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> Bilbo Buttresses
Debbie Does Donuts
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 1.4 from 13 votes
Type: | Trad, 30 ft (9 m) |
FA: | Cyndie Bransford & John Thackray 12/89 |
Page Views: | 2,157 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Dec 28, 2004 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route is not bad, but it's too short to be very good. Maybe it has some merit as a way of getting to the top of the rock to establish a TR on Val De Mello? In any case, out on the far right end of the Bilbo Buttress, there is a notch between the end towers. In that nothch, on the right hand side there is a hand and fist crack, should you scramble up to it (or just scramble up it). One can scramble off or retreat from anchors above Val De Mello.
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