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Runaway

5.11a/b, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 74 votes
FA: Bob Gaines, Dana Adler, Yvonne Gaines, October 1997
California > Joshua Tree NP > Hidden Valley Area > Real Hidden Valley > Tumbling Rainbow Form…
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Description

This is the 10 bolt route left of Run For Your Life (5.10b). The crux is cranking past the first 2 bolts (somewhat height dependent). After that, climb up and left on sharp edges, then steep face moves and some marginal smearing gets you to the top. Good variety of well protected moves on this one.

Protection

10 bolts to 2 bolt rap anchor (80 ft.)

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Runaway
[Hide Photo] Runaway
Runaway as seen from Sentinel
[Hide Photo] Runaway as seen from Sentinel

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] More positive than most routes at the grade and probably not 5.11 if the crux is down low. None the less, a good route with fun movement that's pretty safe. Jan 13, 2006
Scotty Nelson
Boulder
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] I thought it warranted 5.11.
The cranking crux might be by the second bolt but the toughest part for me was a marginal friction move by the second to last bolt. Mar 6, 2006
Randy
Lassitude 33
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] As good or better than Run For Your Life -- continuous and excellent face climbing. Crux by 2nd bolt is 5.11, thin moves to top out. Mar 6, 2006
Phil Esra
 
[Hide Comment] Much harder to get off the ground if you're less than 5'6" with zero ape index--becomes impossible to reach the start "jug." And don't blow the third clip, or you'll deck.

Some tricky route-finding and difficult moves scattered throughout the climb, but getting past the 2nd bolt is the cruxiest crux... at least if you're short.

I found the moves less fun than those on Run for Your Life. 3 stars for this one and 4 for RFYL. Dec 1, 2013
Erik Rieger
Maine
 
[Hide Comment] Hard down low, slippery up high, sustained throughout. Felt pretty dang 5.11. Amazing position. Jan 3, 2014
Hank G
Carlsbad, Ca
 
[Hide Comment] Better than run for your life. I'm tall, with a +2, so the second bolt wasn't bad, but I felt the fantastically sustained, increasingly cryptic face climbing of the upper-section amazing and worthy of 11-. Nov 2, 2015