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Martin Quits

5.10c, Trad, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 75 votes
FA: Jon Lonne & Dave Ohlsen, September 1976
California > Joshua Tree NP > Hidden Valley Area > Real Hidden Valley > Gateway Rock
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

This line is described as being on Gateway Rocks, but is actually an east-facing line about half-way between the Gateway and the Tumbling Rainbow formation. This short, striking fingercrack stands alone and is obvious when viewed from most points on the south or east sides of the Valley Loop trail. Approach as for routes such as Semi Tough but continue further west to the east-facing wall.

Belay in the jumbled boulders at the base of the route and cast off upwards on good locks with good gear for the entire route. Descend via easy  walkoff/down-climb to the climbers right.

If it were a full pich long, it would be a classic, but it's just too short to rave about. I guess for it's length it is great. In fact, if it were 3X as long, it would be a whole pitch! Fun none the less.

Protection

1 run of cams from the smallest you have to 2".A few larger units for a top-anchor/belay if desired. Nuts could also be used to pro the entire line.

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Martin Quits
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the crack close up
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About to follow Martin Quits.
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the crack
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Martin Quits
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Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Short but fierce in my opinion. Painful finger locks with marginal feet through the first 20 feet. The gear is good though. Apr 22, 2008
Chris M
Hailey, ID
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Bottom is pumpy and the crux- just plug and chug. Rock is painfully sharp Nov 3, 2009
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
[Hide Comment] This would have more stars if longer. Quality climbing. Dec 28, 2013
[Hide Comment] so splitta - for 25 feet. Worth doing if real hidden valley is crowded and your looking to jump on something. Good practice in flared tips jamming. Dec 10, 2018
Matt Hagny
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] Gets sun until noon in April Apr 18, 2019
Jon Hartmann
Ojai, CA
[Hide Comment] Super fun climb and easy downclimb to climbers right. Bring (2) #1 BD cams and (1) #2 BD cam for the anchor. Oct 26, 2019
Ross Goldberg
El Segundo
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Flake/plate hold before the the crux felt like it flexed on me when I pulled on it. Maybe I’m crazy or maybe I was pumped but may be worth giving a good slap before grabbing into it. Feb 17, 2020
Ela Locke
Seattle, WA
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Doesn’t seem like there’s a flake down low anymore. Must have broken off. Still feels like 10c to me. Dec 6, 2021