PRINT: Rock Climb Varnishing Point, Red Rocks

Varnishing Point

5.8+, Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 2.7 from 203 votes
FA: Joe Herbst and Larry Hamilton, March 1976
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (10) Pine Creek… > Brass Wall

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

The Brass Wall is split by a nice looking 2-pitch crack system with a big ledge halfway up. This is Varnishing Point.

P1: 5.5, ~80' Climb an easy crack with good pro to a large ledge.

P2: 5.8+, ~80' Climb up to an overhang and lieback out left following the crack. Clip a bolt on the face before you climb down and right of an offwidth section to the rap anchors on another small ledge. This pitch is full value but takes great gear.

Descent: Double rope rap.

Protection

Pro to 3" works fine.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

brass wall

Varnishing Point from the rap on No Laughing Matter

Varnishing Point...or a variation of, Red Rock, NV

J.C. leading crux pitch two.

Linking 1&2

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

L. Hamilton

Historical note: FA March 1976, Joe Herbst and Larry Hamilton. The name was inspired by the 1971 cult movie "Vanishing Point," which had recently been screened in Boulder. Feb 26, 2004

Randy Carmichael
Boulder, CO

5.8+

A #4 Camalot is useful on both the 1st and 2nd pitches. Nov 8, 2004

Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
Vegas

5.8+

Although the pitches are short, this is still a fun, worthwhile route to do. We only had gear to a #3, which was fine, but on the initial moves of pitch 1, it would have been nice to be able to sink a #4 cam in above a huge, very suspect looking block, before standing on it. Looks like it'll break off one day. I didn't trust it enough to put my full weight on it, that's for sure! Jan 6, 2006

Steve Blevins
Central Coast, CA

5.9

Maybe I missed a hold, but the crux moves are as hard as any 5.9 I've done. I had to really crank into the lieback because the patina is so slick my foot popped off with a comfortable lieback start. I found nearby Topless Twins a comfortable 5.9. Mar 28, 2009

Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ

5.8+

Linking the two pitches with a 60m rope is no problem if you keep rope drag in mind.

A bit of a one move wonder in terms of difficulty, but still pretty enjoyable. Feb 14, 2010

Canon

Does anyone know if you can get off the top of P2 with a 70m rope? We got up the first pitch before realizing that the rap bolts were "on the backside" and we didn't want to risk an epic, or more importantly, a big fat ticket. Dec 8, 2012

Mike Robinson
Boulder, CO

You can definitely get off of this with a single 70m with rope stretch. Jan 9, 2015

aschmidt

To clarify, there is a bolt with quicklink at the top of this climb, but if you climb over the top and step down to a large ledge, there is a two-bolt anchor. From this anchor (the same one used on Go Greyhound, etc.) it is 35m to the ground. Jan 10, 2015

John Oberbeck

5.8+ PG13

Climbed this route on Sunday.
P1- straightforward 5.6 climbing with a spider crux maybe 8 feet off the deck for the arachnophobes out there.
P2- from the belay ledge, traverse left, then back right up the class III ramp for for the first 6 feet or so. Crux is moving from beneath the left-facing roof right onto the face. The second half of the pitch has dubious places for protection. A #4 c4 is helpful, as are smaller cams. Bring two ropes for the rap. Nov 15, 2016

Pawel Janowski
Seattle, WA

5.8+

Easy to combine as a single pitch. Great climb, full value. Mar 6, 2018

LB Edwards
Austin, TX

5.8

I'm not too certain what Mike Robinson is talking about getting off of this with a single 70m - we rappelled down and had to setup a sling around a handle made by the huecos on Go Greyhound. Oct 23, 2018

tom donnelly
san diego

You can rap with one 60m in two raps. 1st rap from the chains to the big ledge. You need to swing over a little. Direct the rap rope towards your goal, not straight down. You can set an anchor here at the top of P1. 2nd rap - walk 15 feet to the chains on the big ledge. Nov 21, 2018

Bryan Friesen
Las Vegas, NV

If you follow the route description and down climb after clipping the bolt at the top of the route, a 70m will get you down to the ground. Also, a #4 C4 wouldn't hurt to have if you're at your limit. The first half of the second pitch is awesome. Jan 6, 2019

Evan Gover
Fort Collins

80m gets you to the ground from the rap station at the end of pitch 2 with 10 feet left Jan 3, 2020

Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA

5.7

Would not recommend rapping this with a 70m. 80m minimum or use two ropes. Also, you can combine the two pitches into one pitch without rope drag if you extend alpine draws and place the pieces judiciously. Dec 31, 2020

slim

5.8+

with a 70 you basically rap off the end of the rope while downclimbing about 8 feet of easy-ish 5th. i agree an 80 would be a better choice here if you have one. Dec 31, 2020

Jared Dye
Lexington, KY

5.9-

I agree the layback going around the roof on pitch 2 is a stout move. I saw evidence of people bypassing this by climbing out right onto the face and into a possibly easier corner. Either way, clip the bolt at the top of the pitch and downclimb 10' to a belay ledge. 80m rope gets you to the ground. Jan 19, 2021