Cloud Tower
5.12a,
Trad, 810 ft (245 m), 6 pitches, Grade IV,
Avg: 3.9 from 463
votes
FA: Van Betten, Harrison, Nordblom 1983
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> (11) Juniper Ca…
> Cloud Tower
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
One of the best long free climbs of its grade in the country. On a par with The Naked Edge, the Prow, and Astroman. This route should not be missed. If you climb at this level, you will not have lead a full life without experiencing The Cloud Tower!
Approach: Same as Crimson Chrysalis. Average approach time about an hour, unless you're an old geezer like me. Cloud Tower begins about 100-130 feet right and downhill of CC, at an obvious chimney that leads to a left facing dihedral. N.B. some pitches are described differently than as suggested by the guides. Aspect: North facing until the last pitch which faces west and soaks up the afternoon sun. The initial pitches can be chilly.
P1. Climb the squeeze chimney and up the hand crack in the left facing corner (5.8). Rather than stopping at the ledge (135'), we kept climbing up the corner above for another 100 feet or so (5.8) and stopped on the next obvious ledge. (5.8, 225')
P2. Traverse up and way left, past a tree, to the base of a beautiful splitter handcrack, climb it (5.10) and then trend up and left to the base of an awesome right facing, right angling corner. Another rope stretcher. (5.10, 210+')
P3. IMO, the crux pitch. Face climb discontinuous cracks up and left past a bolt into the corner, ascend the corner with Eldorado-like face climbing and stemming and then tips laybacking for what seems like an eternity. (5.12-, 115'; Rack: 1.5F, nuts, blue/black aliens, green aliens, 1F, 1.5-2.5F)
P4. A long "easy" pitch (120', 5.10) that will be exciting if your rack is short on larger sizes or if your wide flaring crack technique is wanting. (Rack: I am embarrassed to confess having 3 each of 2.5-3.5 F, 2 4Fs and a 4 Camalot and using them all.)
P5. The Harding Slot of Red Rocks. The guide describes climbing a scary offwidth to the top of the tower at 5.10+. We climbed a short wide section (5.7) and then tunneled through the tower. The crux was squeezing through a taper for about 3 feet onto the west face. Not recommended for the bulbous or the claustrophobic. Some friends have climbed to the top of the tower as the guide suggests, while others traversed the tower (climbed right from the belay around the tower). No one has expressed great joy at the thought of repeating any of these options. (5.?, 45-50')
P6. After emerging from the birth canal, you are suddenly transplanted onto the west face of the tower at the base of a stellar Indian Creekish hand crack. Climb the flaring hand crack through several awkward bulges (5.11), while shedding as much clothing as you can remove. Potential radical temperature difference after the north face experience. Save a 1 camalot and some energy for the final hard moves to the belay. (5.11+, 110', Rack: (2) 1 camalots, (2-3 each) 2.5-3.5Fs)
I understand that this brilliant route has been extended but do not yet know further details.
Protection
RPs/brass and offset nuts optional. 4-6 cams in the .1-.2 size (000 C3 was used as well), doubles from .3-1, 3 #2's, 3 #3's, 1 or 2 #4's.
For the rap 2, 70-meter ropes are recommended, but two 60's would probably work as well.
[Hide Photo] Jake leads the crux Dihedral (12-) with Ben at the belay, photo cred: T. Melin.
[Hide Photo] Matt Kuehl cleaning up the last pitch on Cloud Tower.
[Hide Photo] Climbers on the crux corner of the third pitch. Heavily chalked holds are visible across the canyon.
[Hide Photo] Andrew Gomoll cranks the final crux bulge on the 7th pitch.
[Hide Photo] Getting worked at the top of the crux corner on Thanksgiving photo: Greg Jackson
[Hide Photo] Beta for the .11d (12-) "crux" pitch. The first piece with the sling is stuck up there, as are two stoppers, and my friend found out they're all good, so go for it!
