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Routes in Medicine Bow
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Granite Dance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Peace Pipe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Murf,AJ 3/2004 |
| Page Views: | 5,185 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Murf on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Temporary Closure in effect from April 3 to June 15, 2024
Details
Temporary Closure for Nesting Raptors
Date Posted: 4/4/2024
Due to the presence of nesting raptors, the following rock climbing areas are temporarily closed: Slatanic Area, Rattlesnake Buttress, Margaret Thatcher Spire, The Stepping Stones, The Bulkhead, The Dunce Cap, and Commissioner’s Buttress.
Date Posted: 4/4/2024
Due to the presence of nesting raptors, the following rock climbing areas are temporarily closed: Slatanic Area, Rattlesnake Buttress, Margaret Thatcher Spire, The Stepping Stones, The Bulkhead, The Dunce Cap, and Commissioner’s Buttress.
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Blackfeet warriors suspended themselves from cords via skewers thrust through their chests. They then flung themselves about until the skewers ripped through their chests. This was the Sun Dance. For the Granite Dance, you'll suspend yourself by your hands and feet thrust into a just off horizontal roof. As you heave yourself up you'll pray that the granite doesn't rip from roof.
Splitter crack through lighter rock characterizes the roof. The roof crack is actually composed of a large flake, which has fracture lines on the attached side. While it seems solid, there is a risk of the multi-ton flake pulling away.
Belay from a shelf high on the right side of the Medicine Bow, left of the roof. Climb left of the roof on exfoliating edges. Protect inside a cave at the base, and then launch into the roof. Big powerful hands lead to a long move into thin jams. Surpass the roof to the secure crack above.
After proving your warrior spirit, amble over to the Peace Pipe and take a burn on that....
Splitter crack through lighter rock characterizes the roof. The roof crack is actually composed of a large flake, which has fracture lines on the attached side. While it seems solid, there is a risk of the multi-ton flake pulling away.
Belay from a shelf high on the right side of the Medicine Bow, left of the roof. Climb left of the roof on exfoliating edges. Protect inside a cave at the base, and then launch into the roof. Big powerful hands lead to a long move into thin jams. Surpass the roof to the secure crack above.
After proving your warrior spirit, amble over to the Peace Pipe and take a burn on that....
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