Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Josh Thompson, Marc Hemmes, Brian Kosta Fall 1998 |
Page Views: | 4,587 total · 18/month |
Shared By: | J. Thompson on Feb 18, 2004 |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
As one looks up and left (climbers) from the top of Lotta Balls wall, you will see an obvious crack splitting an varnished buttress...voila!! Scramble to the base, from the top of LOBW.Start from a nice ledge at the base of this obvious crack, the crack starts off fingers and goes to #5 camalot size on the first pitch. Belay from 2 bolts on the left side of the crack- 5.8. Pitch 2 Upward!! Continue up the wide crack to the top of the buttress...there is a flake that creates smaller gear placements about midway up the pitch-5.8.Descent: it is possible to descend down either side of the buttress, both involve downclimbing and, depending on one's downclimbing abilities, possibly rappels. If you choose to go down the gully to the west you will join the standard descent for LOBW. If you choose to go to the east you will have to do some circutious route finding.
Enjoy!
Enjoy!
Photos
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