George Bell Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] We did this route in one long (~160') pitch to a ledge and then a shorter pitch up the chimney/flared slot (handcrack?). The first pitch has lots of 5.9/10- moves and you need to meter out the pro carefully to do it as one long pitch. However this way you do not have to do a hanging belay. The second pitch is much easier, and although it looks to be flared weirdness from the ground is nothing to worry about. Mar 25, 2004

Larry DeAngelo Las Vegas, NV

[Hide Comment] On the beginning of the second pitch, you can also traverse to the right before the initial hand jam. A thin crack (about 5.9) leads up the right right side of the small roof. Jun 24, 2005

Jeremy Boulder, CO   5.10b

[Hide Comment] Both cruxes felt harder to me too. The second crux was pulling out of the traverse for me. The guidebook made it look like the crux was the traverse. Pulling out of it was funky. Jul 3, 2006

Danny Inman Arvada   5.10b

[Hide Comment] Awesome route. did it as one 70-m pitch to base of chimney section, then one 20-m pitch to the top of the block. Rapping off we got our rope hoplessly stuck on Our Father-watch out for the velcro-like nature of the face. Oct 10, 2006

Anthony Stout Albuquerque, NM

[Hide Comment] Agreed on the cruxes, felt harder than 5.10a. I did not see a bolted belay as described in the description (except for at the top, where you rap). Nice route thought. Did in two pitches as described in other posts. Dec 7, 2006

Aaron S

[Hide Comment] We did this with a short first pitch with a nice ledge to the left and then a longer pitch to the top. I did not see any spot that would be remotely comfortable to belay from after that early ledge. The first pitch felt like standard 10a to me but pulling out of the roof on the second was pretty tough. May 12, 2007

Thomas Schmid   5.10c

[Hide Comment] We did this route in two pitches. The first pitch is clearly harder than 10a. The crux was pulling over the roof after the traverse. At the second pitch, just continue on in the chimney and get over the block at the top onto the nice ledge behind it. You can only see two stripped bolts while in the chimney, but don't worry. The proper anchor is around the corner and you can't see it unless you are on the other side. That initially freaked me out a little :) Mar 3, 2008

Ben Folsom

[Hide Comment] Yeah, the stripped bolts at the top of the route freaked me out a little too, as I didn't see the nice anchor for a minute. Did a 70 meter pitch to the base of the chimney, and a very short second pitch to the top of the pillar. Great route, nice cracks. Other than the top anchor (at the top of Our Father), I do not remember any other fixed gear on the route. Oct 20, 2008

Mark Overdevest Salt Lake City, UT

[Hide Comment] For me also the crux was just after the traverse. Climbing was so fun I got to the end of the 60 and had to downclimb a bit on the face to backclean for a hanging belay (we brought doubles). Never found anchors. 2nd pitch was shorter through the chimney up and right to Our Father anchors. Save some gear or bring trips in hands and set up a belay on pitch 1 when you find a good stance. Great climb, easy pro. Apr 8, 2009

Jon OBrien Nevada   5.10a

[Hide Comment] I've done my share of climbing:IMHO- BEST route I've ever done!! Total sandbag but for nostalgia let's keep calling it 10a! Head's up: you can lead the money pitch of 'Our Father' on the way down! ;-) Apr 21, 2009

scalparm Vienna, Austria

[Hide Comment] This climb definitely feels harder than 10a! I did Amber(10c) which has the same start and goes left at the hand crack. Wholesome Fullback felt MUCH harder by comparison. Though I think I did it a harder way. The crux was right after the traverse. I descended with two 60m's and it took two rap stations of the three to get to the ground. Maybe to 70's would get you there in one go, though I doubt it. Nov 15, 2009

Top Rope Hero Was Estes Park, now homeless   5.10c

[Hide Comment] Strong 5.9 climbers looking to push their game beware: This is no gimme 5.10. I reckon the grunt-fest move into the crack just after the traverse right--though certainly well protected--is as hard as passing the bulge on P2 of Triassic sands (which, to be fair, was itself downgraded to 10b in the Handren guide). And this comes AFTER the thin crack-O-doom right off the ground that will have you promising God to give up your every vice. Still, take that first pitch, young leader, and join the club. Wholesome Fullback is a grand, if at times awkward, line. Apr 1, 2010

mousebob   5.10b/c

[Hide Comment] Great route, but beware - I would say it is much harder than .10a. Both cruxes felt harder than Triassic Sands to me. Bring small gear for the first crux. Be sure not to miss the toprope of Our Father on the way down! Mar 30, 2011

