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Tax Man
5.10a,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 3.5 from 485
votes
FA: Tim Powell and Dan Ahlborn, April 1976
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Lost Horse Area
> Lost Horse Rdsi…
> IRS Wall
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that: 1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor. 2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
Definitely one of the most fun and exciting 5.10 pitches in the park. After a cruxy face start, the steep and excellent crack provides solid gear all the way up and a pump that makes reaching the bolted anchor a good challenge. With its excellent pro and steepness, this route makes a good first 5.10 lead.
[Hide Comment] Eats stoppers, will take cams in small sizes. This line can take a #2 or #3 camalot, but it's not crux pro and not necessary. If you can beat the first 4 meters of climbing, you have it made. Pro it up down low and then go for it.
Apr 15, 2003
[Hide Comment] J tree classic. Cruxy early, and as all cracks are, size dependant. For big paws (like myself), the start is definately no 10a, just tips. Nonetheless, a beautiful clean crack surrounded by nice patina, with great gear the whole way. 5.10 a/b+.
Aug 16, 2007
[Hide Comment] Well worth the approach (hey, we're in JTree here). Beautiful fingerlocks up this steep and classically J-Tree-esque line. Found a BD #4 useful on the upper slot.
Oct 26, 2009
[Hide Comment] Stiff crux (10b/c?) down low then 5.9 the rest of the way. I have sausage fingers and big feet so it was easiest to lieback the crux.
Jan 17, 2012
[Hide Comment] One of the best 10a pitches I've done. Not a good first 5.10 lead but certainly easily protectable. Was a bit stiff onsight but much easier on tr. A solid pinky jam down low and a sinker hand jam with barely enough room for a gold camalot above it were two very memorable parts.
Mar 31, 2012
[Hide Comment] Very well protected. If you like fingers and can handle insecure feet, the low crux may feel easier. The midsection felt the most challenging to me, which given all the different comments above shows the incredible diversity of climbing and style required in this 100' pitch. Jump on this route - you won't be disappointed!
Dec 4, 2015
[Hide Comment] I first climbed this last year after 6 months into trad climbing and it felt extremely hard and scary. I climbed it again today, after a year of trad climbing and many other 5.9/10- at Joshua tree, and it felt very good, hard to believe I got the red point!
It is definitely one of the harder 10- I have tried. So my recommendation is that before jumping on this, you get a taste of other 10- in the park! It will make this climb more enjoyable :-) reading the comments above about gear ripping out etc, you can place a .3 from good feet to protect the initial moves, then you get a really good .3 again below a good finger jam right before the crux. You can also back this up at the top with a smallish nut. With all this solid gear, you should be safe to pull the amazing crux !
Apr 27, 2024
Avg: 3.5 from 485
votes
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Around Boulder, CO
CA
Bouldery down low with a definite crux and it remains steep and continuous for the duration. Three stars out of five. Nov 10, 2003
Slipped off leading this, only to slip of again on the same move on TR. Feet seem to be the key.
Super fun climbing. Nov 1, 2006
Hailey, ID
Boulder, CO
Olympia, WA
Seattle, WA
Phoenix, AZ
San Diego
I climbed it again today, after a year of trad climbing and many other 5.9/10- at Joshua tree, and it felt very good, hard to believe I got the red point!
It is definitely one of the harder 10- I have tried.
So my recommendation is that before jumping on this, you get a taste of other 10- in the park! It will make this climb more enjoyable :-) reading the comments above about gear ripping out etc, you can place a .3 from good feet to protect the initial moves, then you get a really good .3 again below a good finger jam right before the crux. You can also back this up at the top with a smallish nut. With all this solid gear, you should be safe to pull the amazing crux ! Apr 27, 2024