5.9. It was not unsafe though. You can get a bomber blue TCU in a scar before the first bolt and the crux moves are bolt protected. This climb is rather safe. If you decide not to move left after the first two bolts you can also climb around the looming bulge on the right at 5.8/9ish. If you do this you'll need to move the belay for the third pitch. I also recommend linking the first two pitches. We did with minimal rope drag. The third pitch is awesome, so don't be scared away from this climb! Apr 28, 2013

Mostafa Noori

[Hide Comment] Awesome climb! IMO you should do the whole climb and not just P3 by rapping wholesome fullback. Linking pitches 1&2 is the best way to go. P2 has a delicate move but not bad. The rap off the first pitch could use some love so take a little webbing. Jun 8, 2013

Aaron Cassebeer Tehachapi, CA   5.10d R

[Hide Comment] The first pitch rappel (fixed nut and slung tree) can be avoided by rapping directly right 30 ft to the next route's anchor on a ledge. Two new bolts with rap rings. Oct 21, 2013

Ian C   5.10d R

[Hide Comment] Climbed this today. Beautiful corner crack on the 3rd pitch that requires some real endurance through the crux that makes the whole climb worth while. Possible loose block somewhere up near the top of the crack. It rattled a bit when I went to pull on it. Just make sure your belayer is wearing their helmet. P2 was pretty serious. I wouldn't be very excited to do it again. I got through it fine. My partner at 5' 3" had some reach issues, but managed to get through it on TR having to do some sketchy moves just before the finish. Falling on TR on the second pitch would have made it pretty tough to get back on route after unclipping that last bolt, and poses the risk of taking a nice little swing. Might wanna make sure both you and your partner are solid slab climbers if you plan on doing this pitch, especially if you are short. I also made the mistake of leaving my pack unzipped and a coyote snagged some granola and made a mess of things. Lesson learned. Oct 23, 2013

Colin Brochard San Diego, CA   5.10d R

[Hide Comment] Rapped in via wholesome fullback. P3 was outstanding, and takes bomber gear the whole way. A great route to push the grade. I think my ideal rack if I get to get back on this one: 1x mastercam #0 2x mastercam #1,2,3 1x camalot # .4, .5 2x camalot # .75, 1, 2 nuts Nov 15, 2013

Kaleem Khwaja Emeryville, California

[Hide Comment] P2 still has 4 bolts as of March 2014: 3 new, 1 old. One of the new ones is really nice to have, but the other seems really unnecessary. Plus you can get in plenty of pro before you reach the first bolt. I wouldn't even call the route PG at this point. Mar 28, 2014

Mason Caiby

[Hide Comment] this is way cool. the 3rd pitch is fantastic. the lower two arent amazing, but can be combo'd and you get the cushiest belay ledge. i wouldn't give it R, maybe PG13 but really, PG. take small gear, if you climb 5.9, theres nothing to worry about Mar 30, 2014

Cunning Linguist

[Hide Comment] Took a look at what John Wilder called "definitely retro" bolts on pitch 2 of Our Father, without looking at them. There aren't any retro bolts on the pitch. The route to the right has been partially rebolted, and people are straying all over the place to be able to clip more bolts, even though these bolts apparently introduce cruxes climbing between one route and the other. Call the linkup "Our Gripped" but don't mistake some bolts 20+ feet right of the belay tree atop P1 as being part of Our Father. The heady second pitch@5.9 R still has only one pro bolt. Apr 27, 2014

Chris M Hailey, ID   5.10d R

[Hide Comment] Don't let the comments scare you off the second pitch- it is very reasonable if you are comfortable climbing above the grade. There are good stopper/small cam placements off the belay, then moderate but runout climbing to a new bolt; the climbing is 5.7/8. The 5.9 crux comes slightly above the bolt and is short and well protected. Also, as @Cunning Linguist notes, there is only one bolt on the Our Father pitch. According to some of the other comments, it seems that folks are climbing way right to bolts on another route, clipping them, then heading left. The climbing may be harder this way? Nov 4, 2014