[Hide Photo] One way to exit the 'birth canal'
[Hide Photo] Cloud Tower reaching the skyline on the right, Ginger Buttress is the triangular buttress left of center.
Parker, CO
1) #00 - #2 TCU's (mostly #0 and #1) also work well to protect the dihedral crux pitch (11d). I wouldn't argue with a 12- rating but it was easier than 29 Palms in J-Tree.
2) As of spring '03, the birth canal at the top of the squeeze chimney has been substantially widened! Someone must have removed a large block. Accessing the ledge at the base of the final west facing and bulging hand crack pitch (11c) no longer requires a svelt physique. The first time I climbed the route I had to remove my harness in order to squeeze on through to the other side.
3) The route has been extended but I haven't had a chance to check it out. I saw at least four bolts protecting overhanging face climbing beyond the anchors on the final pitch. Mar 1, 2004
As for being on par with all these other super classics, thats a matter of opinion, but I would say comparing this climb with the edge and astroman is a streeeetch.
As for the super-gnarly offwidth birth canal maddness, see similiar comments above, I am not going to give it away, but some modifications have been made, and that thing is sure as shit not as bad as it used to be. Think crawling...At most, that pitch is not a 5.9 s pitch, with the 5.9 being the face climbing before you get to mandatory chimmney/off-width.
The crux pitch is hard. 11+, 12-, you be the judge. Even KACKALACKI, uber-thin fingers man whipped on it.
Great route, not to be missed.
Mar 26, 2004
P8: Head straight up the really nice offwidth crack if there is such a thing. The first third can be protected with hand size cams, and the end can be protected with those extra #3 and or #4 Camalots, but the meat of it will either require boldness or a #5 Camalot. 5.10-.
P9: A short, wandering romp to the summit.
I have climbed CT four times and three of the four I've topped out and rapped Crimson. The "standard" rappel from the top of the long hand crack pitch is a rope-eating PITA (and if doing it with a single 70m rather sketchy too) and I won't do it that way again. Why bring two ropes only to bail off a route at an illogical place and set yourself up for grief when you can top out and rap easily with one rope? Nov 3, 2004
Excellent route. Could use a rap route to the R of the route instead of rope jams on the last rap or rapping over parties on C.C. Oct 4, 2005
Bend
I felt that the 4th pitch required many #3 and #3.5 or #4 camalots. I wished I would have had maybe 2 #3s, 3 #3.5 and 3 #4s, but then again my trad onsight leading limit is 5.10+, so this was pretty close to my limit. Depending on how comfortable the person leading this pitch is, they may need fewer cams. It's about 90 feet of the same fist or bigger size.
Super fun. The 5th pitch felt no harder than the tunnel on tunnel vision to me, which I believe they give 5.3X, but we didn't go to the top of the tower, we just tunneled behind it (and I'm pretty small).
Edit: After thinking about it, I think that crux pitch is definatly 12a. Mar 28, 2006
Salt Lake City, Utah
Our rack: C3s: Purple, Green, Red, Yellow
C4s: (1) Blue .3 + (2) Gray .4 + (2) Purple .5 + (2) Green .75 + (3) Red 1 + (3) Yellow 2 + (3) Blue 3 + (1) Gray 4 + (1) Purple 5
No nuts required.
The Extension: The crux 5.12+ pitch is horribly rotten and not worth free climbing. Aid at C1.
The next pitch, which should not be combined with the previous pitch, involves moderately difficult squeeze chimney climbing with a slight chance of decking. Nov 14, 2006
Boulder, CO
Innsbruck
Every pitch is awesome, but the crux pitch and the one after it stand out. Feb 22, 2009
Arden Hills, MN
Pitch 4 and 5 (as described above) can be linked with a 60m rope if you take the chimney option through the "birth canal" - which seems to be the obvious choice. Mar 25, 2009
Boulder, CO
Tucson/DMR
if climbing with 60 meter ropes, consider dividing up the opening pitches as follows:
1) climb the squeeze chimney and up the hand crack in the left facing corner (5.8). belay at the ledge at a tree tied with several slings(130').
