Jeff L.

[Hide Comment] There is a new Variation to Tunnel Vision. A 4 bolt direct start (5.9) about 30 yards from the original line that will take you all the way to the 2nd station on Tunnel Vision with a 200 foot rope. Once at the 2nd Station look left for a bolt and continue up the crack. Remain in the crack and avoid the chimney (5.8) or after about 20 feet or so look left again and you should spot a bolt line running further left. This is a 2 pitch (5.7-5.8) bolted variation to Tunnel Vision that will take you to the platform belay at the entrance to the tunnel. Great way to avoid a conga line on Tunnel Vision. Mar 26, 2004

George Bell Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] It's possible to get off-route at the start of pitch 2 if you select the righthand chimney. The comment in the Urioste guide on pitch 2 "bearing left where choices present themselves" should not be ignored. We bore right and ended up on "Stilgar's Wild Ride", but after a pitch you can wander back left and come back into Tunnel Vision before entering the tunnel. Apr 12, 2004

Scott Conner Lyons, CO

[Hide Comment] There is gear in the tunnel. You can't sew it up but I got two or three pieces in the back wall. Just look around... Apr 14, 2004

John Hegyes Las Vegas, NV   5.7

[Hide Comment] Enjoyed this climb a lot today. Started at 11am and was in the shade all day. Just for the sake of accuracy, the pair of bolts at the top of pitch 2 have had their hangers removed. It's not a big deal, there is a suitable vertical crack in that same location for use as a belay anchor. Some people link pitches 2 and 3. Aug 28, 2004

46and2 Salt Lake City, Utah   5.7 PG13

[Hide Comment] Great route with unique experiences!! Pitch one is pretty fun but even if you do not place any gear in the first 15 feet (recommend NOT placing any gear hear to prevent rope drag); your rope can get stuck in a crack when you climb past the first big ledge so use gear to keep the rope from some heinous drag, it sucks. Pitch 2 is easy and fun. Pitch 3 I took the variation on the left face following a thin crack the opens and closes up; not too terribly difficult but heady for sure. Pitch 4 is pure fun and totally casual!! The tunnel pitch 5 is a cool experience and unique but fairly serious IMHO; not too hard but you sure as hell wouldn't want to slip on the slippery rock. The last pitch was the best pitch by far with super fun mini-roof moves that are a dream!! Have at it and have fun; just be a little careful. Mar 23, 2007

jblackattack blac las vegas, nv   5.7

[Hide Comment] I heard a lot about this climb before hand but unfortunately it did not live up to its praise for me. I would barley give this climb 1.5 stars. There are much better climbs on this wall. Sep 9, 2007

Steve123

[Hide Comment] In March 2008, the pitch 2 anchor bolts were still present. This is a semi-hanging belay and good rope management (e.g. lap coiling) here is important, as the crack below this station eats ropes. I spent a good amount of time freeing up the stuck rope of the party above me. There were cut-off pieces of other ropes stuck in the same spot. In the tunnel, there are a few good tricam placements in pockets in the back wall. Apr 14, 2008

George Wilson Las Vegas

[Hide Comment] If anyone is missing Chewbacca I found him...Heady 3rd pitch! I'm not kidding about Chewbacca, I really found him! Oct 21, 2008

Doug Foust Oroville, WA

[Hide Comment] A headlamp for the tunnel is quite silly, not dark enough in there for it to really make a difference. Nov 22, 2008

Ron Graham   5.7 PG13

[Hide Comment] Tall people need not be very concerned about the relative lack of pro in the 5th pitch; the ceiling contains numerous shelves and big pockets that make it very easy to keep your feet at 90 degrees to the slick rock face as you stem up it. For shorter people who can't stem the route as well, we found 3 good placements: 1.) a small parallel crack about 15 feet up that will take a BD microcam or a ball nut, 2.) a larger pocket on the ceiling another 15 feet up that will take a small cam, and 3.) a pocket on the right side of the bulge on the face just after which you reach the shelf that traverses out of the tunnel. The face alternative for pitch 3 has cracks and pockets that can be sewn up with pro. It also has relatively good holds on it but you must traverse back into the chimney at the top (hardest moves for this variation.) I did a layback to get up and over the top, but my partners found there are parallel cracks that let you hug the pillar as you ascend near the top of the chimney. I give this a PG-13 rating because of the spicy start. You need to use your feet well there but it can be hard to see all the delicate footplacements if you're wearing an over-the-shoulder sling of pro. However, the parallel crack at the top goes from sloper where there are good foot placements to bomber edge where the feet get thin. If you lose foot traction on the face at that point you can pick it up quickly my moving your feet around the corner into the groove. Since it's a little blind, this could be the hardest move on the route. Nov 24, 2008

Will S Joshua Tree

[Hide Comment] Did this with the face variations for the 1st and 4th? pitches. Brock topo is inaccurate at best, and the thing seems to have sprouted some extra belays. 1st pitch variation is about 60' with 4 bolts, not the 160' Brock gives it. Don't miss the tunnel pitch if doing the variations, at a point after passing the second bolted anchor on the upper variation, about 20' below an obvious wide crack (~6"), traverse right around a sandy blunt/rounded corner to belay on the ledge below the tunnel. Definitely recommend the variations. You can link the tunnel pitch and last pitch with a 70m (may need to simul a few feet). Nov 25, 2008

Erik in CO Colorado Springs, CO

[Hide Comment] Pitch 1: Somewhat scary starting traverse with fall to ground if you miss-step. Protection is slightly sparse this pitch. Pitch 2: Fun pitch, not very long though. Bolts at belay station are present but not strictly necessary as there was a crack in which an anchor could be built. We lost a good bit of time with some poor rope management here. Pitch 3: Did the face climb variant. Face bolt was helpful, protection was good until crux, at which point I found it a bit lacking. Pitch 4: Fun. Don't know if there was many opportunities for placements after going around the roof. I just dealt with the runout on very easy climbing. Pitch 5: Also fun. Placements somewhat sparse but adequate (esp as getting here means you are comfortable leading in the 5.7+ range). I climbed up about 20 feet and found two stopper placements, traversed left and found a small cam placement in the back wall, had a placement at the lodged rock, and then continued a traverse left out of the tunnel. Last few feet of traverse were a bit tricky and had no protection, but handholds exist on the back wall. Remainder was easy climbing. Pitch 6: Climbed the crack to the roof then traversed left, as we were short on time and tired. Fun climbing with plenty of protection. Overall a fun rout, esp. from pitch 4 on. The descent took a lot longer than I was expecting. Plan for about an hour and a half. We did it with no rappel. Mar 19, 2009

Jay Holland Marietta, GA

[Hide Comment] Great Route, but respect the lack of areas for pro. The third pitch can be pretty run out and though it is only 5.7 a slip caused quite a painful fall. May want to look at the variation for this pitch. Not sure what the variation is rated but it does have a few bolts for pro(ewww) but safe. Great views! Mar 31, 2009

Tim Anders Las Vegas

[Hide Comment] I agree, not worthy of the stars. Purblind Pillar is way more fun. Jun 17, 2009

Tyson Anderson SLC, UT   5.7 R

[Hide Comment] Really fun route. The last two pitches are the best in my opinion and the third pitch just sucks. I was able to place one micro-nut in the tunnel but I didn't look really hard for other placements. The tunnel isn't as scary as some have said, it's just really fun unusual climbing. Sep 20, 2009

Peter Lewis Bridgton, ME   5.7

[Hide Comment] As of October, 09, the hangers are back on at the bolted anchor atop P2. The variation to P.3, which clips a bolt just above the bolted belay and then heads a few feet left to a shallow right facing corner/crack, is excellent, soft for 5.8, and well-protected all the way to back into the chimney. You will have to run out the last 15 feet or so of the chimney, but the rail on the left edge of the chimney offers amazing holds and the stemming is easy. In the tunnel, DO NOT go up past the chockstone that is visible straight up--go up twenty five feet or so, then head almost horizontally left along a ramp to reach the "window" mentioned in the guides. What a fun little route. Oct 31, 2009

