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Wisconsin
> Baraboo Range
> Devil's Lake
> E Bluff 04 - E…
> 09: Many Pines Buttress
Peter's Project
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 3.5 from 258
votes
Routes in 09: Many Pines Buttress
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Algae T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Anemia T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Anemic Ladder T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Asleep in a Fuk-nes Dream TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Black Rib T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Broken Ladder TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Callipigeanous Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Callipigeanous Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Double Clutch (AKA Chickens Don't Fly) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Flatus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jamboree T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Kamikaze T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Man and Superman T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Michael's Project T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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No Trump T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ostentation T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ottobahn T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Peter's Project T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Peter's Project Right Side T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pleasures of the Groin TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sewing Machine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Superman T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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V8 T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | First Top Rope: Peter Gardiner, late 1950'sFirst Lead/Solo: Unknown |
| Page Views: | 17,296 total · 63/month |
| Shared By: | James Schroeder on May 26, 2002 |
| Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
Peter's Project is the route to do at Devil's Lake. The 5.7 climber will be well-challenged by the route's initial low crux. However, this toil will be rewarded with excellent climbing on the beautiful, low-angle face above. Even those climbers with more experience should not underestimate the funky body-English required to negotiate the polished holds and finger-locks in the first twenty feet - more than one 5.10 climber has been humbled by the sequential nature climbing here.
After the start, the angle, and difficulty, drop considerably. Here, climbers can choose to follow the right-angling crack to a pine tree, finishing on chunky, unaesthetic climbing above the tree. Preferably, and to get full-value from the route, many will head left, working into another crack system where they will enjoy excellent climbing in a beautiful position. All should pause at one of the many comfortable rests to take full-advantage, soak in the amazing view of the valley below, lean back, take a deep breath, look up at the sky and laugh at the world for a few seconds. It is here where, with the sunshine on their faces, many climbers have found the answer to the eternal question "Why?"
For those hoping to maximize their experience on Peter's, the route offers one more optional (although some purists and the 1970 Climber's and Hiker's Guide call it mandatory) challenge. Having taken the left crack system, climbers will find themselves deposited on a comfortable ledge, where they will encounter another ledge to their left, separated from the main wall by a #3.0 C4 size crack (a long sling is useful here). From this ledge, a two or three move sequence provides a final, but tenuous, upper-crux. The further left the climber stays the more difficult this sequence is.
After surmounting the "headwall" a move or two on blocky terrain deposits the climber at the base of a giant boulder. A few cams in the #0.75-#2.0 C4 size range will allow for quick and efficient anchor construction.
After the start, the angle, and difficulty, drop considerably. Here, climbers can choose to follow the right-angling crack to a pine tree, finishing on chunky, unaesthetic climbing above the tree. Preferably, and to get full-value from the route, many will head left, working into another crack system where they will enjoy excellent climbing in a beautiful position. All should pause at one of the many comfortable rests to take full-advantage, soak in the amazing view of the valley below, lean back, take a deep breath, look up at the sky and laugh at the world for a few seconds. It is here where, with the sunshine on their faces, many climbers have found the answer to the eternal question "Why?"
For those hoping to maximize their experience on Peter's, the route offers one more optional (although some purists and the 1970 Climber's and Hiker's Guide call it mandatory) challenge. Having taken the left crack system, climbers will find themselves deposited on a comfortable ledge, where they will encounter another ledge to their left, separated from the main wall by a #3.0 C4 size crack (a long sling is useful here). From this ledge, a two or three move sequence provides a final, but tenuous, upper-crux. The further left the climber stays the more difficult this sequence is.
After surmounting the "headwall" a move or two on blocky terrain deposits the climber at the base of a giant boulder. A few cams in the #0.75-#2.0 C4 size range will allow for quick and efficient anchor construction.
Location
On the southeast side of Many Pines buttress, near the arête of Ostentation. The main starting hold is a (typically) well-chalked, half-moon affair at eye-level. One other distinct identifier is the famous "Idaho" hold, a block protruding from the crack, ten-to-fifteen above the ground, that somewhat resembles the outline of the state of Idaho.
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