2) continue up the corner above for another 70 feet (5.8). pass a tree with rap anchors on your right, and continue up about 30 feet on easy terrain. traverse up and left 20' past a tree to the base of a beautiful thin hands crack. belay at the ledge found here (130').
continue on the handcrack described in P2 in the OP. if belaying at the base of the crack, this pitch will be 140'.
we found that the following gear works well:
1 full set of nuts
triples of black, blue, and green aliens
doubles of yellow, grey, red, and gold aliens
doubles of camalot .75
triples of camalots 1 & 2
five camalot 3
three camalot 4
note that this rack assumes that you tunnel through the chimney on pitch 5 (as described in the OP) instead of climbing the wide flaring offwidth. Jun 17, 2009
Parker, CO
Bishop, CA
Bozeman, MT
Estes Park
Sacramento, CA
Getting up .11+ is a good deal different than getting up .12+ for one. Also, have you ever rapped Crimson? Maybe it would be a better statement to ask why Crimson Chrysalizers don't rap Cloud Tower. Apr 22, 2011
Durango, CO
Boulder, CO
The P1+P2 link up goes down well using a 60, with just a hair of easy simuling to get to the fixed slings at the beginning of the ledge system.
For the crux (P4) I found a double set of tiny to small cams gets the job done i.e. doubles of green, purples, red and yellow C3s or similar. Larger than that, having a set of cams from .4-#2 camalot is sufficient on that pitch also. This pitch is way harder that anything else on the route, but can readily be hang dogged/french freed if need be. Clean falls on good, but small gear. I placed the singular nut we used on the whole route on the pitch- a mid sized nut on the traverse into the corner. RP's aren't necessary.
There are fixed anchors on top of P1, P2, P3 and P4 but not P5. The first two are slings around natural anchors the 3rd and the 4th are bolts. P6 has a slung block you can rap from, but belaying off of it wouldn't work out too well.
On another note, the raps are pretty annoying and a touch confusing, especially since there aren't rap lengths in Handren's book. We burned a lot of time going back and forth from a two rope to a one rope system. Here is what I would try next time:
1st rappel- double rope rappel to the mid-size tree, skipping the large sloping ledge with the fixed bolt anchor
2nd rappel- double rope rappel to the scraggly tree towards top of the gully
3rd rappel- approximately 200' double rope rappel straight down the clean face below to the huge ledge system
4th rappel- walk across the ledge to the top of P2 and do a single rope rappel to the slung block.
5th rappel- double rope (or single with a 70m) rappel to the ground
Note: You could likely link the last two raps with two 60m ropes with stretch, but based upon the nature of the crack, you would have a healthy chance of getting your rope severely stuck in the crack. The two cut ropes deep in the crack seem to be pretty good testament to this. Oct 25, 2011
Grand Junction
Rainbowweinstock's comments about the rappels were spot on, my only clarification is on the 2nd rappel from the big tree, put the rope to the rappelers right of the huge block, rapelling back towards the climb. The rappels were some of the easiest I've done in Red Rocks, easy pulls with nothing to get caught on on big ledges. 5 star route. Nov 29, 2011
Sounds like math/memory issues to me. Otherwise sounds right on, glad you enjoyed the route. Nov 30, 2011
- The anchor immediately below the crux pitch is good.
- The first pro bolt on the crux pitch is a 1/4" er and in bad shape. It is my opinion that it should be pulled and not replaced as there is a bomber blue TCU/green Alien placement right next to it and a bomber wire a few feet higher. These placements are actually more in line with the climbing as well.
- The second pro bolt on the crux pitch is a 3/8" er, in apparently decent shape except for a thin Leeper hanger. It is my opinion that this bolt should also be pulled and not replaced as there are various bomber cam placements of all sizes immediately below, in line with, and above the bolt.
