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Hyperion
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | D. O'Kelley & D. Davis ,1970: FFA - J. Long, K. Worrall, T. Sorenson, & R. Accomazzo, 1974 |
Page Views: | 4,811 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | Vernon Stiefel on Dec 18, 2005 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Begin at the left end of the south face and climb a low angle crack (some loose rock) that eventually becomes steeper and arches right underneath a large roof. The crux (11d), protected by a #00 TCU, black alien, or small stopper, entails committing moves to the portion of the crack where the roof begins. From here, underclings and hand / fist jams for 80 ft. lead to the anchors (sustained 5.10).
Pitch #2 (5.10) is a short traverse and consists of climbing that is comparable to the latter part of the first pitch.
Pitch #3 (11d) is initially very bouldery and deceptively difficult from the onset. Very small cams / stoppers and two fixed copperheads (solid) protect the hardest moves.
Classic route in a secluded setting.
- A two bolt direct start is possible about 20' right of the normal start and joins the route after the crux making this an easier option (5.11a).
Pitch #2 (5.10) is a short traverse and consists of climbing that is comparable to the latter part of the first pitch.
Pitch #3 (11d) is initially very bouldery and deceptively difficult from the onset. Very small cams / stoppers and two fixed copperheads (solid) protect the hardest moves.
Classic route in a secluded setting.
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