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Excellent Adventure

5.11b R, Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 3.8 from 67 votes
FA: Mike Tupper, Greg Mayer 10/1989
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (10) Pine Creek… > Mescalito > Dark Shadows Wall
Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description

Excellent Adventure is a fantastic, memorable rock climb. It's full of great moves, airy positions, fiddley gear, and exciting runouts. The only detractors from this being a neo-classic are that the second and third pitches feel ever so slightly contrived (although the climbing is still very good).

The climb starts right off of the water pools at the base of the Dark Shadows wall. It's worth taking some time to identify the correct line: There are four routes that take off from this area, each with two bolts up the water-polished slab. The right-most one departs from the boulder above the waterfall and is the famous Dark Shadows. Next is Sandstone Sandwich, which is best approached by traversing in from the boulder. The next one is Excellent Adventure, starting near the base of the pool, usually with a rock-stack to help you get established. Finally, the left-most is Risky Business. All of these bolts can be hard to pick out without careful inspection.

P1: Step onto some rocks and then up onto the face immediately below the homemade hangers. You are aiming for the right end of a white roof about 75' up. Climb the slab easily to the second bolt, then perform a difficult move (5.10) past this bolt and continue up to the edge of the roof. Pull the roof a few feet left of the right edge onto a steep face and a tips crack of sorts. Climb up past a bolt or two until you can trend left into an easy right-diagonalling crack system. Follow this to a spacious belay ledge that gives good views of Dark Shadows.

P2: Step directly left off the belay around the blunt arete and up to a bolt. Swain's description speaks of down climbing but this is unnecessary. Climb up to a second bolt (tough move immediately before the clip) then head almost straight left to easier ground. The moves left from this bolt are the crux of the climb and check in at about 5.11b/c (this section felt slightly contrived as the bolts force you to avoid easier, more obvious climbing). Continue up past more bolts to easier climbing. The rock here is steep and the gear spacing is sporty! Right when things get blank again you can step left around a blunt arete to the anchor with a 6" ledge. Do not step left too soon and do not belay at Risky Business anchor up and left.

P3: This is the psychological crux of the route - great climbing but a lot of 5.10 moves way out from gear. Contrary to Swain's description, this is not scary for the second at all (solid TR the whole time) - definitely put the cool-headed leader on this pitch. Also, the scale/proportions in his topo for this pitch are way off: it would appear in the topo that there are only four bolts (instead of five) and that after you clip the last one you head straight left for a long ways. In actuality, after you clip the last bolt, you go straight up for a long ways, and you don't have to go all that far left to reach the anchor. Here's the description: Climb up off the belay past three bolts in an arc, heading right over the huge Heart of Darkness roof. Two bolts lead straight up from here. Take a deep breath and punch it for 30+ feet of 5.10 climbing straight up the face to a horn and overlap (alternatively, it is possible to clip the 5th bolt, then downclimb a move or two then head almost directly right (5.10+/5.11- moves) 15' to a huge hole in the rock. From here climb up about 10-20', then traverse back left along a natural line of holds until you are directly above (by 15-20 feet or so) the 5th bolt again. Continue up to the aforementioned horn and overlap ). Load the overlap up with thank-God gear and get a good shake, then continue straight up on more neat 5.10 climbing past several RP placements. After about 20 feet you'll see the angle of the face eases off - pull up onto a ledge system and walk a few feet to your left to the Risky Business/Excellent Adventure anchors.

Yee Haw! What a route!

Protection

Single set of cams to 0.75 Camalot, a #1 Camalot is helpful in a few places. Extra micro gear - small Aliens are extremely useful. Small & medium wires, RP's, HB offsets helpful. A bunch of draws & slings.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Allison climbing the superb rock and wild position on the third pitch. November 2012.
[Hide Photo] Allison climbing the superb rock and wild position on the third pitch. November 2012.
Pitch 2
[Hide Photo] Pitch 2
Moving out and over the roof and getting ready to start the thin face climb towards the top of the second pitch.
[Hide Photo] Moving out and over the roof and getting ready to start the thin face climb towards the top of the second pitch.
Starting the 3rd pitch of excellent adventure
[Hide Photo] Starting the 3rd pitch of excellent adventure
I'm fired up about sending this one
[Hide Photo] I'm fired up about sending this one
Photo of me on the weird downclimby, traversy then back up bit. So good! 3/28/22
[Hide Photo] Photo of me on the weird downclimby, traversy then back up bit. So good! 3/28/22
Rich Aschert coming up Pitch 2 Excellent Adventure
[Hide Photo] Rich Aschert coming up Pitch 2 Excellent Adventure
"Hanging out" over the roof after the big fall.
[Hide Photo] "Hanging out" over the roof after the big fall.
Sunny Jamshedji way up Excellent Adventure as photographed by me on the third pitch of Risky Business.
[Hide Photo] Sunny Jamshedji way up Excellent Adventure as photographed by me on the third pitch of Risky Business.
Pitch 2
[Hide Photo] Pitch 2
Close up of the start of the 3rd Pitch of Excellent Adventure
[Hide Photo] Close up of the start of the 3rd Pitch of Excellent Adventure
third pitch before the long runout.  A fall above could be 70 ft but harmless--you'd terrorize the climbers on Dark Shadows.
[Hide Photo] third pitch before the long runout. A fall above could be 70 ft but harmless--you'd terrorize the climbers on Dark Shadows.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] On the last pitch,after the fifth bolt the route goes more or less straight up the wall moving between a couple of varnished flakes where you can get some pro. This is no harder than the necky moves needed to reach the fifth bolt. The detour into Heart of Darkness avoids a great piece of wall climbing. Jun 4, 2005
J. Thompson
denver, co
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] This route is awesome....between it and risky business there are 2 of the best routes(At the grade and possibly overall) in Red Rock right next to each other.

