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Catch a Falling Star

5.8, Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 147 votes
FA: Herb Laeger and Dennis Knuckles, March 1978
California > Joshua Tree NP > Central Joshua… > Sheep Pass Area > Cap Rock Area > Cap Rock > Cap Rock - Southeast…
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

This fun pitch is on the sunny, south side of Cap Rock. Climb an obvious right-angling crack until it peters out, then make a 5.8 face move past a bolt to the top. Belay from the communal anchor.

Protection

Gear to 2 inches, one bolt (3/8"), bolted anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

"Catch a Falling Star". Takes the upper diagonal crack.<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] "Catch a Falling Star". Takes the upper diagonal crack. Photo by Blitzo.
Ryan leading Catch A Falling Star, with Joan.  Taken from atop Cosmic Crack of Some Intrigue.  May 2015.
[Hide Photo] Ryan leading Catch A Falling Star, with Joan. Taken from atop Cosmic Crack of Some Intrigue. May 2015.
Morning solo. Photo by Jessica Olson
[Hide Photo] Morning solo. Photo by Jessica Olson
My Dad looking super cool for his 50th birthday
[Hide Photo] My Dad looking super cool for his 50th birthday
Will halfway across the traverse.  Dec 2015.
[Hide Photo] Will halfway across the traverse. Dec 2015.
CAFS!!!
[Hide Photo] CAFS!!!
Anne, following "Catch a Falling Star."
[Hide Photo] Anne, following "Catch a Falling Star."
Catch a Falling Star
[Hide Photo] Catch a Falling Star
Fun! JTree's version of On The Lamb in Tuolumne. Joe Scott turns the corner on Catch a Falling Star 5.8
[Hide Photo] Fun! JTree's version of On The Lamb in Tuolumne. Joe Scott turns the corner on Catch a Falling Star 5.8
Gary Molzan leading Catch a Falling Star, February 1986!
[Hide Photo] Gary Molzan leading Catch a Falling Star, February 1986!
Jon Freriks having fun 2/20/10
[Hide Photo] Jon Freriks having fun 2/20/10
The rock was all ours on this cold and windy December day in 2004.
[Hide Photo] The rock was all ours on this cold and windy December day in 2004.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

C Miller
CA
  5.8
[Hide Comment] A nice mix of crack and face climbing with a short walk from the car. Two stars out of five.

Name comes from the first ascent when Herb slipped off unexpectedly. Dec 11, 2003
[Hide Comment] A great route that deserves all the stars it can get. Jan 21, 2004
[Hide Comment] Gear can be a bit trick for the beginning leader. But the easy stances make ample opportunity to fiddle around and get the pro set right! Great climb to learn how to slot pro in behind features. Jan 27, 2004
Adam Stackhouse

  5.8+
[Hide Comment] This is a fun traversing route starting out with a few feet of face then to the crack and then to face. Continuing out and up from the finish bolt seemed a bit harder than continuing right to a second bolt then up. The crack can be a bit shallow in its acceptance of pro. Jan 28, 2006
Taryn
San Diego, CA
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Bring tri-cams on lead....seriously! For real. Come on...you know you want to. Feb 17, 2006
Blitzo
 
[Hide Comment] I'll give it two, Woody! Sep 29, 2006
armand rollice
rancho cucamonga
 
[Hide Comment] YEs I agree tricams worked great for me. Very fun route to do at sunset. Feb 27, 2008
Matt Hagny
  5.8
[Hide Comment] 5.8 seems about right. Similar to Fingertip Traverse of J-tree, but with much better gear. But not bomber gear. For those climbing near their limit or not well-versed in cam placement , I'd suggest doubling up the gear where the placements are shallow or imperfect. Oct 24, 2018
Brandon Marshal
Victor, ID
  5.8
[Hide Comment] An awesome footwork intensive climb that makes a perfect warm up. Send an experienced leader up there that can accurately assess cams in a generally flaring crack, but there are more than enough bomber placements to keep the whole route safe. No need to bail right at the slab, I thought it was easier than it appeared from below with a pretty steep fall. I moved left and up from the first bolt. This climb is four stars in every way and soft for a Josh 5.8 crack. Feb 6, 2024
Chayten A
Los Angeles
 
[Hide Comment] You can do this route on TR without swinging 10 ft by placing a tricam in the middle of the crack Nov 10, 2024