Austin Sobotka Tucson, AZ   5.10c/d PG13

[Hide Comment] Gorgeous route. First pitch: super enjoyable climbing up a mellow and highly-featured dihedral. Second pitch: I made the mistake(?) of climbing out right to two bolts and then back left to the bolt that actually belongs to the route. The climbing didn't seem any harder than 5.9 (which isn't to say that doing it this way doesn't introduce more 5.9 crux moves, but whatever). It may just be that I'm not used to sandstone slab (I'm not), but from the belay it really isn't obvious where to go, so the rational choice for me was to head towards the first visible (and not obviously-off-route) bolt. Third pitch is just amazing. The beginning of it is perfect hands and maybe 5.9- (I didn't place any gear just because it didn't make sense to stop, the jams were so good). This initial section leads up to a little ledge and a narrowing crack. The crux comes about halfway up this section where the corner flares and the crack inside disappears (beta spoiler: at the moment of despair, look to your right). After the crux the climbing remains fairly sustained at 10/10-. Mar 21, 2015

Paul L Portland, OR   5.10d PG13

[Hide Comment] Climbed yesterday. Super fun from start to finish. Skip the first belay and link P1 to P2 for full value. P1 is fairly straightforward, mellow climbing. P2, heady, a little run out and technical. I give P2 a solid .10b/c depending on your height. There are a couple placements for small gear before the bolt on P2, but I had to run it out pretty far above the bolt before finding a placement that seemed worthwhile. Build an anchor under P3, do not use the bolts up and right for belaying, it makes no sense. P3 is powerful either liebacking or jamming. My hands were too big to get good jams after about the first 8 feet, so I went lieback; my partner went jams almost the whole way and was still full power after the ledge. 5.10d seems appropriate for P3. Oct 17, 2017

Mei pronounced as May Bay Area, but not in SF

[Hide Comment] Was able to rap with 60m rope (don't think I saw a mention below). Glad to see a 10b/c given to p2 by a prev commenter. I climbed it mis-remembering it as 5.8, and thought it was way off (I'm 5'4") although I never felt unsafe with the bolts there. The third pitch feels more like Yosemite climbing. Nov 10, 2017

Robert Shortt San Francisco, CA   5.10d

[Hide Comment] P3 corner has to be one of the best splitters in RR...Indian Creek style. Oct 17, 2018

Zachary Cleary

[Hide Comment] A route to inspire you to go rock climbing. Two distinct pitches of different climbing styles and mindsets. Get on it! Dec 8, 2020

Alex Fletcher Las Vegas

[Hide Comment] At the pitch one anchor, there was a #13 BD stopper that took the load rather than the tree. Someone stole it leaving the tree as the anchor. The tree grows horizontally out of the wall and the cord slips significantly outwards torquing sketchily on the tree. I replaced the nut and cord to it’s original condition so the tree does not take the load. Please don’t steal the nut. Feb 12, 2021

Austin Donisan San Mateo, CA   5.10c PG13

[Hide Comment] The P1 tree anchor shouldn't be used when rappelling. There's a bolted anchor 20' climber's right. Mar 29, 2021

WF WF51

[Hide Comment] I would grade the second pitch 5.9, the third pitch, 5.10d. Very nice route. Apr 11, 2021

Brian Carver Louisville, CO

[Hide Comment] Although the hard parts of p2 are safe (clean falls) they seemed a bit thin for RR 5.9 Apr 17, 2021

Justin Martucci Los Angeles, CA   5.10d R

[Hide Comment] Amazing route. Can’t see how it wouldn’t be R though just for the part getting to the only bolt on the second pitch. It’s only about 5.7, and most of the holds are solid, but it’s about 30-40 feet up and there are a couple holds that you have to be very delicate on right by the bolt. If one of those breaks, you are hitting the ledge/ tree and falling a ways further. You’re definitely getting pretty badly injured. After the bolt though you would just slide down the slab. Probably hurt but not too bad. All pitches are great. May 2, 2023

Harris Kashtan   5.10c/d R

[Hide Comment] The 3rd pitch of this climb is one of the best single pitch crack climbs in the park. Sustained, protects well, and has everything from finger to hand cracks, laybacking and stemming. Definitely worth doing if you just finished Wholesome Fullback. The 2nd pitch is definitely heady with a single bolt for about 30-40 ft of slab climbing and not that interesting. I would probably just do the top pitch and skip the rest of the climb. May 27, 2023