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Tiptoe to Topanga

5.10b, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 21 votes
FA: (TR) Bob Gaines & Patty Kline, March 1998, FL: unknown
California > Joshua Tree NP > Central Joshua… > Sheep Pass Area > Hall of Horrors… > King Dome > King Dome - E Face
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

This climb is in between Arturo's Special (5.8) and Mission Impossible (5.11b). It's good 'ol dome home Josh friction bumps, gets sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon and is a great lead.

Protection

Seven bolts, two bolt anchor/rap (a stick clip is handy to clip the first bolt).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tiptoe to Topanga (Black)
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Tiptoe Through the Tulips (Red)
[Hide Photo] Tiptoe to Topanga (Black) Tiptoe Through the Tulips (Red)
Tiptoe to Topanga
[Hide Photo] Tiptoe to Topanga
Tiptoe to Topanga
[Hide Photo] Tiptoe to Topanga

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

C Miller
CA
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] A well protected addition to the area that features continuous climbing for most of it's length. Gear to 1 inch might be desirable to reach the first bolt.

The rock quality is on the crunchy side, but more traffic will help to clean it up. One star out of five - maybe two stars if it cleans up more. Feb 19, 2005
Murf
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] Found myself tending to the left of the bolts on occasion. Maybe I'm not tuned up on JT friction, but I thought this was more like 10b/c (much like Chris). Oct 5, 2009
[Hide Comment] I agree 10b/c. Slopers , good footwork required. Well bolted but still feels heady due to the insecure climbing on slabby holds. Dec 6, 2014
Jim Dover
Idyllwild, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Led this today and have to say that it was a real attention getter. Placed a good .75 in shitty rock/crack--don't. The whole flake is so crunchy and hollow sounding--but it made me feel a little better getting to the first stance--which wasn't really that bad once committed to. Anyway, thought is was 10b/c until TR afterward--feels like 10a now. Still really fun and secure-ish feeling. Dec 7, 2015
Todd Gordon
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] i love this climb....i am really surprised that is isn't more popular. It really is a mega-cool route. Maybe someday it will get the respect and love that is so richly deserves. (good job, Jim Dover, on the lead....).. Dec 7, 2015
Lori Milas
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] I've had my eye on this wall (King Dome) for several years and finally got out to climb there. Tiptoe to Topanga draws because it is a beautiful line on a sheer uncluttered wall... it is one long, relentless route that doesn't ease up... and it's a lot of fun. The start is a little tricky, in fact I sprained my knee on it. When I came back 6 weeks later I was more careful, and it was very doable. Tiptoe has thin moves on great rock, occasional spots for brief rests before soldiering on. A wonderful route to work out technique and endurance. Mar 21, 2022
Jay Goodwin
OR-NV-CA
[Hide Comment] On TR, it felt like 10a; sustained 10a but no move harder than 10a Feb 25, 2024