Patrick Mulligan Reno, NV

[Hide Comment] I also did this route in two pitches. IMHO you would loose out on a completely classic long pitch at the grade if you split the first section into two pitches and you don't gain much benefit. However, even with several long slings I had significant rope drag pulling up past the bulge post traverse. I was pulling up 2-3 feet of slack at a time then making the next move. Also, after leading the first long pitch, my climbing partner who had done the route before commented that he had safely led the first pitch through the thin flake to the right of the handcrack. He said that the flake was consistent with the grade, well protected with small offsets, and saved him the rope drag that I faced pulling over the bulge. Nov 30, 2011

Patrick Mulligan Reno, NV

[Hide Comment] Just redid the route (was going to climb Amber but landed behind a party of three) this weekend. We broke it into three pitches and I have to say that the climb was very pleasant that way. The upper pitch retains its punch, but at least you're not fighting terrible rope drag through the crux. Oct 1, 2012

-robin-   5.10a

[Hide Comment] Did with one 70 to the top, belayed from the top of the pillar from a gear anchor in the crack, best way to do it, maybe an extra #2 and 3 to make ya feel nice and fuzzy inside, but not quite runout without them. great route. Nov 30, 2012

Patrick Callery

[Hide Comment] This is the best single pitch of climbing I've done in Red Rocks. The splitter hands below the traverse is incredible, just too short. We ran a single pitch to the good ledge just below the chimney, seemed closer to 180'. Rope drag was not too bad. Took a full double rack with extra #1, 2, 3 and do not regret carrying it all. We used a #4 on the 2nd pitch, but not necessary if you don't mind running it out on easy offwidth. Apr 20, 2013

Royal In my van!   5.10d

[Hide Comment] This thing is so not 10a! I call major sandbag. the crux is short, but it's a hard SOB. I can climb 10a and I was nowhere near sending the crux. It's at least 10c/d. The first pitch seems like honest to god 10a. I liked the first pitch best. Jun 7, 2013

Eugene Kwan Cambridge, MA

[Hide Comment] Amazing route that has a bit of everything. Starts as tips to Exasperator-Crack-style fingers (crux #1), then Indian-Creek-style hands, a Gunks-style traverse, a weird Red Rocks roof-with-a-crack (crux #2), and cruiser 5.8 crack to the alcove. In Squamish, this pitch would be mid 5.10, unlike many of the other routes in the area. Rappel Our Father with one 60. On the second rappel, look for a rap station on a ledge slightly to the right at two shiny bolts. Our ropes got stuck on this rappel inside a crack and I had to lead back up the scary second pitch of Our Father. However, because we started from the right hand side, I clipped three bolts before heading up the corner and it wasn't too bad. This is no harder than the first pitch of The Gobbler, just a bit more run out. In other sandbagged places, this pitch would be considered 5.9 and certainly not R. Wholesome Fullback itself is quite well protected if you bring a big enough rack. If you want to protect every move, I would recommend doubles to 1", 3 x #2 gold camalots, 2 x #3 blue camalots, and one #4, with a good selection of microcams for the beginning. Nov 27, 2015

yann gauthier val david

[Hide Comment] there is no bolt after the traverse(bolted belay) you have to go all the way to the top if you want a bolted belay on top of our father. We did one small pitch to the bolted belay of Amber (Nice ledge) and when back on the route for one long pitch to the top of our father. Nice route , crux is after the traverse trying to go back on the vertical cack. Nov 29, 2015

Aaron Moses Richmond, Va

[Hide Comment] A 70m rope wouldn't get me to the bolts on our father, but got me to a point that I could wedge into the chimney rather than have to build an anchor. From there, it was just a short scramble to the anchors. Feb 16, 2016

