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Catch a Falling Star
5.8,
Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 2.8 from 147
votes
FA: Herb Laeger and Dennis Knuckles, March 1978
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Central Joshua…
> Sheep Pass Area
> Cap Rock Area
> Cap Rock
> Cap Rock - Southeast…
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that: 1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor. 2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
This fun pitch is on the sunny, south side of Cap Rock. Climb an obvious right-angling crack until it peters out, then make a 5.8 face move past a bolt to the top. Belay from the communal anchor.
[Hide Comment] Gear can be a bit trick for the beginning leader. But the easy stances make ample opportunity to fiddle around and get the pro set right! Great climb to learn how to slot pro in behind features.
Jan 27, 2004
[Hide Comment] This is a fun traversing route starting out with a few feet of face then to the crack and then to face. Continuing out and up from the finish bolt seemed a bit harder than continuing right to a second bolt then up. The crack can be a bit shallow in its acceptance of pro.
Jan 28, 2006
[Hide Comment] 5.8 seems about right. Similar to Fingertip Traverse of J-tree, but with much better gear. But not bomber gear. For those climbing near their limit or not well-versed in cam placement , I'd suggest doubling up the gear where the placements are shallow or imperfect.
Oct 24, 2018
[Hide Comment] An awesome footwork intensive climb that makes a perfect warm up. Send an experienced leader up there that can accurately assess cams in a generally flaring crack, but there are more than enough bomber placements to keep the whole route safe. No need to bail right at the slab, I thought it was easier than it appeared from below with a pretty steep fall. I moved left and up from the first bolt. This climb is four stars in every way and soft for a Josh 5.8 crack.
Feb 6, 2024
CA
Name comes from the first ascent when Herb slipped off unexpectedly. Dec 11, 2003
San Diego, CA
rancho cucamonga
Victor, ID
Los Angeles