Justin York Phoenix, AZ

[Hide Comment] I highly recommend the following linkup! Did the first pitch of tunnel vision, just to find a long line at the top of the pitch. Decided to do the next few pitches of Stilgards Wild Ride (5.8) which meets up w/tunnel vision belay at the base of the "tunnel" pitch, and then finished on tunnel vision. This combo makes for a bunch of great pitches - three stars for sure! And the "tunnel" pitch really wasn't that great, IMHO. Mar 19, 2010

Drederek Olympia, WA   5.7

[Hide Comment] Black Dagger was way better, this one didn't live up to the hype. May 3, 2010

Joe Cayer Mesa, Az   5.7 PG13

[Hide Comment] Just climbed this one on Friday. Have to say that I was disappointed. I'd heard mixed reviews about it but wanted to climb just the same. I wouldn't go on this one again, interesting climb but nothing particularly great about it. May 17, 2010

Clint Locks Boulder

[Hide Comment] Bring a pink and red tri-cam for the tunnel pitch. After exiting the tunnel, if you're comfortable doing so, consider climbing a bit up the corner before placing gear. This will minimize any swing into the corner if your second comes off in the tunnel. Apr 5, 2011

Mike M Sandia Park, NM   5.7+ R

[Hide Comment] #3.5 camalot and #4 C4 provides a handy overlap on almost every pitch. Pink and red tricam was a great suggestion! There's only one place they'll fit that I found, and it was a perfect equalized pair with two shoulder slings. I also managed to stick an orange metolius TCU in the back wall a few moves up from the tricams, which made the follower more confident, but had she slipped I bet the pendulum would've ripped it from the soft flare. The stemming at the end of the tunnel had me sketched, and I opted to go diagonally upward about 15' to obtain the crack - BAD choice, as this final chimney was very difficult. Don't let the comments, above, sandbag you. The rating is legit, and the P3 chimney climbing is thin and difficult. Guidebooks seem to imply that the hand traverse on P1 is the crux, but I honestly didn't have much trouble there. Make sure leader and follower are both solid chimney climbers for this one. Apr 20, 2011

Peter Pitocchi

[Hide Comment] the Tunnel pitch is much harder than 5.3 to me I am 6 feet felt sustained 5.7+ happily I was following. Surprised to hear anybody getting pro, though I didn't really look myself. Apr 22, 2011

Fink Fink Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT   5.7+ PG13

[Hide Comment] It isn't necessarily the most aesthetic line or movement, but I thought it was a fun route, worth doing for the novelty of the chimney pitch alone. Make sure you sing the theme song from Mario during the tunnel pitch--it helps you send. May 25, 2011

Cunning Linguist

[Hide Comment] Classic every time. Funky, old school, varied, R rated for sure, though fairly easy and doable for solid 5.8 leaders. A good adventure. Aug 21, 2011

RAZORsharp CA

[Hide Comment] I thought this was a great climb, a real, by any means necessary movement through some steller looking sandstone. I led pitches 1-3, linking 2 and 3. I would not recommend this, as there was severe rope drag, making the crux off-width very heady. Marginal gear in the crux, but the climbing is solid, mostly. I was luckily on a 70m rope, or else i would've been short roped moving out of the crux chimney onto thin, albeit good hold on the face. Some good smaller cams/ nuts work well in the pocketed face. I DEFINITELY made it an R, facing a 30ft+ run out through the crux until I was able to place an old style BD 4. you can place that size more than once on the crux pitch.I thought the cave pitch was awesome, although I dont think climbing it with a heavy pack was a good idea... Descent is awesome, providing an incredible view the whole way down. look for cairns before committing to any descent, as some trails lead you to a quick drop. Id recommend gloves, and some warm gear as the belays are always in the shade, and get very cold. Dont forget your headlamp, as parties above make for an almost guaranteed epic. Started at 1030am, was back at the car at 830 pm.... Feb 21, 2012

Xavier Wasiak Las Vegas, NV

[Hide Comment] Alternate 5.9 start to the right is well worth while. Fun moves. Feb 26, 2012

Scott Sebring

[Hide Comment] it was fun,amazing ,awesome,committing,scary,sketchy,but had the time of my life,was alo my 1st multi-pitch,ended up not getting down till dark and couldnt find my partners pack and had car keys in it and walked 7 miles to the visitors center and had to sleep in the bathroom but my partner and me were in such good spirits that we laughed off and on through out the night. Mar 25, 2012

Nelson Day Joshua Tree, CA   5.7 PG13

[Hide Comment] Do the chimney on pitch 3. Adds a lot of spice. I bumped my #4 cam up for about the first 40 feet, and then left it and did a couple face moves around the very vertical offwidth. After I got a nut and a cam placed on the face around the vertical offwidth, I reached back and grabbed my #4 cam out of the crack and took it up. My partner thanked me. There is a variation where you can climb the face out left on bolts, but it's a trad route! The face moves were reachy in the offwidth section. But they protected nicely. I really ran out the pitches I led, but felt pretty secure. This would be very heady for someone at their limit, so I rated the route PG-13. Mostly because of the third pitch. I placed 3 pieces in the tunnel on the back wall in pockets, as others have described. But 3 pieces in 80 feet is pretty run out for most people. Agreed that a headlamp is not necessary, but helped me find the pockets and make sure the gear was placed well. Inside the tunnel, head towards the back of the tunnel and stem off of the wall opposing the face. Not marked very well by chalk. Pitches 1, 2, 3, and 5 all included chimney moves of some sort, so get ready for chimneying. Not difficult chimney moves, but chimney nonetheless. Packs may get in the way a bit, especially when the chimney gets tighter, but we both wore packs and were glad to have the water. Pitch 4 is an absolute joy. Big jugs and a great protectable crack the whole way up to the cave entrance. Bees followed us up the entire route! Even in the cave! My partner got stung at the bottom of the route. So annoying. Note on the single rope rap: we descended as per the cairns for about 100 yards. The trail leads to the right across a couple ledges. Where the trail appears to go down steeply (would require some pretty serious downclimbing), there is a good sized juniper tree. We passed the rope around the tree and used it as a rap station. There aren't any bolts to rap off of, or even a sling around the tree, but you can see the rope marks around the tree where others have done the same thing. Route was mostly in the shade all day and pleasant to climb, even in early June with ambient temperatures near 100. Took full rack of Metolius master cams, full rack of BD camalots to #4, a full set of nuts, and 12 slings. Was glad to have the pro options. I did pitch 1 in two sections to avoid rope drag. There is a rock with a bunch of slings around it at the top of pitch 1, pitch 2 has a bolted belay, pitch 3 had a rock with ropes slung around it I used for the belay, pitch 4 was a gear anchor, pitch 5 was a gear anchor, and pitch 6 was a gear anchor. I really don't understand when you look at the topo for the route and see a 150 foot pitch requiring a gear anchor, and the guide book recommends a single rack... Jun 11, 2012