- The anchor atop the crux pitch has one good bolt, a 1/4" button head that is bad, and another 1/4" er that is also bad. This anchor doesn't really need to be replaced because there is good gear in the crack for an anchor here, but there is bail gear on these bolts so maybe people use it for rappelling?
- The next anchor is the one atop the Indian Creek hand crack pitch. It has four or five bolts, only one of which appears good, and a lot of tat. Since this is the start of the rap route, it should probably be cleaned up to be a nice 2 bolt station with decent hardware.
- I can't comment on the rap route's bolts because we continued to the top.
- The bolts on the 12d pitch are good.
- The bolted anchor below the 5.10 OW is good.
Mar 28, 2012Longmont, CO
Edit 4/25/16: There are currently two old bolts, a fixed #1 C3 and a fixed grey TCU on the 5.12- corner pitch. This route is still miraculous and well protected and uber mega fun. Mar 28, 2012
1: Paul can outdrink me.
2: Richard Harrison will never stop being a straight-up badass. Fact.
3: (this is kinda the important part):
NONE OF THE BOLTS CLIPPED BY MODERN CLIMBERS WAS PLACED BY PAUL VAN B, RICHARD H, OR NICK N.
The original attempts made on the line were by none other than Randall Grandstaff, protege of Joe Herbst (who also placed bolts next to cracks back before adequate clean pro existed) along with Paul Crawford of Tahoe fame. They pushed the route above the first .11 pitch, but did not send. Pro bolts and bail/belay anchors were placed PRIOR to the send by the FA party. All of the bolts at the final station on the original free route (ends just above the Creek splitter) are full-on retrobolts, placed after several/maybe many ascents had been ticked. The FA party has the understanding that some of the changes that occured on the route since the early days were at the behest of McQuade, who chipped the first extension pitch, and also pried out the flexy flake that was the meat of the P7 anchor (RPs placed by PVB after projectile vomiting from the stress of onsighting the final pitch at the end of a long day) as well as the large blocks that forced early parties to offwidth to the top of the tower rather than tunnel through.
There are a lot of good stories about this route around, but here are a couple of good facts worth sharing:
The FA party rated the route 11 b/c and still believe it to be so.
Paul and Richard understand that ASCA protocol and individual bolt preferences are pushing people to want to alter their route, and have the following solution: the anchors should be reduced to 2 good stainless bolts at all stations and set up for raps. Both pro bolts have been requested by 2/3 majority of the first ascent party (again, Nick couldn't make it and we've been playing phone tag) to be LEFT THE FUCK ALONE. The consensus is that since there are good gear placements nearby, just leave the old Grandstaff/Crawford bolts alone. New bolts are not necessary to protect the climb, and chopping them smacks of the same type of "this route's now kinda MY route" flavor that McQuade put out there. The first ascentionists want the old pro bolts on P4 left alone. Period. For historical flavor, for respect for the dead, for just not making the route the scene of some stupid controversy.
Hope that settles things, it was a pleasure hanging with those guys as always and with the utmost respect for all of their contributions to putting up routes in Red Rock in the very best style request that anyone planning on carrying out bolt replacement work abide by their wishes. -K Apr 24, 2012
Joshua Tree
This does raise a question though, you wrote:
"The first ascentionists want the old pro bolts on P4 left alone. Period"
As you related it, PVB/RH/NN weren't the FA of that pitch. So in a sense, they did something similar to McQuade (minus the chipping), they extended the route by adding pitches. Their ending point is kind of in the middle of nowhere, understandable because the rock quality deteriorates signficantly, but nevertheless they didn't end at a "logical" place like the top of a tower, big ledge, etc. So if your concern is the wishes of the FA-ists, seems to me you should be talking with the people who established that pitch, i.e. Crawford. May 8, 2012
I can call Crawford anytime, but to ask him about this? The guys that freed the thing in good style have spoken. I guess you think I need McQuade's permission to replace the anchors he retrobolted on, too?
