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Healy's Haunted House
5.8- X,
Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches,
Avg: 2.9 from 35
votes
FA: Bob Healy, Joe Herbst 1974
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> (06) White Rock…
> Angel Food Area
> Angel Food Wall
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
It begins on a bushy ledge at the base of a large chimney just right and uphill from Group Therapy.
(P1) Climb the chimney until reaching a ledge at about 135'.There will probably be rap slings at this point(5.7+). Belay here and wonder why there are rap slings.
(P2) The next lead is more than just interesting. I was able to place two marginal pieces of pro here to protect myself stemming the chimney to the jam above; one pulled; I doubt the other would have held a fall. A fall here would result in a bounce off the ledge then a plunge into the dark pit below 30'(5.9). On the ledge above the jam, there will again be rap slings. By this time, some parties will be late; some will be freaked out; and some will have lost all faith in the guide .
(P3 through P5) continue up the chimney/crack system to the top max 5.7.
Descent: go southwest to the gully and down. There will be one rap. The problems with this route are known to the climbing rangers at RR. The route description in the guide could be a misprint as per rating, pro difficulty and length; but I doubt it. The second pitch is deadly without a bolt.
[Hide Photo] New bolt on p2, Healy's Haunted House.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 5 beta: more fun to go straight up than traverse right, and no rope drag. Initial bulge (maybe 5.8, though on lead it may feel stiffer) followed by a couple other bulges. THIS is the money pi…
[Hide Photo] Right after pulling the crux on the 5.9 variation, get you some exposure! I definitely recommend this pitch!
[Hide Photo] P-2. Fun, if you're not leading it. ; ) Although, Jonny liked it. : ) He chose to place a Big Bro, and not clip the retro bolt, which may, or may not still be there. It's been awhile since we wer…
[Hide Comment] Second pitch is seriously dangerous. No way to protect and a horrible landing. There were still bail pro, slings and biners at the top of P1 as of May 2004.
May 5, 2004
[Hide Comment] I shouln't have rated this route 5.7 when I entered it in the data base. I followed the guide rating which was an error. The second pitch is 5.9 pg13 vs. Some might justifiably call it X. A bolt should be placed to protect it.
Apr 17, 2005
[Hide Comment] This route is OK, not good per se' but not bad either. The second pitch is definitely runout, but I'm sure it could be protected with a big bro as John mentioned. Please do not add a bolt; if you can't do the climb without a bolt then go climb one of the better routes at the grade in RR....josh
May 29, 2005
[Hide Comment] Hmmm, a buddy and I went up here the other day. We meant to climb Group Therapy but didn't bring a guide book and it sounds like we actually climbed this route instead. The second pitch had some kind of tricky chimneying right off the belay however there was a new looking bolt a little ways up. So either someone added a bolt or I have no clue what we actually did.
Dec 11, 2006
[Hide Comment] It's sad that Woody Stark (RIP) didn't enjoy this route because I had a lot of fun on Healy's Haunted House today.
The 5.7 rating is accurate considering that the route was first climbed by Herbst and company in 1974. Maybe the climb is a little stiff at 5.7 in this day and age.
There is indeed a new bolt protecting the former runout section at the start of p2. I was disappointed to see that. We brought a green #3 Big Bro which protected this section perfectly. The bolt is not needed so I didn't clip it...
Standard rack plus we brought single Camalot #4 and #5 plus the green Big Bro.
Apr 22, 2009
[Hide Comment] This route is classic and fun. With a set of big bro's it protects well and the climbing is very memorable. I am sad that someone added a bolt to the second pitch right next to a perfect bro placement.
Dec 20, 2009
[Hide Comment] This is one of the better routes on the wall imho. Sucks that someone would add a bolt to it. IF you don't like the runout do other routes on the wall. very simple. So it is far from 5.9 X the move is 5.7, feet on the flat wall and move to climbers right a few moves, spooky yes, but not that bad. there are way harder pitches on the route then the second, it is just runout. So do some homework, figure out that it is runout, if this is your limit of leading don't climb it. Why do you feel so entitled to climb everything? Plenty of routes in the Red Rock area that have been bolted into submission go climb those. Leave our routes alone. So many of the classic lines in RR have been slaughtered by bolts and cowards. Take up horseshoes or stay in the first couple of pullouts where are the bolts are close together. WOW no that is a rant! :)
Jul 9, 2010
[Hide Comment] Did this yesterday with a party of three. This is 5.7 NOT 5.9(unless you do the end variation) and it is not an X rated climb! Big Bro's could be used if run out chimney's spook you but are really not needed. I am 5'10 and 200lbs of fatty so the chimney wasn't scary. If you are smaller, slimer, or just suck at chimney's this might be more intimidating.