Justin.Trayford   5.7 PG13

[Hide Comment] I did this not to long ago with a buddy of mine. We did the bolted variation at the start to get around a large (slow)party. The bolted start was fun. A lot of big moves to big jugs. Pitch 2 was a fun easy chimney with more pro then you know what to do with. Pitch 3 sucked!(IMHO) I was so happy I was leading the even pitches after getting thru that mess. It's a hard to protect off-width climb. This is a 5.7+ "R" pitch. Stay calm and keep your head straight (the climbing isn't "hard" it's very heady and the lack of good pro adds to the head game)..you'll get thru it and be rewarded by a large ledge to rest on (we ate lunch and took in the views). Pitch 4 Pull the easy roof with jugs. After that it's like climbing a ladder. Don't get fooled by the "small" cave ledge you'll see. Just keep going up. The top of this pitch is the gigantic tunnel ledge. Pitch 5 starts on that epic ledge I mentioned. Don't drop anything you'll never be able to retrieve it! You will see all sorts of dropped gear just out of reach. If you are adventurouse and are looking for lost booty you can cash in here with prior planning. Anyways the tunnel I'm 5'10 200lbs of fatty so the tunnel wasn't scary. Just think like a puffer if you slip! Don't let the lack of protection intimidate you! The climbing is easy and secure (my opinion.) Make sure you face the many and abundent holds while going up this section. It's all in the way you face! Pitch 6 is a nice crack. We went up to the traverse ledge (you will see the ledge to climbers left), built an anchor (below the hard looking part...you'll see), and the belay man cleaned and shot out around the ledge. This keeps rope drag down especially walking out and around the ledge. It's got some nice exposure walking around the ledge. Descent: If you came this far might as well just walk out. No need to rap! The gully walk is well marked with cairns. It is steep at first and has a couple 4th class moves. You will see the wash below and above the wash is an old road which will take you back to the parking area. Car to car 5 hours. Keep in mind we were slowed by a party ahead of us and did lunch on the top of P3 and tried to recover dropped gear on the top of P4. Jun 14, 2012

marc g San Francisco, CA   5.7 PG13

[Hide Comment] Tunnel vision probably cured my affinity for chimneys. I like them enough, and I was pretty happy about stemming thru the narrow stuff on the 1st and 2nd pitch. Even when I had to set up below the bolts on the 2nd belay station and build an anchor an a narrow chimney that barely fit me, nevermind my partner. No, the thing that cured me was that long slog up the chimney on the 3rd pitch with the 'grunty' face transition. I had hung my backpack off my harness with a sling, and I was just tired of having to deal with that trying to sabotage my legs. On pitch 5, after the tunnel, we didn't belay immediately outside the tunnel as some guides suggest. The belay 50 ft up worked fine. The tunnel was pretty cool, especially when we topped out and my friends that were climbing Sandy Hole (starting to the left of us) were below, on the ledge to the right of us. Also, we had 3 different topos, and they were totally different in regards to belays and ratings. The most accurate diagram was probably Supertopo. Nov 29, 2012

Aaron Wait North Bend, WA   5.7

[Hide Comment] On the crux pitch 3 with the words "climb onto the face" ringing in my head I climbed up the face to the (climbers) right of the crux chimney. I pulled a 5.9ish move to a good hold, placed a red alien backed up by a small nut, then followed flakes and crimps in a traverse further over onto the exposed face of the wall between P3 and stilgar's wild ride. Some adrenaline and the presence of fairly decent holds kept me traversing out onto the face where I encountered a large loose block which was the first indication to myself that I may have been off route. I managed to find a blue alien placement in a horizontal. Then following decent holds up the slabby face I found a green(or yellow) alien placement in a hollow flake. I then ran it out to the top of the pillar and hit a large ledge. Some easy traversing back (climbers) left got me to the regular belay ledge above pitch 3. I do not think this was the variation discussed in the comments above as there were no bolts and the comments above describe climbing to the left of the crux chimney pitch (p3). Anyone else climb right like I did? Traversing out onto the face was exposed and fun and there was some gear.. Mar 31, 2013

Sean Oak Park, CA

[Hide Comment] got on this to enjoy the wide P3. belayed at a more comfortable ledge about 15 ft below the P2 anchor bolts. didn't find the P3 initial section "smooth" like books or some said. nice sequence of features to keep going up on, not abundant but just enough. brought two #4's but ended up not needing to stretch into main crack to place them. adequate pro up to one blue Camalot within arm's length just left of crack for the upper half of that wide stretch. fun roof at start of P4 too, adventurous P5 tunneling, and wild P6 roof just before topout. many stretches of happy jugs throughout, thought all pitches fun. went with two 28 oz water bottles to not have a pack, one clipped to each side, just enough for route (shaded from morning sun by dihedrals much of way) and sunny walkoff on a hot day May 4, 2013

austin ely Las Vegas, NV   5.7+

[Hide Comment] Climbed this on Saturday, left a shiny new sling and quicklink on the juniper tree. Super fun route; may have made the tunnel harder than it needed to be by climbing up about 20 feet from the final traverse ledge into the 1-2 foot squeeze before traversing. I'm not super experienced with chimneys but it felt about 5.8 and scary with the runout. Exhilarating, and it made that hand crack feel oh so sweet at the end. May 6, 2013

saxfiend Decatur, GA

[Hide Comment] Really wish we could have finished this route, but had to bail from halfway up the second pitch due to rain. Led P1, which had a pretty attention-getting start. May 11, 2013

W L NEVADASTAN   5.7

[Hide Comment] A few things: 1. The bolts are still there. 2. The approach and descent are EXCEEDINGLY well-cairned. 3. It was in the low 90's today in town and it was very comfortable climbing in the shade. If I weren't rope soloing and thus constantly moving I may have even been kinda cool at belays with the breeze that the upper portion of the route receives. 4. Had the place to myself. Didn't suck, but was kinda unnerving rope soloin' a long route for the first time. 5. The tunnel does not require a headlamp. Just solid chimney technique. That being said, I wasn't particularly impressed with the route with the exception of the tunnel pitch. Beyond that it was lackluster, and I like the wide stuff. Weston May 12, 2013

Ted Smith Huachuca City, AZ   5.7+ PG13

[Hide Comment] Excellent Summer climb! Had the entire wall to ourselves this Tuesday. Cracks and chimneys provide natural air conditioning.. Started route about 8:30 and in the shade almost entirety of day, including excellent descent trail. Only bad part was hike to car at 2:30 pm with temp over 100. Pitch 3 squeeze is fabulous! Give it a 7 plus pg13 though due to sparse gear and technical footwork! A green big bro was nice for the crux. Great day! Jun 6, 2013

Mike Harris DFW DFW, Texas

[Hide Comment] Climbed with 3 others and we all agree that the opening hand traverse is way, way harder than 5.7 and PG+++. The pro, a nut placement that would hold a fall, will lead to a pendulum back into the wall and not protecting to avoid rope drag will lead to a serious deck. I just don't get it. That said, the rest of the route was fun. The 3rd pitch crux went a lot better out on the face. Descended in the dark and were very grateful that cairns amundo marked the way. Oct 3, 2013

Michael Douglas Yucaipa, CA

[Hide Comment] Did the face variation. Super fun, well protected mixed (mostly bolted) - so may bolts that I found myself skipping bolts and pulling carabineers off my cams. I hate chimney and it was a GREAT alternative (4 stars); also made things fast. Started climbing around 9am back to the car by 1pm. Mar 19, 2014

Rob Griffiths NYS

[Hide Comment] On Pitch 6, we anchored just below a final roof section (after the crack pitch exiting the tunnel). From here, I pulled through the roof and wandered up and right up the blank looking face. I thought this was the "Steep finish" pointed out by Handren (P6). I found myself on a steep face with a headwall about 30-40ft up. A few smaller pieces of gear could be placed early on but that was it for a while. Eventually, I passed the steeper "headwall" by traversing and finding some intricate holds up and right. This resulted in a top out at some large boulders . I found this variation "interesting" on lead. A guide and his client, followed me and my partner shortly after and agreed with the interesting part. Has anyone else made a similar modification to the normal route and I am wondering an approximate grade? I'm not sure I would intentionally lead this again, but it made for a fairly wild ending to an already awesome route. Apr 25, 2014

Cunning Linguist

[Hide Comment] ^^^Been there, done that. My first time on the route, I pebble wrestled above 00 TCUs and other thinness, broke off a bunch of the moki marbles as I went (not stressful, I always hyperventilate like that) and topped out direct. Fun, once it's over. After passing the roof you hang a left, it's easy to miss. Apr 25, 2014