I'm not sure this post or the last one add much of value to the collective consciousness. Now, Unconsciousness....
Drink your Robitussin and go to sleep, America. Somewhere, the bolt fairy is plucking ringtail teeth from a crack and turning them into stainless hangers. May 10, 2012
Las Vegas
Reference the rack, we followed John's post above and it was perfect. We took 70's with us and followed the link-up beta as well and had room to spare.
We also followed John's Rappel beta. A little care should be taken on the 2nd Rappel when pulling as we found it rather easy to get the rope stuck on the small tower above you after you pull.
On a final note, we got a #1 C4 stuck at the top of the final pitch. We tried forever to get that puppy out but it wasn't budging. I know this is a long shot, but... If anyone is feeling chivalrous and feels like getting it out and returning it, I'll throw $20 and some delicious homebrew at you for your efforts! (You can't blame a guy for trying!)
All in all, fantastic route that is not to be missed. Nov 13, 2013
San Diego, Ca
sooooooo
RAP from top of pitch two to top of pitch one then to the ground. Don't combined. There are a lot of stuck ropes in a crack on the way down. Nov 16, 2013
Bend, OR
There is a gear belay at the top of the long 10c pitch (right before the slot). I used a .5, a .75 and a 1 C4 (ideally it's two .5s and a .75 if I did it again) Mar 22, 2014
From the standard end of the route after the hand crack:
P6 - Overhanging ~.12d on sandy rock and fragile flakes - easily pulled through due to close bolts. Also easily combined with the 35m hand crack pitch below.
P7 - Climb the smooth 5.10 OW/Squeeze above, which would be hard to protect with anything smaller than a #6, and even that might not work. Or simply walk to the right 10m and then follow a 5.easy corner leftish to the same large ledge. You will be under a big blank wall with a mungy corner out right or a steep chimney up and left.
P8 - The Chimney - This thing is the gaping chasm in the prow of the wall up and to the left. It looks horrendous but it is actually splitter and awesome, with numerous short good cracks and fun climbing behind large chockstones. 5.10b
Now after truly topping out on the feature, it is possible to walk down and right, eventually picking up cairns and a goat trail, and even a hand line at one point, which descends and cuts across toward the bowl beneath Rainbow Wall. You have to lose several hundred feet of elevation and deal with typical desert convoluted terrain in passing across a major gully, so it is more complex than simply walking across the hill at the level of the bottom of Rainbow Wall.
70m rap from the standard finish -
1 -Rap the final pitch back to the belay (35m)
2 -Rap off the slings/tat beneath the final pitch, down and right to tree 30' below big ledge
3 -Rap to Chockstone anchor
4 -Rap to tree at base of sheer wall
5 -Rap from tree to Tree on ledge. 95' rappel
6 - Rap From Tree on ledge to top of 2nd 5.8 pitch, 90' rappel
7 - Rap From top of 2nd 5.8 pitch to top of 1st 5.8 pitch, 50'
8 - Rap P1 - Super close to 35m, watch your ends! (easy few meters of downclimbing may be required) Apr 1, 2014
-we took a single 70m and the only sketchy bit was getting back to the base of the last pitch ("indian creek" rt. facing dihedral, I believe this is p7 in the book) I think the book lists this at 110' but with my 70m it involved shenanigans.
-next rap, we skipped the ledge to the tree which was also a little funky (pendulum potential)
- last rap came up a few feet short, but super casual.
-still two fixed cams, two bolts on the crux pitch.
-we linked 1&2 and 5&6 without issue (used a high cam on the tunnel just to keep the rope out of the loose stuff).
-regarding difficulty, I'm not qualified to comment, the last pitch worked me.
-but,... just to stir the pot,... why grade IV commitment? The approach took under an hour with braided trail navigation. We took no pack on route, but I had an extra number four, because of my miserable crack technique.
