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Martin Quits
5.10c,
Trad, 40 ft (12 m),
Avg: 2.6 from 75
votes
FA: Jon Lonne & Dave Ohlsen, September 1976
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Hidden Valley Area
> Real Hidden Valley
> Gateway Rock
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This line is described as being on Gateway Rocks, but is actually an east-facing line about half-way between the Gateway and the Tumbling Rainbow formation. This short, striking fingercrack stands alone and is obvious when viewed from most points on the south or east sides of the Valley Loop trail. Approach as for routes such as
Semi Tough but continue further west to the east-facing wall.
Belay in the jumbled boulders at the base of the route and cast off upwards on good locks with good gear for the entire route. Descend via easy walkoff/down-climb to the climbers right.
If it were a full pich long, it would be a classic, but it's just too short to rave about. I guess for it's length it is great. In fact, if it were 3X as long, it would be a whole pitch! Fun none the less.
Protection
1 run of cams from the smallest you have to 2".A few larger units for a top-anchor/belay if desired. Nuts could also be used to pro the entire line.
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