G. Vesp Las Vegas, Nevada   5.7+ PG13

[Hide Comment] Great route with some definite spice! I consider myself a 5.7ish trade leader and didn't find any of the climbing above my comfort zone, but definitely thought IMHO that there were some areas that you need to feel comfortable well above your gear. On the 3rd pitch chimney/ off-width, I wandered out left and clipped one face bolt and placed gear in a short vertical crack. Ultimately I wandered back right into the off-width to finish the pitch although there was an additional face bolt that looked like it would allow you to continue straight up the face. The tunnel pitch I thought was awesome and much less committing than what I thought it would be. If you use the outside wall as well, it is extremely secure. I placed my first piece of gear after I exited the tunnel and at no point did I ever feel insecure with the moves. Overall it was an excellent route with added adventure because of the run-out overall nature of the route. Enjoy and be safe!!! May 1, 2014

jacobleowook Las Vegas

[Hide Comment] A local climber informed us that there were no more bees. We unfortunately came to find out that he was just lucky enough not to have seen them. After the tunnel pitch we were followed by 2 small swarms of aggressive bees. Literally the bees were flying in our pants, shoes, and landing on us. Unless you like added adrenaline by being stung I would skip this route. Luckily we had tweezers in our pack to pull out the stinger. Aug 3, 2014

gavinsmith Toronto, Ontario 5.7

[Hide Comment] I managed to go the wrong way in the tunnel. I recalled 'go towards the light' briefly and went for the first light I saw, which was up, without thinking. Nope. Left and straight, horizontal. My second had fun tracing my steps to get the couple very high pieces I'd put in the back wall. We did get stuck behind a slow party of 3 at the bottom of the 3rd pitch. Went around to the right, it was a pleasant variation to the entrance of the tunnel. Sep 3, 2014

Likeasummerthursday Las Vegas, Nevada

[Hide Comment] Agree that this route is not really something to write home about. That said, we got bees on second and third belays. Pitch one hand traverse is easy but poorly protected. Singles to #4. Handren's " optional big piece" would be appreciated on p3, but I wouldn't bring it. Carrying/hauling pack is no fun. Rock is high quality, and if you dig moderate chimneys, this is the route! Leader used headlamp in the tunnel and found it helpful, but he only placed one piece anyway. Descent: follow the cairns! It is well marked. We saw one rapell anchor. We didn't use it. Squeeze the slot next to it. Very easy. Sep 30, 2014

Ryan Stefani

[Hide Comment] I love this climb. After we got on route and found the two bolt anchor at the top of P2, I got P3. There was one bolt on the fact and the rest was gear. I didn't notice any old chopped bolts either. I'm curious where the bolts were. P3 was stellar. P4 was okay, but P5 and 6 were great. P5 was just fun and different an cool. P6 was a wonderful moderate, steep corner to a wonderful and easy roof. We went all the way to the back corner on 5.0 an 4th class terrain and just walked down with only about 10' of down climbing total. If you looking for something different than the crimp, high-step, crimp, high-step nature of many of the climbs, this one is it! Note: be sure to head left in the tunnel pitch up the ramp towards the window! Oct 17, 2014

Barrett Stetson   5.7+ PG13

[Hide Comment] Climbed this mainly because the tunnel pitch sounded unique, even though I kind of hate chimneys, so it was my own fault, but wasn't really into this climb. Found the first pitch hand traverse less secure than I was hoping since I didn't put in any gear to avoid drag. Pitch 2 not bad. Pitch 3 sucked. Not sure if I got sucked too far in, but I got into a spot midway up that didn't have very secure feet and was too tight to really smear, and no gear in. Wish I had tried the bolted 5.8 variation. Pitch 4 easy. Pitch 5 was actually kind of cool, and didn't find moves very hard, just chimney and stem off back, take it slow and think your moves through. One piece of gear until you reach corner exiting tunnel. Pitch 6 was ok too. Built intermediate anchor after coming up to standing position after going through roof so second could hear me, otherwise would have been impossible. Then a short jaunt up face going around left side to get to gully. Long way down gully and I thought some of the down climbing was not trivial and wasn't quite expecting that. Wouldn't bring seconds on this who aren't fairly comfortable with some technical down climbing. ps - dropped little gray 00 mastercam down into crack maybe 10' from entrance to tunnel pitch, maybe 8' down. Just sitting there. Probably could fish out with fishing line and weighted hook or something without too much work if anyone is interested. Oct 24, 2014

dwsnider Tempe

[Hide Comment] Found a GoPro (New Model) on the climb this last weekend. It has a special identifier on it. Message me the details on what you lost and I can get it back to you! -Dakota dwsnider@asu.edu Dec 16, 2014

Josh C Somewhere out West   5.7 R

[Hide Comment] This climb didn't live up to the hype for me. There are some good pitches interspersed with a lot of mediocre climbing. The 2nd pitch is good and of course the tunnel through pitch is classic, but there is definitely better to be had in Red Rocks at the grade. 3 stars for the good pitches I mention and 1 star for everything else. Jan 29, 2015

rileyfriesen North Hollywood

[Hide Comment] I've climbed this route a couple times, I think it's really fun and interesting. I want to comment about the variation on the 3rd pitch crux. The "bolted" 5.8 face as one bolt, but plenty of spots for pro. I highly recommend moving out on to the face there, however, I'm not a fan of off-width chimneys. I find it far easier than climbing basically the whole pitch without pro. Also the direct finish isn't that hard, has lots of pro and I also find preferable. My 2 cents!! Apr 6, 2015

micah richard Litchfield, Connecticut

[Hide Comment] 5.8 bolted face beta: . From the 2 bolt anchor at the end of pitch two, climb directly above anchor to the first bolt , which is hard to see from down in the chimney. Follow a shallow right facing corner that takes good (small) gear. Near the top of corner, keep looking left over the bulge, where you will discover another bolt ,(also not real easy to spot) which leads up to the left to more bolts and a few gear placements. Excellent pitch, with plenty of exposure and a bit spicy in places. Belay at an obvious two bolt anchor. Pitch 2 clips 2 or 3 bolts then follows the crack , which leads to the base of the tunnel pitch. i'd call both pitches soft 5.8. Apr 9, 2015

hazmat San Luis Obispo

[Hide Comment] Lost Cam. Climbed this on Wens. 4-9-15 and think my Purple .5 C4 got left behind on pitch 1 or maybe later, but before the tunnel. If anyone finds it I will gladly pay shipping and a bit extra for the hassle of returning it. Apr 13, 2015

JeanGClimbs Reading, VT   5.7+ PG13

[Hide Comment] This route has more sustained climbing than Group Therapy but in general it is better protected. I agree the starting moves are harder than 5.7 and probably the hardest section on the whole route. The tunnel pitch is unique and the last pitch is pure joy, especially after all the squeezes below - a welcome relief! Apr 22, 2015

Rhoda Boston, MA

[Hide Comment] lots of shade = lots of crowds. i think there were maybe 5 parties on this route the day we went up it (end of april). May 11, 2015

