All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Central Joshua… > Echo Rock Area > Rusty Wall

O'Kelley's Crack

Name: O'Kelley's Crack
Rating: 3.7

5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British

Routes in Rusty Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Cameltoe Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V0 4
	Finish What You Started T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	O'Kelley's Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Riddles in the Dark (aka Ok Crank) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Slapshot T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Wangerbanger T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

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Type:	Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA:	Tobin Sorenson, Jim Wilson, Dean Fidelman & Gary Ayres, March 1975
Page Views:	36,591 total · 132/month
Shared By:	Josh Beck on Mar 31, 2002
Admins:	Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

A gnarly 5.11 boulder problem start (cupped hands or fists and awkward tight fingers, can be aided) leads to stellar 5.10 hands up a gorgeous vertical wall. This route is as good as the best desert splitters and is on some of the best rock in jtree. In my opinion, the best route in the park by a signifigant margin and one of the best routes anywhere.

Protection

Take a good selection of .75" - 3" cams, mostly in the hand size. A big piece or two might be nice to protect two short offwidth sections but aren't totally necessary. At least one thin piece (TCU) if not a couple are needed to protect the gnarly boulder problem start.