-sun hit p7 a little after one and we rapped in the shade.
enjoy, Apr 13, 2014
Saint George, UT
Jackson, WY
Gear: doubles of everything to #4 BD, triple up on #2s and #3s.
Pitches: link both 5.8 pitches together, climb the fun .10, climb the crux pitch 11+, climb another fun .10, go through chimney (not tight unless you are sumo wrestler), enduro fest on the .11 (probably not too bad if you are in shape, save a .75 BD for the top).
Opinions: people say crux pitch is much harder than the rest of the route, I disagree. If you master footwork it you probably won't get too pumped, whereas on the last pitch I got wrecked because I hadn't climbed much in the previous months. Nuts Not needed for any pitch.
Rappels: rap the final pitch to a good ledge below the start of the last pitch, rap down to a tree, rap again to massive ledge system (same ledge as end of the 5.8 P2), walk over to anchors at top of the 5.8 P2, rap to ground. We had a 60m and 70m, not sure if two 60s would work.
IMPORTANT: the bolts at the top of the last pitch are shady, probably needing replacement. One of the newer ones was working its way out. We used some bail cord to connect the other old bolts to the system for backup. Dec 5, 2014
Traveling
Santa Fe, NM
Van Life, USA
This route was SUPER fun, probably one of the coolest I did during my week there. The crack system you follow is always gear accepting and very positive.
A WAY awesome route, don't over think it, place when needed, and set your speed on cruise!
I don't entirely agree on suggested gear, but bring what you think you want. Large cams are unnecessary, doubles in 3 camalot is biggest I'd bring again.
Pitches 4 and 7 were tough but really fun, the rest went easy, pitch 5 (10c?) is softer then Reed's Direct 5.9 in Yosemite.
Every pitch was cool and easily protected! Having a speedy party behind us was awesome, up and down fast using both our ropes for rappelling. Can't wait to send this again!! May 14, 2015
Lander, WY
Silver Spring, MD
berkeley, ca
P1 / P2 - link with a 60 with the second moving up just a bit
P3 - barely 5.10
P4 - seemed 12a to us. I thought the crux was the face climbing below where you really get established in the corner. Green / Black aliens work great in the corner. No nuts needed. Make sure you have the small cams. one fixed cam, but no fixed nuts in this pitch
P5 / P6 - definitely link easily - no reason not to. P5 easy for the grade compared to Yos. Going through the "cave" is really easy and wide.
P7 - many rests along the way and a thuggy final crux move to the ledge. Great pitch Apr 27, 2016
AZ
Definitely space that gear out on the last pitch, even if it means you're just leap-frogging. Felt like more #3's needed than anything else, although it changes sizes from 1-3 some-what frequently. Also glad to have both #4's to leave along the way and save the 2's and 3's.
We rapped with and 80m rope. The chock-stone rap station didn't have any webbing on it on 3/4/17, but our 80m made it with zero rope to spare to the following tree station. A very trivial/unexposed down-climb to that tree is NBD. With as mega-classic as this route is, it would be nice to have a more established (bolted) rap rather than the many aging slings left around trees. Mar 16, 2017
We linked Pitch 1 & 2, as well as 5 & 6. Finished at pitch 7. We had singles of .1-.4, doublses of .5-1, triples of 2, and double 3. Definitly forgot that third 3 and could have used another 2, especially on the last pitch. We hauled our backpack and large gear up the crux pitch so both of us could climb it in style, good tip. I could see the last pitch being lead comfortably by someone who is used to that style (and downgrading it considerably). Actually, I did see my partner follow up the cupped hands crux with ease, but I certainly didn't lead it with such finesse.