Justin Streit Las Vegas, NV

[Hide Comment] I was half expecting a bolted anchor at the top of the long first pitch but never got it. So we built a gear anchor on a ledge before the short wide final pitch. Save some bigger pieces for the belay here. I think we had five #2's and 2 #3's and I used it all up. It was awesome to do the whole beginning as one pitch, but I would also recommend using the anchors out left on Amber and splitting up the cruxes on the long first pitch. Then you could go all the way to the top of the route in one long second pitch. And the rope drag shouldn't be any worse I wouldn't think. Definitely an awesome route. Mar 2, 2016

The Blueprint Part Dank FEMA Region VIII   5.9+

[Hide Comment] You can't easily see the bolted anchor atop P1. It's located on a small pedestal up and left of the ledge at the base of the handcrack (the one prior to the p2 traverse) May 7, 2016

Al Pino Boulder

[Hide Comment] Kind of surprised this gets a more difficult rating than Amber. Amber is a harder line, without a doubt. This would be a 5.8+ or 5.9 in Eldo Mar 30, 2017

Mei pronounced as May Bay Area, but not in SF

[Hide Comment] I risk stating the unncecessary since you are here reading MP, but I just wanted to point out in capitalized letters that the Handren guidebook made a mistake recommending a single rack with triple red to blue cams to lead a linked 180' first pitch. Based that recommendation, I carried a single rack to red (my perfect size) plus 2 gold and 3 blue. I was surprised to see that when turning the roof, it's the finger sizes that were needed to protect the crux there, which I had none by then. Did have to run way out, and was glad to have saved a gold and a blue to build a bombproof anchor anchor to belay my second at the end of my 60m rope as a chimney wedge belay may not pass as the safest option. I gave Handren a silent curse for the misinformation. 60m rope can rappel Our Father without any problem. The moves off the ground climbing the thin face and seam felt harder than 10a, but I'm short. Nov 10, 2017

Daniel Evans Phoenix, AZ   5.10b

[Hide Comment] The bolted anchors are hard to see mid-lead if you don't know where to look and are located on the top of the right facing corner just before the traverse section (~10 ft left of the initial P2 hand crack).This would be a 10a in Joshua Tree, so probably fair at the 5.10b/c range for the area. I linked both the crux pitches by accident because I couldn't find the anchors and it was gnarly! Just bring triples/quads of 1-2 size pieces if you do this as the crack is pretty consistent in those sizes. Bring finger sized pieces for the second crux after the traverse (.3 - .75). In hindsight, I think this is the best way to do the climb. My recommendation: P1: Link P1 & 2 crux sections (Just use a double length runner to protect the traverse--I didn't have any rope drag doing it this way). Build a hanging belay after the second crux on nuts and finger sized pieces from 0.2 - 0.75. Full value pitch when done this way! (5.10) P2: Climb a really fun splitter 5.8 hand crack (1-2") past a short wide section with good face holds out right (no offwidth necessary) to surmount a false summit/large ledge. Follow the ledge back into an easy squeeze chimney. Shimmy your way to the opposite side of the chimney and belay off a bolted anchor on the other side for Our Father. Twin 70 m ropes will get you to the ground from here. Note: As of 1/5/18, the only bolted anchors on this route are at the top of pitch 1 and those for Our Father. Do not expect any other bolted belay. Jan 11, 2018

carla rosa CA

[Hide Comment] I linked up through to the base of the wide section on a nice ledge, about 180 feet, and built a belay with a .5, #1, and #2 camelots. Definitely thought this was easier than the crux on Triassic Sands. I also enjoy finger cracks more than bouldery sequences.. YMMV Good protection throughout. If you extend mindfully you won't have drag. Apr 16, 2018

Robert Shortt San Francisco, CA   5.10b

[Hide Comment] Crux moves after the roof traverse aren't that awkward, they just require some thought and positioning before you go. The locks are super solid. Bolted anchor only beta: Stop at P1 anchor at 50' and mega-pitch P2 as 5.9 hands, roof traverse, crux, more hands, and finally chimney to anchor. 200+' this way, rope drag wasn't great but not terrible either. Extend those pieces! Oct 17, 2018

