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Peyote Blues

5.12b, TR, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 13 votes
FA: Rich Bechler and Dave Groth,1985 or 86. First Lead: Jason Huston, 2006
Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 04 - E… > 06: Gill's Buttress

Description

Slightly more difficult than Acid Rock, Peyote Blues climbs the right side of the Gill's Nose arete. Starting on the huge block (as per Acid rock), climb left to the corner, slap the corner, and continue to the top. Unusual for a 5.12 at the Lake, Peyote has no crimps on it. Expect extreme body tension moves and large, generally bad holds.

Protection

Toprope

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Acid wall. After watching the video of EZ climbing Ice, I moved the line for the lower half of Ice and Blood Alcohol a bit left so that it goes over the holds that EZ used below Peyote. See the video posted by Tony Brengosz in the comments under Ice.
[Hide Photo] Acid wall. After watching the video of EZ climbing Ice, I moved the line for the lower half of Ice and Blood Alcohol a bit left so that it goes over the holds that EZ used below Peyote. See the vid…
Gill's Buttress
[Hide Photo] Gill's Buttress
Pete Cleveland attempting Peyote Blues, 1982
[Hide Photo] Pete Cleveland attempting Peyote Blues, 1982

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs, co
[Hide Comment] first top-roped by Rich Bechler and Dave Groth ,1985 or 86 Nov 6, 2002
Anonymous Coward
[Hide Comment] Another good way to approach this route is to traverse in from Gill's Nose with your hands about the level of Peter's feet in the photo. Personally, I never had the guns left to finish the route after the Nose start. ABQ. Apr 23, 2003
SteveS
[Hide Comment] since jason is too modest to put it in himself: first known lead, Jason Huston, late december 2006/early january 2007.

how did he describe it??? "Frightening" Jan 23, 2007
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs, co
[Hide Comment] Jason, Another impressive send.What in the hell did ya get fer gear?or was there any? Congrats on a fine lead. Steve S. PEACE AND FUK-NES Jan 29, 2007
SteveS
[Hide Comment] jason, you're such a featherbagger.

steve Jan 31, 2007
Alex A
 
[Hide Comment] As I remember when Rich Bechler did the FA of the route the left corner was off and it was 5.13, then using the left corner become the standard route, I think Eric Z, did it bare foot, he was getting bored climbing in shoes, doing a lot of the 5.12's and at least one 13 bare foot, Aug 9, 2007