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Routes in Ragged Edges Area
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Aikido Gun Boy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Bodiddly T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Chicken Eruptus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Crooked Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dense Dunce T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dense Pack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Diplomatic Immunity T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dumptruck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Footloose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Getting Too Old for This S--t T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Go Ahead and Jump T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Go Ahead, Ok? T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Kemosabe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lethal Weapon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Midheight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Midnight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Nightman Cometh, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ok Ok Ok T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Plan F T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Plan F - Early Exit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ragged Edges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Revoked T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sheep Trail T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Theme Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tonto T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Unknown crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Jeff Lansing, Joe Herbst, early 1970's |
| Page Views: | 24,611 total · 97/month |
| Shared By: | George Bell on Feb 20, 2004 · Updates |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
The classic trad route of Willow Springs. This route faces NE and can be cold, it is shady most of the day. Last time I led this I kinda forgot about all the wide sections and got a bit nervous on the runouts. It is quite commonly led with nothing bigger than a #4 Camalot (or less), for which it should probably be considered to have an "R" rating.
If you don't have big gear you can just do the first (short) pitch and rap from bolts. Be considerate of others who want to do the entire route, however. Especially with a 60m rope, it is possible to lead this as one long pitch, although you may want to do a short second pitch to reach the walk-off.
Climb the obvious crack in the center of the cliff. The first part is hand jamming and stemming, you'll reach a 2 bolt anchor at 60'. From here you can top-rope Ragged Edges and Plan F to its left. Above here the crack gets wider, at one point where it looks like you'll have to get inside and off-width it you move out onto the right face. The top out is rather indistinct and it can be hard to find a good belay anchor. Watch out for crumbly rock at the top out.
From the top, walk down easily to the right (north).
Photos
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