Rapping didn't seem complicated. We did take one extra rap because we weren't sure where we were in relation to other people's descriptions, so to avoid missing a station or getting a rope stuck, we just took an early anchor and rapped again. Mar 20, 2017
Boulder, CO
Arlington, MA
link pitches 1 and 2 with a 70.
pitch 3 is super fun
pitch 4 is amazing!! 0.2 camalots and tcus are very useful
pitch 5 was scary AF for me since i only had 1 #4. climbing is relatively easy (felt more like 10a) but the runouts spooked me. if you want the proper gear I would bring at least 2 5s and a 6 but if youre climbing 12a trad you can just run it out
pitch 6 super easy. basically plumbers crack. no gear needed. gear anchor at the end
pitch 7 super fun, strenuous corner climber reminiscent of indian creek
rappel beta
while the book shows that the rappels are off to the right they actually trend left quite a bit, especially the on to the top of pitch 2 Nov 29, 2017
Da Nang, VN
The climb:
P1&2 are somewhat forgettable, you can make it all the way up to a huge bushy ledge with a 70 instead of stopping in the blocky section the topo references.
P3: cool tight hands crack, 5.10- would be really pushing it, felt more like 5.9.
P4: the Crux, trickier than it looks! Also if you have meaty fingers like myself, your not going to be able to get any finger locks until the last 10/15 feet.
P5&6: the offwidth is cool but quite easy for .10c. lots of cheater holds and stuff. Makes sense to link with the tunnel pitch, which is only like 30 feet and real easy.
P7: the money pitch of the route I think, amazing 5.10 hands with a series of overlaps to the Crux at the top, make sure you save some juice for the last 5 feet!
Gear: I was concerned with the Crux pitch gear that we overlooked looking at the gear beta for the rest of the climb.... Our rack was a set of offset nuts, 1 set of C3s, 00, 0 metolious ul, black totem, doubles from .3-1, 3 #2's, and 3 #3's. The rack was fine, but the upper section of the pitch 4 offwidth was a bit run out. One number 4 would be plenty.
Decent: the rap station was kind of a mess, carabineers with the gates taped type shit. For all the routes in RR with rap stations for routes I am not sure why this one is so janky. It works just annoying trying to pull the tagline and rope through bushes and shit. Feb 17, 2020
Terrebonne, OR
La Sal, UT
Great route, tat on anchors 3 and 7 is getting a bit worn or crunchy if you’re heading up soon. Only fixed piece on the route is a 3.5 on last pitch that will definitely come out, totally forgot to get it on the way down. If you want to move fast bring another #3 and #2 from the recommended rack, will save you either bumping or climbing slow and cautious Jan 11, 2021
Fairbanks, AK
Revelstoke, BC
Rap 1 (bolts): Back down to the start of last pitch (birth canal exit platform). While close, our rope did not quite reach the giant ledge below. Perhaps simul rapping on a stretchy rope could just barely get you there and allow you to skip Rap 2, but attempt this at your own risk. Personally, I wouldn't bother.
Rap 2 (slung block): Short rap down to the giant ledge, and a bit of walking skier's left to an obvious bolted station.
Rap 3 (bolts): Short rap down to a large tree.
- It's possible to link rap 2 and 3, but the swing potential is huge. I managed by draping the strands above me over a small horn and flicking it off before pulling, but next time, I'd just split it up. Alternatively, a fixed carabiner on the bolted station to clip as a directional would probably work well too. Currently, there is not one there.
Rap 4 (slung tree): Toss your rope slightly skier's right and descend almost the entire length of the rope to a smaller (7-8" diameter?) tree. I probably had about 2m to spare.Rap 5 (slung tree): Start rapping straight down, then slightly skier's right to an obvious, large ledge with a fairly large tree. This ledge is on a blunt arete, with an aspect change below it.
Rap 6 (slung tree): Slightly skier's right down to the large ledge at the base of the 10a pitch. From here, easy, unroped walking to the skier's right takes you to a visually obvious station in an alcove. Be careful to avoid dislodging loose rocks with your rope here.
Rap 7 (pitons, etc.): Down the 5.8 corner system you climbed at the start of the day, stopping at the station you almost surely noticed on your way up.