I disagree with some of what has been said above... Neither I nor my partner (who is one of the most prolific FAer's in the area) thought the route was the least bit contrived. On the second pitch I found the Swain description of downclimbing to be the way to go...it is possible to step directly left but either way works fine. The bolts do keep you from using a line of holds to the left...but these are the top of the second pitch of Risky business and I found the separate climbing on EA to be a very good and independent line.

The 3rd pitch is somewhat runout and very scary...after the fifth bolt there is good gear before you step back left and this greatly reduces the runout nature...using a standard length sling on this piece and at the overlap keeps you from having any rope drag.

If you're ready...do this climb you won't regret it!!

josh Oct 1, 2005
Isaac Tait
Oakdale, CT
[Hide Comment] To the left of Excellent Adventures there is a single pitch (27 m) climb with Mussy Hook anchors. The route is just below the large offwidth that you see when approaching this area. Any beta on ratings, FA, etc...? Sep 27, 2008
Jeff G
Colorado
  5.11b R
[Hide Comment] This is a great route! I didn't feel it was contrived at all. The second pitch has the hardest technical moves but the third pitch is harder overall and is a much scarier to lead. The third pitch has a few moves that I would rate 11a or 11b, I think 5.10 is a big sandbag. The third pitch is not scary for the second, as all the guidebooks state. The swing potential is quite short anywhere on the pitch for the second. Raps can be done with a single 70m cord down Risky Business on new stainless rap stations. Mar 23, 2009
Pitty
Marbach
 
[Hide Comment] For me the best route I climbed in the two weeks there, better than Levitation 29.
Great but serious to lead. Apr 27, 2011
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11 R
[Hide Comment] Josh Janes told me a fall off the third pitch would be safe since you would clear a roof and sky into pure air. I have confirmed this opinion (see the photo) though it did do some damage to the sheath (not core) of the rope. Amazingly thin, balancy, scary climbing. After 5 bolts and some gear higher up and a huge looking further runnout I bailed not wanting to test the theory (and the rope) twice. Mar 18, 2013
Paul Madry
New York, NY
  5.11+ PG13
[Hide Comment] I think calling it R is nonsense. Its bolted, jut not as well as in other places in RR. I admit it did make me almost shit my pants as I hate falling but its only scary , not dangerous IMHO. Getting to 1st bolt on 3rd pitch maybe a little runout but its on easy 5.8ish climbing. difficulty-wise I think its more like 11+ than 11a compared to other climbs in RR . Apr 25, 2013
[Hide Comment] super good route
a couple of the lower holds on p1 are flexing- be careful.
not too run anywhere. the headiest parts are generally safe. the top of the final pitch has a move above a bolt. not sure if id give it an "r" maybe PG11-13 Mar 30, 2014
Vlad S
San Francisco, CA
  5.11a PG13
[Hide Comment] On the last pitch after the last bolt I forgot what the topo says and decided to quest over to the left on a gently rising traverse since it looked like the easiest option (I didn't see any chalk above). It's about 30 foot horizontal runout, but seemed pretty easy (5.9?) and was very secure. This way it can be linked into the last 15 feet of Risky business. I don't really get the grade inflation here. 11a in the guidebook and it's really not any harder. The hardest moves were just after the 2nd bolt on p 2 and between the last few bolts on p 3. Really stellar route! Apr 23, 2014
peachy spohn
Portland
  5.11b R
[Hide Comment] Amazing route! Excellent position and extremely fun moves. I would agree with the R rating as you could take long falls with the possibility of getting hurt...especially if any flake were to break. That being said the most difficult moves have bolts nearby. Loved the route! May 15, 2014
Drew Marshall
Squamish, BC
  5.11a PG13
[Hide Comment] Started on Sandstone Sandwich which was excellent
We rapped Risky Business with a single 60 (just barely made it - TIE KNOTS!!) Apr 20, 2015
[Hide Comment] This route has new bolts. Sep 14, 2018
[Hide Comment] Thanks for the new bolts! Dec 17, 2018
Moshe Shtilman
Portland Oregon
 
[Hide Comment] Thats a great experience if you look to break into the R grade. Apr 19, 2020
Bob Rotert
Broomfield
  5.11 R
[Hide Comment] Great route! Sandstone sandwich is a great way to start this route. Last pitch is sporty and I think scary heading up from the fourth bolt to the fith over the roof. After short bit a fall will send you over the roof and I don’t like contemplating my rope going over an edge when falling over a roof like this one. Believe I saw a post where someone who took this fall did have his sheath cut. Last pitch is quite heads up climbing. Mar 31, 2022