Magnifique

[Hide Comment] 70m ropes will get you down from the Our Father anchors in one rap. It's close though, so if you've chopped a few feet off of your 70s I wouldn't recommend it. Nov 28, 2019

Jack Taylor Issaquah, WA

[Hide Comment] Type 1 fun! We did 2 raps with a single Mammut 80m and scrambled off climbers right instead of doing junky looking last rap. Make sure to blast a lap on ‘Our Father’ on the way down! It’s like a creek 5.9 hands+layback! Dec 22, 2019

Andy Bennett Scarizona

[Hide Comment] With an 80m, this line can be done as one single pitch with surprisingly little drag; thoughtful runner work is mandatory, of course. Next time I'd bring triples of 0.75-#3 camalot for the link. Oct 21, 2020

Vlad Alexandrov Woodinville, WA   5.10a

[Hide Comment] Second crux felt quite a bit easier to me than the crux of Triassic Sands. It's slightly awkward but the moves themselves are relatively straightforward - you can place absolutely bomber gear above your head from decent stances and near-perfect finger locks (pretty much leading the second crux on top-rope). If anything, the first crux felt harder to me - very thin and technical. If you split it into 3 pitches, you don't need anything beyond a double rack to BD #3, you can certainly plug in more #1s into the thin hands splitter before the traverse but the gear there is perfect so it's easy enough to just backclean. Nov 2, 2020

Serge S Seattle, WA

[Hide Comment] Used nothing larger than #2. Did use 3-4 #1, 4-5 #2, and 2 each 0.1-0.2 for the start. The "crux" takes 0.3-0.4. Nov 3, 2020

JJ W W Seattle

[Hide Comment] Missed the P2 anchors. Follower did not find the anchors so still not sure how we missed it. We rapped 3 times with 70 on all bolted anchors. On the 2nd rap you'll see a tree to the climbers left - stick to the right side and you'll see a bolted rap station around the same height Mar 30, 2021

Bryan K Las Vegas, NV   5.10b

[Hide Comment] Absolute classic route and some of the best crack climbing I've done anywhere. I was a bit nervous about how hard the 2nd pitch was gonna be based on how variable people say the grade is for it, but I did not think it was any harder than 10b. I am no crack master by any means and I thought the crux was very straight forward as some others have said. There are 3 fixed cams in the crux (0.1/0.2 X4 offset, yellow metolius, and a 0.4 C4) that are all in good condition but are really in there. The first pitch up to Amber's bolted anchor is also a great lead for breaking in to 10a on gear. It looks intimidating, but it climbs much easier than it looks from the ground. The crack eats microcams and stoppers and you get really great stances to place them. The rest of that pitch is maybe 5.7 to the bolted anchor once you pass the crux down low. May 29, 2021

Mike Rowley Traveling

[Hide Comment] Wow, phenomenal route! Great rock quality, splitter cracks, great gear... a must do route. 10a seemed pretty accurate as far as the grade goes. Link P1 and 2 for a fantastic, long, pitch of quality climbing. This lands you on a spacious ledge just before the crack gets wide, and skips any uncomfortable hanging belays. Alternatively, if your partner is able to climb the initial few moves up 10ft to the ledge before the P1 crux you can climb this whole route in 1 giant pitch with a 70m rope. Runner gear appropriately and theres almost no drag. A 70m rope makes all raps down Our Father. Jan 31, 2022

Harris Kashtan   5.10b

[Hide Comment] Great crack climb that has two definitive cruxes, one low and one gaining the upper crack after the traverse, both protect well. 10b for both seems appropriate, though the upper one is definitely more awkward. Easily goes in 2 pitches with a 60m, which can be used to rappel and TR Our Father. On the second rappel down Our Father, the rap station around the tree has been removed, but there is a bolted rap station climber's right just around the corner at the same level. One of the few true crack climbs in Red Rocks. May 27, 2023

James C Seattle, WA

[Hide Comment] Just like the Valley. Easy squeezy chimney at the end is icing on the cake. Do this route! Easy to tack on at the end of the day after one of the long moderates in the canyon. Nov 30, 2024