Rap 8 (slung pinch in crack): Down to the ground. We went slightly skier's left to reduce the chance of our ropes getting stuck in the P1 crack.
For what it's worth, the final pitch received no PM sun at all when we were there (Nov 6), despite a nearly cloudless sky.
I was happy to have some smaller cams (BD 0.4 and up) for the final pitch, in addition to the obviously useful larger gear. The final bulge has some slabby terrain below it, and by that point, you have a fair bit of rope out. I was stoked to plug a cam from pretty much every reasonable stance I found in that section. Nov 7, 2021
Boulder, CO
Black Rock City
Outrageously fun and aesthetic route - lives up to the hype! Nov 19, 2021
Flagstaff, AZ
My partner and I didn't find MP and the Handren guide's rappel info to be very specific or complete, especially when doing it in the dark. So hopefully I can add something useful for future descents.
RAP BETA:
-Rappelling from the top of the fantastic bulgy hand crack, skip the ledge anchor and go straight over the lip of the ledge to the giant pine tree. Doing the short rap wastes time and your ropes will certainly make it to the tree.
-The next rappel is long and goes down climber's right to a gnarled tree at a semi sloping ledge with tat, a quick link, and a ring. This tat may need to be replaced.
-The next rappel goes straight down maybe slightly climbers left to a giant safe ledge. Pull your ropes and walk/skirt the cliff wall to the climbers left and you will soon recognize you're on top of the first pitch if you did it as a 230 footer.
-We didn't like any of the tree/bush rappel options and none of them had tat on them so we went with the anchor on the far left of the wall that consisted of two seemingly bomber rusted angled pitons and a nut with some cordelette and a single carabiner. At least this rappel keeps your ropes from getting eaten by the first pitch crack. Down you go and back on the ground you are.
-Bring a knife and extra cordelette. We had to replace 2 of the tat stations.
-It has been mentioned ad nauseam in these comments but such a respectable route deserves updated hardware and a better rappel line. I'm only a tourist to Red Rock so my opinion matters little but I believe many generations to come would benefit from thoughtful and intentional updating. Although, a side of me loved the sense of adventure and wild feel the route has in its current state. Feb 25, 2022
Boston
Just climbed this and there are glue-in bolts for the whole rap line. Mostly follows the old rap line, but stays away from the trees a bit more. One 70m rope works.
1- From the top of the hand-crack pitch, rap straight down to an anchor in the middle of the blank wall.
2- Rap straight down to an anchor on the edge of the big ledge. You can also reach this anchor from the slung chockstone after the tunnel pitch. No longer go to the old bolted anchor far right that would take you to the tree.
3- Rap straight down the clean wall to an anchor at a small stance in a stem-box.
4- Rap straight down and slightly to the right to an anchor on a ledge by a small boulder.
5- Rap straight down the slab between the trees to an anchor just above and right of the old gnarled tree.
6- Rap down the gully / slot to a white boulder on the big ledge. Pull rope and walk left back to top of pitch 1/2.
7- Rap straight down to anchor.
8- Rap to ground. Oct 18, 2022
Insane climb! The 5.12 roof was insanely hard. The birth canal was quite easy for my small stature and there is a good belay option in it on small gear. Last pitch is also delicious! Feb 26, 2023
oakland
THANK YOU to whoever recently went up and added rap bolts. It now goes comfortably with a single 70mm rope. No shenanigans needed.
From the base of the 6th pitch (indian creek splitter), you can rap off the webbing straight down to a perfect rap anchor roughly 32m down. From there, keep your eyes out for rap rings at roughly 30m on each successive rap. Once you get to the huge ledge at top of 5.8 pitches, walk 30' climbers left to an anchor on a small wall off by itself. One more rap halfway down the 5.8 and you are on the ground.
I do not think it goes with a 60mm. Apr 19, 2023
Las Vegas, NV
P4 and 7 are 11d and 11+ and brilliant! P7 is a quest! Nov 23, 2023
Flagstaff, AZ