Travis O'Neil Las Vegas, NV

[Hide Comment] I think I accidentally left a pink tricam and 24" runner at the top of the last pitch, the part that traverses left. Enjoy the booty, put it to good use! Nov 27, 2015

eli poss Durango, CO

[Hide Comment] Don't be intimidated by the large amount of chimneying involved on this route. I did a lot of the chimneying I've only ever done 2 or 3 pitches of chimney so my technique probably isn't up to par. Despite my shitty technique, the chimneys were pretty mellow minus a short grunty squeeze section on the tunnel pitch. It's not difficult, but do bring a good head game for some slight runnouts. I highly recommend the bolted variation for P3 and P4. From the top of P2, clip a bolt almost right off the belay, and trend left up the face, using the crack or slinging knobs for pro between the protection bolts. Kinda thin in some sections but fairly easy by slab standards and very fun knobby face. At the top of the P3 variation, there is a two bolt anchor to belay from a smallish ledge and the next pitch has 2 protection bolts and gear all the way up to the start of the tunnel pitch, P5. We belayed from a stance behind a boulder on the ledge, backed up by a slung knob. For the tunnel pitch, I used minimal pro, mostly for the follower, and belayed at a ledge with a split in it where I jammed my leg in for a stance, backed up by a green totem cam. I believe this belay was a bit higher than the normal belay for P5 but it allowed me to go all the way to the summit for P6 instead of ending early by traversing at the ledge below the roof. P6 was the money pitch, and if you're comfy on runnout 5.7ish slab/knobby face then go all the way to the summit and belay at the boulders. Running it out on a slabby face at the top of P6, 25+ feet above a yellow WC zero was a very fun, memorable experience and I highly recommend it to any comfortable 5.8 trad leader, especially if you enjoy slab. For those nervous, though, you can reduce the runnout by sling a knob or two on the face, but IMO doing so interrupts some amazing face climbing. Besides, cool cats run it out. I highly recommend doing the route this way for full value, but remember to bring a good amount of runners for slinging knobs. We brought a single set of cams from 0 TCU size to #3 camalot but would probably bring a #4 if doing the awful-width P3. This more than enough pro, and I may even replace the #3 with a large hex if doing it again. Nov 29, 2015

Dustin Meyer Yucca Valley, CA

[Hide Comment] If you like chimneys, you'll love this route. If you don't like chimneys, well, you'll get a lot better at chimneys. Definitely some fun sections, but also some stuff you just have to make it through. P1: Pretty fun but uneventful once you get past the first roof section right at the start. P2: Really short pitch, so we linked pitch 2 and 3 with a 60m rope, however I wouldn't recommend this. My partner had to simul climb a bit as the rope ran out on P3, but the start of P2 was very easy luckily. You might be able to link pitch 1 and 2 instead, but rope drag could become a problem, especially if your first piece of P1 gear is placed immediately left before traversing right and up around the roof. P3: 5.7 Crux, most definitely R if you do the chimney. Really heady, I freaked out a bit during this lead, but eventually pulled it together and finished the pitch. I had to hang my camel back below me on the chimney sections. A previous comment recommended bringing up a #4 cam and using it to protect this section, sliding the cam up as you climb (you'd have to be pretty deep into the chimney in order for this to be effective). I thought I was doing this, but I wasn't. I was on the first chimney earlier in the pitch. So do yourself a favor and do not be tempted to place this piece too early. You will know it when you need it, because there simply won't be any other options for protection. I did eventually fit a micro cam in a small crack on the left side of the chimney, which gave me the confidence to continue, even if it may not have been the best placement in the world. The next belay spot is huge and is a great spot to take a break. P4: Hardest part was getting into the crack, and then the rest of the pitch was pretty easy and enjoyable. P5: We had a little trouble figuring out where to start once in the tunnel. Once inside the tunnel, about 20 feet to the left, you'll likely see a hold with a bunch of chalk on it which is where you want to start. Don't make the mistake of trying to go all the way left inside the tunnel, it's way too cramped. You should go straight up from the first hold and stay more or less on the right side of the rock feature for a while, and be sure to use the rear side of the tunnel to your advantage with some more chimney moves. Eventually there will be a narrow ledge where you can make your way left and out of the tunnel. Up a bit more to a medium sized belay ledge. P6: At the beginning of this pitch, getting into the hand crack on the right side was moderately difficult. I followed the hand crack up as others had indicated, and expected it to continue all the way to the top, but it does not. It ends at a large face feature which is climbable. I guess this is when I was supposed to go veer left, but I continued straight up the face, which is very doable, with some halfway decent holds, but little opportunity for protection. If you do go straight up the face, it will be pretty clear once you've gotten to the top, it will be flat with a few big boulders ahead. Also, be aware, if you go straight up, it will be almost impossible to hear your climbing partner(s) from the belay. This led to some unnecessary stress of both sides not knowing what was going on for quite some time. If you do the straight up option like we did, you'll have to scramble over the big boulders and up a small ravine to the left, and then up and over the left wall to get to the main gully. On the way down, make sure you follow the cairns, don't make your own way. There was one rappel that we had to do, for which there were slings and rap rings. A 60m rope was the exact length of the rappel. Feb 7, 2016

Justin Streit Las Vegas, NV

[Hide Comment] Micah's beta for the bolted face variation is spot on. Plenty of bolts, just spaced out and hard to see. I thought this variation was great, and since no one else seems to like the standard P3, I highly recommend this variation. Just keep looking left when in doubt. Definitely a good alternative. Feb 14, 2016

Climb To Safety california

[Hide Comment] You climb through a tunnel, what else is there to say? Feb 29, 2016

Chris D the couch

[Hide Comment] I read all the comments here and kind of poo-pooed all the comments about the third pitch. Don't. It's possible I didn't find all the gear, but midway through that pitch is a section of OW where you're making a series(maybe ten or fifteen feet?) of 5.7 moves with no rests a good 20 feet above your last piece. There's a nice rail on the left side of the crack, and the temptation to lieback/shimmy up that for its duration was much stronger than my desire to get in the crack and chikenwing/grovel through that section, so maybe that would have been more secure, but it was stout for 5.7. Probably not a great lead for folks who aren't pretty cozy leading 5.8 trad with sparse gear. Forget the haters commenting here. You'd have to be some kind of rock snob to not get a kick out of the varied, featured, fun climbing on pretty much every pitch of this route. Apr 25, 2016

Arch Richardson Grand Junction   5.7

[Hide Comment] Classic! The initial traverse was the crux (for us). Wide pitches felt secure, didn't try to spit you out anywhere, and they had pro. Enjoy!! May 5, 2016

dave Hause carrboro, nc   5.6

[Hide Comment] The tunnel pitch is what makes this climb worth doing. All the climbing before and after is not memorable. Wouldn't suggest doing this route if there is a line ahead of you as you will be doing more waiting at belay stations than the climbing is worth. May 28, 2016

Sven Petersen Henderson, NV   5.7+ PG13

[Hide Comment] Did this on Aug 13, 2016. We were a bit short on water. Had 4L each and should have had 6L each. Got an early start. We knew it would be hot. The shadows and nice belay ledges were great. All the pitches went as expected, except P3. Don't underestimate the run out on P3. I moved onto the face from the OW when it got tight. The rail inside the left wall of the crack saved me. We had placed a #6 BD cam and I was 20ft above that. Could have used another, or a big bro. Had I read all the beta I'd have opted for the face variation. We placed the #6 about 4 times over the course of the climb and did not think we were over protected. P5 was fun and felt cool. Lots of places for large pro. Especially on P6. Several places for smaller aliens which was nice. Trailed my pack with a cordelette and hook which was very nice in the chimneys. We had double BD cams 1-4 Single BD cams 5,6 Single Alien .33,3/8, 1/2, 3/4 but only used the 2 smallest few small nuts. the Offsets worked nice. Gobs of runners. Aug 14, 2016