Pitch 1: 5.7 G/PG, 130 feet. Climb the pocketed slab on the right side of the chimney to reach a "ceiling". Pull the ceiling (5.7) and continue climbing the steep slab and crack staying closer to the right side of the chimney (one old ghetto rusted bolt on the slab can be clipped but on-demand pro is available in the crack on the right BD C4 #3). There are no chimney moves required on this pitch - much face climbing and some jamming. Belay at the double bolt anchor (right side) at an OK stance in the chimney.
Pitch 2: 5.7 PG13/R, 90 feet. Chimney your way straight up from the belay and about 20 feet above the belay bolts. There is a (loose) bolt in a pod. Clip it if you want. There's really no pro opportunity before the bolt or out but the going feels secure. Move out of the chimney and continue diagonalling up and right past a small tree aiming for the base of a large ledge which the tree is growing out of. Belay on gear. You will see a slung block which I assume people have bailed on (??) or have used to belay off but why? The ledge provides good gear anchors.
Pitch 3: 5.7 PG, 160 feet. From the belay ledge, aiming for the small tree (you will see it's branches poking out) move up and slightly left up the slab with a finger crack in it. Going is about 5.6 with some thinnish cams for pro. Pull the small overhang (to the right with a small chockstone)about 40 feet above belay ledge (~5.7) and continue straight up the 5.7-ish OW/ face climb. Belay at about 160 feet at an uncomfortable stance (it's as good as it gets) inside a narrow chimney next to the tiny, tree. As of 10/4/12 there is a threaded purple cord near the belay ledge.
Pitch 4: 5.6 - 5.7 PG/PG13, 140 feet. Continue straight up the narrow chimney/OW system until you arrive on a beautiful ledge inside the chimney. There is a little slabby parts you can run out if you want or place gear (this is where I'm guessing it's PG13 if you run it out). Belay on gear. As of 10/4/12 there is a 2 nut anchor with purple cord
Pitch 5: 5.6 - 5.7 PG/PG13, 140 feet. From the belay ledge, move up and right out of the chimney following easy but runout face. When you arrive at a "headwall" above, traverse RIGHT until you reach a wide crack/groove (to reduce rope drag set up a belay on gear or just tough it out). Move up the crack (~5.7) until able to move back left onto the face (there's a small bush near the top). At this point you're fighting some major rope drag. Fight your way left for about 30 feet and belay on low angle slabs at two bolts or go a little higher and built a gear anchor for a more comfortable belay.
Variation 5.9..(5.9+?) G/PG: Go straight up from the belay ledge following the narrrow chimney. BD C4 #3,#4, and some smaller (C3's or Mastercams work really well) gear protect this heady finish. The crux is getting around the sqeeze chimney then making a couple exposed moves to get above the squeeze. If you take a moment you will find holds and feet available. Build gear anchor or look for the bolts (climbers right)It would be more comforatable to belay off gear then those bolts.
Descent- Follow the gully out. You will see rap stations people have slung..WHY!? I just don't know. You don't need any of them. Top of gully back to car is about an hour.
Gear- We took BD C4 (1 set of each #1 to #4) 1set of Mastercams (used the purple and yellow) BD C3 (red yellow green) set of nuts and 12 slings. If your ify on pockets the first pitch will take tricams I imagine.
Note: I have done Tunnel Vision, Group Therpay too and HHH is by far the best and most fun. The 2nd pitch is no more dangerous then the run out tunnel pitch on TV. As a whole (minus the 2nd pitch) HHH has more gear placements then GT too! IMO. This is a very fun route and a 5.7/5.8 leader shouldn't shy away from it. Fun adventurous climbing took us car to car about 6 hours for a party of three.
Oct 5, 2012
[Hide Comment] Climbed this today finally in 3 pitches with a 80m rope. Pitch thoughts... P2 absolutely 5.7, but scary. As of today, the retrobolt still exists. It seemed like someone beat on the stud with a rock, still fine. Nut seems to need tightening if anyone has the forethought to bring some wrench or fancy nut tool. Neat place in there. P3 Look at that crazy slung block across the way and wonder what was going through someone's mind when they rapped off of it. P4 Finding an anchor above the chimney is interesting, climbed up and belayed on a ledge with a white rib on thinner stuff plus pinky tricam. NOTE: was reached with 10 ft of simuling. P5 on the face on the right of the squeeze, place a .5 or .75 below the bulge, stand up and feel for a blind #2 bomber horizontal Camalot a few feet up. The rock and holds are EXQUISITE 5.8 roof. You'll need tcus for the next bit, then that's it folks. No moving of belays or other shenanigans. A 5.8 leader might get spooked if they didn't know about the #2, and a Red Rocks 5.8 leader might need to change their pants afterwards.
