Type: | Trad, 290 ft (88 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Danny Meyers, Mike Ward 1991 |
Page Views: | 6,542 total · 26/month |
Shared By: | Todd Ritter on Aug 28, 2004 |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Once you've done this route you can see it while keeping the cooler company back at the Ice Box Canyon Parking Area. A very distinctive black streak comprises the crux second pitch. A lot of hiking for this one route, but a great way to round out the day if you're already in the canyon.
Scramble out of the wash to a prominent blonde pedestal of soft rock piled against the Refrigerator Wall. You'll see the bolts of Kisses Don't Lie around to the left of Breakaway while hiking in the wash.
The first pitch leaves the top of the pedestal past four bolts on some brown varnish. Every hard (5.8) move has a bolt where you need it. Near the top of the first pitch it slabs out. Set up a gear belay (#1, 1.25, and 3 friend) in some cracks near the top of the slab. You'll belay off some footholds, but still on the slab.
From the first belay, move up and left toward the first bolt and the beginning of the black streak. A blue alien and #2 wallnut protect some 10a moves up to the first bolt. Charge through the first two bolts on steep rock (crux, 10c). The wall above looks to be about 11d. You'll be thinking about those RP's you left at the base, but not to worry. The holds next to the thin seam are always good, the bolts (a total of eleven on this pitch) are close enough, and the position is fantastic. After the last bolt, there is a bit of a run-out on easier climbing, I plugged in a #2 friend before clipping the anchors.
You'll need two ropes for the rappels.
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