Ben L Las Vegas   5.7 R

[Hide Comment] Only made it up the 1st 3 pitches due to fading daylight - my partner didn't want to climb in the dark. In retrospect, our decision to bail was a bad one as it led to stuck rope :'( We made it to the ground though. Lesson learned - better to go up than down on this one. 1st pitch - the opening traverse is easy to protect if you are climbing with 2 ropes - just clip one before you traverse to the right, and only clip the other rope following that - you won't have a problem with rope drag then. If you have a big bro #4 you'll have an opportunity to use it on this pitch if you want - places very easily. 2nd pitch - was confused about the end as there was an anchor on a big ledge (webbing abound big boulder). I climbed on to find bolted anchors further up. 3rd pitch - scary and hard if you're new to 5.7 and/or chimneys. Definitely runout. You'll likely find yourself 20' or more above gear (multiple times) if you stay on the wide end. I used a big bro #4 to protect near the top. Was hard to place and I didn't have great faith in it - but it was better than nothing. My solid C4 #4 was too far below to make me feel good. Long sleeves and pants will lessen the hickies you might otherwise get from making out with the chimney. Edit: Nov 2019 - finally made it back intent on finishing the climb this time and did :). Felt easier and less scary with more experience.. but if you're not leading much above 7 or 8 I expect this climb will still seem super adventurous for most people. Actually glad I backed off doing the tunnel in the dark my 1st attempt a few yrs ago - would have freaked me out. Chimney felt way easier after having a few 7s under my belt. This is not a climb to push your grades up on unless you want to be scared af. 4th pitch - fun cruiser 5th pitch - Thought I'd find more pro in tunnel but I don't think there are any really secure placements at all - maybe some psychological crutches at best. Although I placed 2 tricams in side by side pockets (so really pro at 1 spot in tunnel only) I think the floor of the pockets would have just disintegrated in a fall. The whole tunnel is really no pro imo. 6th pitch - long pitch which has a couple of steep moments. The climb is definitely not over at this point. I don't understand people dissing this climb in more recent comments. It has everything! Boulder problem off the deck, face climbing, steep climbing, chimney, tunnel (so unique and cool) - it's pure adventure! Everyone on the climb was loving it! By far the most interesting climb I've ever done at this point. Sep 13, 2016

Kevin Downie

[Hide Comment] We very much enjoyed this climb. There was 4 of us in a party, 2 climbed the pitch 3 chimney and 2 climbed the 5.8 bolted variation. I think the 5.8 bolted variation is the way to go, I am a wimpy 5.8 leader and I didn't think the run outs on this pitch were too bad. We did not move back into the chimney for pitch 4, instead we continued up on bolts and gear to the base of the tunnel. Feb 27, 2017

matt matera

[Hide Comment] So here are my two cents: on pitch two, I stopped at a slung boulder on the right but you should proceed up into the chimney another thirty feet and belay at a two bolt anchor inside the chimney. The slung boulder is below two chimneys: the left chimney is tunnel vision the right is not. Second, on the last pitch after the tunnel, you can go straight up to the top or about halfway up traverse left on easy ground and belay at a large boulder on a perch. The guide book offers both options. If you go left, then it is easy to access the gully behind the boulder by climbing up about 15 feet (no rope needed) and back into the gully for the descent. Apr 4, 2017

Billy Shin Inglewood, ca

[Hide Comment] My 2 cents: P1, if you place gear even with long sling, before you do the traverse, your rope drag probably won't let you go past the big ledge. Which is actually fine, since that's about 2/3 way up. I easily got to the bolts on end of P2 from there, with maybe 25m left on my 60m rope and it was pretty chill in difficulty. P5 in the tunnel good luck, all the good holds are on the wall behind you. You can use a couple of tricams, but there will be a run out of at least 15-25 ft. P6, the traverse is raelly right before the very last steep section. The traverse is I would say below 5.0 if it was on ground level... but the exposure... It does save you hiking down. Bolts are still there at end of p2 as of 5/1/2017 May 2, 2017

walmongr Gilbert AZ   5.7 PG13

[Hide Comment] not a very exciting route tunnel was kinda cool... Best part is to roshambo for the 3rd and watch your partner cry when he looses!!! Not sure why this is such a classic their is much better at this grade in R.R. Sep 23, 2017

Bill M Berkeley, CA   5.7

[Hide Comment] This was a great climb. We climbed the variation start since the regular one had a team on it and the face variation on p3 because some ASSHOLE took a dump right at the belay station. Not cool, but, I was glad to climb the face because it was super fun and quite exposed! The tunnel through was awesome. Didn't feel like you needed any pro but i placed one nut about half way to protect the 2nd. Use both walls. It was easy but thoughtful climbing the whole way. Look around you because there are holds everywhere. We went left before the last steep section and the downclimb was really well marked with cairns. Mar 19, 2018

FourT6and2 ...

[Hide Comment] Climbed this one the other day. I really enjoyed it! Got to the parking lot about 12:30 in the afternoon on a Saturday and nobody was on the wall except a group to our right on another route, so we weren't rushed or anything. Got back to the car at about 7:30. I'm a sport climber, so pretty novice at trad but the climb itself was easy, albeit thoughtful. Holds are indeed everywhere if you look for 'em. But this route was just so varied and interesting to me. Lots of different kinds of climbing packed into one route. The tunnel was so cool. The hand traverse at the start was fun and not at all as freaky as some make it out to be. Chimneys, face climbing, a small crack or two, even some foot jams. Loved it all. I think we went off route at the very top and continued up and to the right, over the small dome with nipples on it, to top out just below a larger headwall. We couldn't figure out how to reach the gully to get down but my partner found it by dropping underneath a fallen boulder/flake that was wedged between two larger ones, into a small cave-like opening and then out into the gulley where we found a cairn and followed them down. I suspect we should have gone left below the top dome instead. But I guess we added about 30-40 feet of climbing in at the top to make it an even 800-foot route. Overall, this was a great climb. And I would definitely do it again. I think you can also make a course change to link over to climb 2 or 4 in some places. Like instead of going up and left in the tunnel, you might be able to go out onto the face of that part of the wall or even up the center of the tunnel and back out onto the route over on the right. Might be interesting. Apr 9, 2018

Tim Sloane North Las Vegas, NV

[Hide Comment] Trying to figure out why the bolts at P2 were put where they are (way above a nice comfy ledge with lots of natural pro). May 15, 2018

Nick Baker Salt Lake City, UT   5.7+ PG13

[Hide Comment] Fun route!. Def pg13 in nature with some fairly significant run-outs on pitch 3 and smaller ones elsewhere. Start is also risky for your ankles. Rr guidebook calls this route 5.7+ which is correct imo. Jun 2, 2018

Max Kahn   5.7

[Hide Comment] Solid fun climbing, face holds on the first pitch are suspect, I would stay in the crack as a piece broke on me. The tunnel was easy and interesting and protected well with gear in pockets behind you (tricams!). Cool top out and relatively straightforward descent. Great moderate route, it's below my grade but I never thought it felt sketchy or deserving of a danger rating. Jun 3, 2018

Ashort Las Vegas, NV

[Hide Comment] Route goes into shade around noon in summer. Belays are all shaded and nice and cool. Agree about bolted anchor on P2, I built anchor below, route had all gear anchors. I can definitely see how this route might be spooky for some 5.7-5.8 leaders. Jun 26, 2018

Seth Hogan Frisco, Co   5.7

[Hide Comment] Its not the quality of movement on this route that makes it good, it is simply the sense of adventure on this route. The tunnel pitch is pretty damn unique. Dec 25, 2018

Tyler M Northern AZ

[Hide Comment] Trip up Tunnel Vision - youtube.com/watch?v=0An8pQR… Jan 29, 2019

KrisG Red Rock, NV

[Hide Comment] Did this route 15-June. Started the climb at about 1-2pm for full shade on the entire route. We had the route to ourselves as a slow party of 3 with a multi-pitch first-timer friend in tow. What a great, easy adventurous route! Route-finding was fairly straight-forward. We did the 5.8 face variation to pitches 3 and 4 which added some open face exposure to a chimney dense climb. As others have mentioned the bolts are a little hard to spot until you're on them, but it's all there. Some more beta on this below. The tunnel pitch was just cool (figuratively and literally), unique, thoughtful, and not that hard. Not much pro in it though and you have to work for what is there. I got two pieces in with long runners. My advice: don't waste too much time futzing around with it, just climb through. The perfect hand-crack on the left wall/corner after exiting the tunnel is excellent as well. We brought a standard double rack and a #4 which was useful in a couple spots, but probably not mandatory if doing the pitch 3/4 face variation. 5.8 face variation: Essentially you climb out left from the two-bolt anchor of the second pitch and follow bolts (4-5 total) and cracks up to a two-bolt anchor. Then another pitch of bolts (3-4 total) and crack up to the entrance to the cave/tunnel pitch. Note: there is a two bolt anchor about 2/3 up the second face pitch, ignore it and keep climbing up another 40ft to the cave/tunnel entrance. Jun 16, 2019