Sep 27, 2015
[Hide Comment] Saw in the comments (and map) for P5, after emerging from chimney, to traverse right and then go up, then work left. Never climbed it this way. Going straight up is excellent—three consecutive bulges, all very do-able for the grade (~5.8). You can belay directly below this (horizontal crack takes tri-cams; maybe cams). This is the money pitch, especially if you're on the sharp end of the rope.
Pro: single rack to #3, HB off-sets, and tri-cams; 60m rope. Save small cams (0.1-0.4 X4s or small C3s) for anchor at top of P3.
Apr 15, 2019
[Hide Comment] THIS is a seriously good climb, almost as good as Frogland, and with the 2 bolts installed no longer runout. Carry a rack to 4" and bump the big piece up if you have to. I was able to place gear every 2-3m except on p5 on the 5.3 slab part. Be prepared for a series of thought provoking chimneys, caves, corners, cracks and faces! As a bonus you're in the shade 90% of the climb which is not bad for the second half of May. Bring a jacket unless the RRC temp is at least 25C.
I recommend using Justin Trayford's 2012 comment for pitch beta with 2 changes: The small tree halfway up p2 is gone, just go to the tree ledge. Do p5 as 2 pitches to avoid rope drag. IMHO the pitch ratings go: P1: 5.8, move onto slab at 15m feels hand pinchy/tenuous, rest in 5.7. P2: 5.9, chimney bulges in all the wrong places! Get your thinking hat on and you'll work it out. Well protected by single bolt 3m above anchor. P3-6: 5.7
May 22, 2022
[Hide Comment] This climb is tougher and more serious than some comments above may indicate. It is certainly a level harder and headier than Tunnel Vision. Maybe not quite 5.9, but the chimney on P2 is certainly not a casual 5.7.
P1 (5.7+ 130') is perhaps the best pitch of the route. Good movement on good rock with ample protection. A few 5.7+ moves but otherwise sustained at 5.6 / 5.7. Climb the pocketed slab inside the chimney to the 2-bolt belay anchor.
P2 (5.8+ 90') is not a pitch to lead if you're feeling nervous. The bolt is about 18 feet up and the trickiest climbing is before you reach it (hence the warranted 'X' rating). Also, there is a great placement for a green big-bro three feet to the right of the bolt, so the bolt is useless unless you don't have a green big-bro. The dimension of the chimney favors medium-sized people; taller people will be bunched up making it more difficult to get good purchase on the small foot edges. After the bolt / big-bro you have another 10 feet of chimney climbing, after which it become a 5.5 romp up to the belay ledge with a tree.
P3 (5.7+ 160') starts off innocently enough: go to the right side of the belay ledge and follow a left-leaning crack system up the slab. Aim for the far right side of the overlap 40' above the belay. Pull the awkward roof move (5.7+), then follow the off-width channel up to the larger roof. This section can be a little tricky to protect in spots (larger cams help) and may require some 5.7+ groveling. Pass the larger roof on the right, where the climbing gets easier. Belay at a stance of your choice in the crack / chimney system.
P4 & P5 (5.7 ~200') The next two pitches are generally fun 5.5 climbing with an occasional 5.7 move. Simply continue up the chimney system with lots of face climbing and stemming on solid rock. Belay options abound if you want to break this into two pitches, or run as one long pitch if you have a 70 meter rope. As you near the looming overhang above with a hanging chimney, veer out right on to a ledge system where you can easily walk 40 feet right to the base of a wide rotten crack. Belay here.
P6 (5.8 40') Climb the wide rotten crack. My least favorite pitch of the climb. Large cams (up to 5") are needed to protect this. Chossy groveling that is tough on tall guys, might feel easier for shorter people.
P6 Variation: At the end of P5 as described here, instead of veering out right to the rotten crack, head straight up into the hanging chimney. It looks pretty good and apparently it goes at 5.9. It is likely much better than the rotten crack and would probably improve the overall rating to a 3-star climb for me. Note that you could probably link this with P5, however if you want to do this as a separate pitch then you'll want to belay a good 30 or 40 feet below the chimney as there are no good anchor placements at the base of the chimney.
Oct 27, 2022
Quick question, has anyone done the squeeze chimney in the back that finishes up at the first belay? That last squeeze might be a bit tight.
I'd honestly call the second pitch an honest 5.7, even by Red Rocks standards. Also, the "runout" at the start of the second pitch is a chimney and super secure (if you know how to climb chimneys)
If you have any chimney experience, don't let the rating scare you off this amazing line!
Oct 30, 2024
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
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denver, co
Las Vegas, NV
The 5.7 rating is accurate considering that the route was first climbed by Herbst and company in 1974. Maybe the climb is a little stiff at 5.7 in this day and age.
There is indeed a new bolt protecting the former runout section at the start of p2. I was disappointed to see that. We brought a green #3 Big Bro which protected this section perfectly. The bolt is not needed so I didn't clip it...
Standard rack plus we brought single Camalot #4 and #5 plus the green Big Bro. Apr 22, 2009
Las Vegas, Nv
Pitch 1: 5.7 G/PG, 130 feet. Climb the pocketed slab on the right side of the chimney to reach a "ceiling". Pull the ceiling (5.7) and continue climbing the steep slab and crack staying closer to the right side of the chimney (one old ghetto rusted bolt on the slab can be clipped but on-demand pro is available in the crack on the right BD C4 #3). There are no chimney moves required on this pitch - much face climbing and some jamming. Belay at the double bolt anchor (right side) at an OK stance in the chimney.
Pitch 2: 5.7 PG13/R, 90 feet. Chimney your way straight up from the belay and about 20 feet above the belay bolts. There is a (loose) bolt in a pod. Clip it if you want. There's really no pro opportunity before the bolt or out but the going feels secure. Move out of the chimney and continue diagonalling up and right past a small tree aiming for the base of a large ledge which the tree is growing out of. Belay on gear. You will see a slung block which I assume people have bailed on (??) or have used to belay off but why? The ledge provides good gear anchors.
Pitch 3: 5.7 PG, 160 feet. From the belay ledge, aiming for the small tree (you will see it's branches poking out) move up and slightly left up the slab with a finger crack in it. Going is about 5.6 with some thinnish cams for pro. Pull the small overhang (to the right with a small chockstone)about 40 feet above belay ledge (~5.7) and continue straight up the 5.7-ish OW/ face climb. Belay at about 160 feet at an uncomfortable stance (it's as good as it gets) inside a narrow chimney next to the tiny, tree. As of 10/4/12 there is a threaded purple cord near the belay ledge.
Pitch 4: 5.6 - 5.7 PG/PG13, 140 feet. Continue straight up the narrow chimney/OW system until you arrive on a beautiful ledge inside the chimney. There is a little slabby parts you can run out if you want or place gear (this is where I'm guessing it's PG13 if you run it out). Belay on gear. As of 10/4/12 there is a 2 nut anchor with purple cord
Pitch 5: 5.6 - 5.7 PG/PG13, 140 feet. From the belay ledge, move up and right out of the chimney following easy but runout face. When you arrive at a "headwall" above, traverse RIGHT until you reach a wide crack/groove (to reduce rope drag set up a belay on gear or just tough it out). Move up the crack (~5.7) until able to move back left onto the face (there's a small bush near the top). At this point you're fighting some major rope drag. Fight your way left for about 30 feet and belay on low angle slabs at two bolts or go a little higher and built a gear anchor for a more comfortable belay.
Variation 5.9..(5.9+?) G/PG: Go straight up from the belay ledge following the narrrow chimney. BD C4 #3,#4, and some smaller (C3's or Mastercams work really well) gear protect this heady finish. The crux is getting around the sqeeze chimney then making a couple exposed moves to get above the squeeze. If you take a moment you will find holds and feet available. Build gear anchor or look for the bolts (climbers right)It would be more comforatable to belay off gear then those bolts.
Descent- Follow the gully out. You will see rap stations people have slung..WHY!? I just don't know. You don't need any of them. Top of gully back to car is about an hour.
Gear- We took BD C4 (1 set of each #1 to #4) 1set of Mastercams (used the purple and yellow) BD C3 (red yellow green) set of nuts and 12 slings. If your ify on pockets the first pitch will take tricams I imagine.
Note: I have done Tunnel Vision, Group Therpay too and HHH is by far the best and most fun. The 2nd pitch is no more dangerous then the run out tunnel pitch on TV. As a whole (minus the 2nd pitch) HHH has more gear placements then GT too! IMO. This is a very fun route and a 5.7/5.8 leader shouldn't shy away from it. Fun adventurous climbing took us car to car about 6 hours for a party of three. Oct 5, 2012
Seattle, WA
P2 absolutely 5.7, but scary. As of today, the retrobolt still exists. It seemed like someone beat on the stud with a rock, still fine. Nut seems to need tightening if anyone has the forethought to bring some wrench or fancy nut tool. Neat place in there.