Gregory Cooper Phoenix, AZ 5.7

[Hide Comment] Did this route July 4th as a day trip from Phoenix. I think the temps were in the high 80s but the route was in the shade 90% of the climb so it was very comfortable. All the belays are in shade, even in the morning. We arrived at the parking lot @630am and left @3pm. We had to stop and rest after the decent because once in the sun my climbing partner had trouble regulating body temp. All in all things went well though. Just some notes: We didn't quite get the approach beta correct and made it harder on ourselves. As you head done the gravel path you'll come across the a little brown fiberglass sign, if come across this you've gone too far. Backtrack about 50 yards and you'll see two junipers and a trail going down. Follow that as it contours the landscape and makes it much easier. The first pitch traverse isn't bad at all. You'll be tempted to place gear on it, but don't. You have nice hands and just need to look for really good feet, they are there. Then you can protect it. Communication was hard on this pitch. The echoes jumbled everything up and neither my partner or me could understand what each other was saying. no problems on other pitches. Second pitch, there are still bolts on the left side at the top. Third Pitch, run out not much gear placements. I ended up only placing one piece anyways. Kept it out of the OW. It's heady but the hold are there. Just keep going. If your a solid 5.7 leader you'll be fine. 4th pitch. don't confuse the first cave with the cave pitch. you'll know when you get to the cave, it's huge. 5th pitch. Once you get to the cave it's a good idea for your belayer to move in with you(helps with rope drag, you're basically on terra firma ). look for the chalk, it's on the much easier way to get up. Not really any gear until you pop out. place some to keep the rope out of the crack or else you'll get it caught. Careful of the holds though they are pretty greasy. 6th, not much to say, like gym climbing really. Decent, lots of cairns to mark the way down. the trail then heads left to follow the base. however there are multiple trails that turn into a maze. it took us a while to find the right path back to the base of the climb to retrieve our packs. Overall I personally enjoyed this route. It's perfect for summer time. It was completely in the shade by 2pm I believe. And again it was 90% in the shade even in the morning. AND HOLY CRAP! I've never climbed during an earthquake before! The whole mountain shook back and forth like we were on top of a tall building on a windy day. Gear - Single rack .3 to BD #4 Jul 5, 2019

Alex Fisher Portland, OR

[Hide Comment] There isn't much to add that hasn't already been said, but figured I'd add a few comments that might be useful to others. There are multiple options for arriving at the mouth of the tunnel -- we opted for the 5.8 chimney of Stilger's Wild Ride as a variation to the standard 5.7 chimney listed here. Personally, this 210' pitch may have been my favorite one of the climb -- the pro can be sparse, but the chimney offers a sense of security that makes the 25' run-outs seem fine. It was nice to have several long runners to extend pro on this pitch. Once you arrive at the tunnel, definitely move the belay inside. We found no need for any physical anchor once securely inside. The tunnel pitch can be either really easy or a bit tricky. If it feels too hard, remember to look behind you for additional holds. The pro is certainly there. I found a red/pink tricam to work decently well in some of the pods on the backside of the tunnel. Make sure to veer hard left -- avoid the temptation to go directly up into the light shining through the opening. Upon exiting the tunnel, we built a belay in the right crack system. We then followed this crack all the way to the summit, pulling a few easy roof moves on good jams and jugs. However, instead of cutting hard left when the crack ran out per guide book topo, we went straight up the run-out thin face and belayed off the summit block. At least by RR standards, the run-out slab variation probably warrants a 5.8/8+ rating. Super fun climb, and relatively low commitment. The easy approach and descent make this a good climb if you only have half a day. Oct 7, 2019

Angus Blacklaw San Diego, CA

[Hide Comment] As there isn't yet a report from 2020: Pitch 2: bolts are still at the top of pitch 2 as of Oct. As others have mentioned (but is worth repeating) rope management here is key and snags are easy from this semi-hanging belay. Pitch 6: As you head up from belay towards the large overhanging crack (the farthest most you see overhead) you can either take a left or right crack. Left was wide and harder to protect while the right was more enjoyable and offered better placements and good jamming. Walk-off: unrope on top of the lower dome and proceed down some chimneys to a large ledge. Hang right and follow cairns to find the trail. Oct 19, 2020

Josh Janes

[Hide Comment] This hanging belay should be chopped. I wonder if it was even original (we should ask Joe)? Regardless, belaying there makes no sense at all. Belay 40' below the bolts, just before entering this section of the chimney, on a ledge out right of the main crack system. This ledge usually has slings and rap ring around a pillar (though in 2020 they are not present). You can do one long pitch from the ground to this point or break it up into two shorter ones. For either your second or third pitch (depending on how you pitch out the beginning of the climb), enter into the bottom of the chimney, climb up past the hanging belay, and continue to the same good ledge where the hanging belay pitch normally ends. This makes that pitch 40' longer, but eliminates a totally stupid hanging belay. Oct 19, 2020

Max Shaffer Reno, NV

[Hide Comment] This is an adventure climb. That means challenging route finding, poor gear placement and less than perfect rock. The moderate grade doesn't necessarily reflect the difficulty of the climb. Having done this route twice now, I probably won't do it again. Olive Oil is much more fun. Oct 19, 2020

Mark Thomas Broomfield, CO   5.6

[Hide Comment] P3 is NOT R. You are VERY plugged in with no real fall consequence early. When falling becomes bad, there is gear in the crack that appears on your left. Never found the 5.7 lieback, but when the wide developed a pronounced edge, that made it MUCH easier... about 5.4. Overall this felt about 5.5 to me. 5.6 could apply but is generous. Chimney felt more like a cl. 4 slab scramble to me. If you don't like the runout, you can always walk in deeper and climb out as a proper squeeze chimney where you both have gear and can be plugged in. Dec 2, 2020

David Dentry Morrison, CO

[Hide Comment] I kind of hated this route... The climbing isn't particularly interesting, it's mostly groveling in awkward chimneys in strange positions. The namesake tunnel isn't exciting, either, it's just pulling yourself through a dusty squeeze. Add in the long walk in, and a really long walk out with lots of down-climbing in the gully, and it felt like a waste or time. It's a little unique and an adventure, but not really a good climb, in my opinion. Feb 5, 2021

Connor Yartz

[Hide Comment] Highly recommend the pitch 3 variation, had some of the best movement on the route. Protected by a single bolt on the face and solid gear until you merge with the end of the chimney. For the walk-off scramble over ramp behind the ledge and follow the cairns down, no need to rap. May 9, 2021

Michael Smalley Santa Clarita, CA   5.7 R

[Hide Comment] Had the route to ourselves on 5/8/2021 with only one other party on Purblind with shade all the way up and most of the way down. This is absolutely a route deserving of its classic status. The pitch three variation up the slab was great fun, joining back with the chimney just before it goes out of sight of the bolted anchor. The fifth pitch felt comfortable on lead until the slick traverse to the hand crack at the exit of the tunnel, then it got serious. A fall there would would hurt for leader and follower. Bring your stemming game. It was the mental crux for me. There seem to be a few options for the final pitch. I got to the big ledge and traversed left, following the path of least resistance across the slab, to a massive belay ledge you can park a truck on. While the pitch three variation had the best movement, the open air traverse at the very end was, for me, the best moment of the entire climb. After being in chimneys for basically the entirety of the climb, having the rock just drop away to the expanse of Red Rock, with the Strip in the background was just incredible. It's 4th class climbing but exposed at times, so protect your follower. The descent is well marked and comfortably safe. No need to rap, in my opinion. May 10, 2021