P3 Look at that crazy slung block across the way and wonder what was going through someone's mind when they rapped off of it.
P4 Finding an anchor above the chimney is interesting, climbed up and belayed on a ledge with a white rib on thinner stuff plus pinky tricam. NOTE: was reached with 10 ft of simuling.
P5 on the face on the right of the squeeze, place a .5 or .75 below the bulge, stand up and feel for a blind #2 bomber horizontal Camalot a few feet up. The rock and holds are EXQUISITE 5.8 roof. You'll need tcus for the next bit, then that's it folks. No moving of belays or other shenanigans. A 5.8 leader might get spooked if they didn't know about the #2, and a Red Rocks 5.8 leader might need to change their pants afterwards. Sep 27, 2015
Las Vegas
Pro: single rack to #3, HB off-sets, and tri-cams; 60m rope. Save small cams (0.1-0.4 X4s or small C3s) for anchor at top of P3. Apr 15, 2019
Lower Hutt, NZ
I recommend using Justin Trayford's 2012 comment for pitch beta with 2 changes: The small tree halfway up p2 is gone, just go to the tree ledge. Do p5 as 2 pitches to avoid rope drag. IMHO the pitch ratings go:
P1: 5.8, move onto slab at 15m feels hand pinchy/tenuous, rest in 5.7.
P2: 5.9, chimney bulges in all the wrong places! Get your thinking hat on and you'll work it out. Well protected by single bolt 3m above anchor.
P3-6: 5.7 May 22, 2022
Las Vegas
P1 (5.7+ 130') is perhaps the best pitch of the route. Good movement on good rock with ample protection. A few 5.7+ moves but otherwise sustained at 5.6 / 5.7. Climb the pocketed slab inside the chimney to the 2-bolt belay anchor.
P2 (5.8+ 90') is not a pitch to lead if you're feeling nervous. The bolt is about 18 feet up and the trickiest climbing is before you reach it (hence the warranted 'X' rating). Also, there is a great placement for a green big-bro three feet to the right of the bolt, so the bolt is useless unless you don't have a green big-bro. The dimension of the chimney favors medium-sized people; taller people will be bunched up making it more difficult to get good purchase on the small foot edges. After the bolt / big-bro you have another 10 feet of chimney climbing, after which it become a 5.5 romp up to the belay ledge with a tree.
P3 (5.7+ 160') starts off innocently enough: go to the right side of the belay ledge and follow a left-leaning crack system up the slab. Aim for the far right side of the overlap 40' above the belay. Pull the awkward roof move (5.7+), then follow the off-width channel up to the larger roof. This section can be a little tricky to protect in spots (larger cams help) and may require some 5.7+ groveling. Pass the larger roof on the right, where the climbing gets easier. Belay at a stance of your choice in the crack / chimney system.
P4 & P5 (5.7 ~200') The next two pitches are generally fun 5.5 climbing with an occasional 5.7 move. Simply continue up the chimney system with lots of face climbing and stemming on solid rock. Belay options abound if you want to break this into two pitches, or run as one long pitch if you have a 70 meter rope. As you near the looming overhang above with a hanging chimney, veer out right on to a ledge system where you can easily walk 40 feet right to the base of a wide rotten crack. Belay here.
P6 (5.8 40') Climb the wide rotten crack. My least favorite pitch of the climb. Large cams (up to 5") are needed to protect this. Chossy groveling that is tough on tall guys, might feel easier for shorter people.
P6 Variation: At the end of P5 as described here, instead of veering out right to the rotten crack, head straight up into the hanging chimney. It looks pretty good and apparently it goes at 5.9. It is likely much better than the rotten crack and would probably improve the overall rating to a 3-star climb for me. Note that you could probably link this with P5, however if you want to do this as a separate pitch then you'll want to belay a good 30 or 40 feet below the chimney as there are no good anchor placements at the base of the chimney. Oct 27, 2022
Seattle, WA
Quick question, has anyone done the squeeze chimney in the back that finishes up at the first belay? That last squeeze might be a bit tight.
I'd honestly call the second pitch an honest 5.7, even by Red Rocks standards. Also, the "runout" at the start of the second pitch is a chimney and super secure (if you know how to climb chimneys)
If you have any chimney experience, don't let the rating scare you off this amazing line! Oct 30, 2024