Nick Lee Los Angeles, CA

[Hide Comment] climb it on september 5, 2021, temp likely 85-90, little wind, in the shade after the first pitch, got tired out at the end. it was a hot long day. the only benefit is there is only one party ahead of us which we did not see them after the first pitch and did not hear them after the 5th pitch. my wife inadvertently took the cordelette on top of pitch one out thinking it was our's. after getting mad at her we left the cordetlett at the bottom of the route hoping another nice person would re establish it some where on the route. But the first belay have plenty of crack for gear anchors. pitch 1: I find the protection hard to place on the traverse and think it may not have prevent a ground fall given the traverse is not that high given the rope stretch and slack in the system. my wife follow struggled due to her upper body strength issues. pitch 2: easy and fun pitch 3: no protection during the squeeze chimney. I found small tunnel that able to thread a draw thru via girth hitch. the BD #4 not able to use until top of that pitch. it was scary runout. a fall would be bad. all my reading in prepare for this route did not apply. if one really want to protect the squeeze chimney will, they need at least some BD #5, 6 or higher. it's wise to know that there are some non human or super human out there that enter stuff on this site randomly and may not apply to mortal like me or you. pitch 4: not remember well but I think there is a little roof to pass off the belay pitch 5: the tunnel: again no protection. I found one on the ledge corner before the traverse 30 foot up, despite the picture on mountain project showing a few pieces in the tunnel. so this again is a free solo pitch. once you on the ledge its pretty secure. Other super human may have a different experience. pitch 6: we stop on top of a butte as shown on my gearloop topo. we did not do the final 20 feet of climbing, which is optional. the descent: we saw the caines in the gully and head down there. there are many caines and we did not do any rappels. we just traverse to the other side of the gully and find options down. it seems long because we were tired, hot and in our climbing shoes because we forgot to bring up our approach shoe. our toes were squashed. my wife and I enjoy this route more then crimson chrysalis because we are older and slower and there is big ledges for belay that we can relax between pitches and take some pictures. Sep 8, 2021

William Thiry Las Vegas   5.8

[Hide Comment] This is truly a classic must-do rockaineering adventure climb that is full of character and fun / interesting climbing with a couple of serious sections. There is a lot of chimney climbing so wearing a backpack is not recommended. The traverse to start the first pitch is exciting and poorly protected - so be ready for it. To be honest, it may be best to not plan on gear because it probably won't do anything more than cause rope drag. The feet and hands here are not great but just good enough to keep the climbing at 5.7. Once you execute the exit mantle move you'll feel much better, but more 5.7 climbing awaits on this pitch. Pitch 3 is the crux of the climb with three options. You can squeeze deep in the chimney and feel pretty secure (not recommended for large people). You can stem / half-chimney the first 30 feet on the outside of the chimney (my preference, easier than it looks, not much for protection). Or you can step left, clip a bolt, and dance up 5.7 trad terrain to rejoin the normal line 40 feet up. A bomber #1 cam protects the exit moves from the squeeze chimney, where you then find yourself on a very steep slab with scant protection options and very few secure footholds or handholds. This, in my opinion, is the crux of the climb that commands all of your wits and feels like a nervous 5.8. Cramming half your body into the wide crack on the right may help somewhat. Oct 17, 2021

First Track Jack Golden, CO   5.7+

[Hide Comment] 11/2/21: Only party on route. 30 minute easy approach to base. I wouldn't call if one of the best 5.7s in RR, but a true adventure. The chimneys are physical, leave your pack behind. The route is well protected and the tunnel is not long and has some spots for pro if you look. I would call pitch 3 - 5.7 +. There is no need to rappel on descent, it is a well cairned Class 3 gully all the way to the main trail. Bring big cams #4-5. Nov 4, 2021

Benton Hodges Jackson, WY

[Hide Comment] Placing a piece high in the right side of the gully after exiting the tunnel will help mitigate the rope from getting sucked in to a crack on the left side when continuing up to the next belay ledge. Mar 28, 2022

Harris Kashtan   5.7+

[Hide Comment] Found the chimney on pitch 3 to be a bit harder than expected and challenging to protect at times. Wouldn't recommend this to a new 5.7 leader. The tunnel through pitch was very cool and unique. Would recommend this climb if comfortable at the grade/chimney technique. May 8, 2022

Barnaby Calman London

[Hide Comment] The final pitch is a bugger if you get your rope management wrong Oct 22, 2022

Bry an LVNV

[Hide Comment] Expect to build your own anchors except the one fixed pitch as described. Nov 13, 2022

Alex Harshman Brooklyn Park, MN

[Hide Comment] For anyone that has an overstoked leader on P4 we found a slight variation. If you climb passed the tunnel because of the fun easy look slab, you can build a belay on a ledge/alcove above the tunnel pitch. Instead of down climbing you can continue up the pillar and climb left through another horizontal tunnel to link back up with pitch 6 of tunnel vision. The left cross over comes just before a small roof/bulge when following the off width crack described in stiglars wild ride and puts you midway up P6 of tunnel vision. Maybe 5.6 climbing nothing harder than what you climbed to get here in the first place. Feb 13, 2023

Francois Cote Fredericton, NB

[Hide Comment] People seem to like to compare this route and Group Therapy. I climbed both in the same day and here's my thoughts. I liked Tunnel Vision slightly more. There are no bad pitches on this route, all the climbing was good. The p3 chimney is great (perhaps a bit spicy) and the tunnel is pretty unique and fun. All other pitches are good but a bit more forgettable. In comparison, I liked the roof pitch of Group Therapy more than any pitch on TV, but GT also has some pitches which were less fun than any pitch on TV, and for me that makes TV the overall winner. That being said, go climb both and have fun! Mar 21, 2023

Ben Bilbrough Portland, OR   5.7

[Hide Comment] Tunnel pitch video. youtu.be/P9aHvLS4KAc Mar 29, 2023

K C NC

[Hide Comment] Approximate start location is 36.16902, -115.48933. #4 can be placed on nearly every pitched, and useful in many of the gear belays. Sep 10, 2023

Ryan DeLena Sudbury MA / Lyndon VT   5.7+ PG13

[Hide Comment] youtu.be/94i_sn09J2o?si=d2D… A video I made about this route. Shows the approach, original start, tunnel and descent. Dec 22, 2023

Redacted Redactberg "a world travella"

[Hide Comment] Great climb. Ignore the hate. If you don't like chimneys (possibly because ur bad at them), then yeah, you won't like this climb and think it's "grovelly" or "awkward," but then what are you doing on a climb called "tunnel vision" in the first place? Jan 26, 2024

Smith Rock Seattle, WA

[Hide Comment] The 5.9 start may be 5.9 once you have it dialed, onsighting it was full value. I might call it 10.- May 3, 2024

Oliver Las Vegas, NV

[Hide Comment] Tunnel Vision - Interactive 360° - go.ibex.fit/mp Oct 18, 2024

Simon Leigh SF, CA

[Hide Comment] Couple of comments from people saying they wouldn't mind something bigger than a #6. Can anyone confirm that bringing up a 7 or 8 up there? Would either help reduce the runout factor? Nov 8, 2024

-Jeremy Nelson Kamas, UT   5.7+

[Hide Comment] Climbed this recently with nothing bigger than a #4 BD. After the second pitch went left onto face to avoid the chimney thrash since I had already did that once in a lifetime. The bolt line wanders left and there are some gear placements in between. Keep climbing to a 2-bolt belay. 5.8 ish, watch for rope drag. another short 30 feet beyond gain access to the tunnel pitch. Have fun! Nov 10, 2024

Matt Johnsøn Clifton Park, NY   5.8 R

[Hide Comment] Climbed it this past weekend. I climbed the chimney up pitch 3 and and thought it was really hard and painful Dec 3, 2024